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Well, since putting the Full Force 180/0 single shots and TS chip, the truck is running great...
...except for the fact that the clutch can't take the power.
I've only put about 100 miles on her since finishing up the injectors.
Lower gears seem fine but if I lay into it in the 2 upper gears, (like a passing situation), at about 23-2400 the clutch slips and rpm goes to about 29-3000.
I let off as soon as it happens and it took me a couple of time to figure out what was going on.
It does this on the "daily" setting.
Spoke with Full Force today about the chip settings and I'm going to have to keep this in the "heavy tow" setting and baby her until I can get a clutch to hold her.
I drive her a few times a week around town and occasionally tow up to 10k lbs.
Need recommendations on a clutch that isn't going to break the bank.
I still need to recover from the injectors upgrade.
I had a South Bend 1939OHD installed a year or so ago and it has performed great. Look at the surface material of the OHD vs the standard, it is obvious.
Sometimes you have to pay to play, but if you choose wrong you will be doing it again soon.
I bought mine from Summit Racing with free shipping $597, but that had $40 in taxes because it shipped from GA.
Got a SB 1944-6OK (400HP/800TQ) on my truck with 160/80s, and mine is slipping. Thought it'd be enough to hold an 80 Daily tune, and it is if I do my typical drive style. Once the turbo starts singing and boost gets up, it's all over and the clutch gives way.
I'd drive like there's an egg on your accelerator and recover from the injectors to get a higher rated clutch. The fact I'm already looking at clutches with only a year and a half on mine makes my wallet ache, but as Sous said, you gotta pay to play.
What clutch do you have now and what is the age and condition of it?
I bought the truck in 2004 with 94k miles.
There was a receipt in the glove box for clutch replacement at just over 90k miles
I believe it was just a standard replacement/OEM rated. The truck was bone stock when I bought it so I have no reason to believe otherwise.
I had a South Bend 1939OHD installed a year or so ago and it has performed great. Look at the surface material of the OHD vs the standard, it is obvious.
Sometimes you have to pay to play, but if you choose wrong you will be doing it again soon.
I bought mine from Summit Racing with free shipping $597, but that had $40 in taxes because it shipped from GA.
Sous,
How heavy do you tow?
According to your sig, you haven't changed injectors, correct?
I called South Bend Clutch.
They think I'll blow through the 1939OHD and said the 1939CB "might" hold.
They recommend going with a SFDD3250-6-ORG. Dual disk. $1200!!!
Kinda tough to swallow that!
Drain tube and bronze bushing are a good idea for whatever clutch you do. I used a bushing for an older ford truck with mine but did not know about the drain tube so I will do that if I ever have the trans out again.
Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
Because I know how you guys like pictures!!
The first picture is an oillite bronze bushing, I Kevlar bushing, and the stock pilot bearing.
The second picture is the SSJ valley drain redirect mod. This piece of tubing directs fluids from the valley directly to the drain at the bottom of the block/bell housing. This prevents contamination of the clutch in the event you have a fuel or oil leak in the valley.
They recommend going with a SFDD3250-6-ORG. Dual disk. $1200!!!
Kinda tough to swallow that!
While I agree the dual disk is good I always find it hard to believe it is what everybody needs once they upgrade injectors.Edit It just seems to be that way. maybe it is? I don't know.
Look at the difference between the material on a "normal" SB clutch and an "heavy duty" SB clutch. Not sure what kind of numbers you are putting down, but when I bought my 1939 OHD I had 400 HP as my maximum. The 1939 OHD is rated to 425 HP and 900 TQ.
The clutch you listed (which SB recommends) is rated at 550 HP... I don't know about that and don't think that most applications call for a DD clutch.
The truck that Brandon posted is my truck. SkySkiJason is the one who installed the clutch, bushing and copper tube. We tipped him nicely for his work, which was top notch especially since he fit us in between projects.
Got a SB 1944-6OK (400HP/800TQ) on my truck with 160/80s, and mine is slipping. Thought it'd be enough to hold an 80 Daily tune, and it is if I do my typical drive style. Once the turbo starts singing and boost gets up, it's all over and the clutch gives way.
I'd drive like there's an egg on your accelerator and recover from the injectors to get a higher rated clutch. The fact I'm already looking at clutches with only a year and a half on mine makes my wallet ache, but as Sous said, you gotta pay to play.
I have this clutch as well. Curious; Have you ever slipped it or do you know if you glazed it? (revving the engine too much on take-off will do this) Mine holds up great but they are very explicit in their paperwork that you cannot "slip" the clutch. (edit: checked owner's manual and there is no deglaze procedure)
Mine is very clunky to drive sometimes and does not seem to be glazed. Best way I have found to avoid slipping it is to get going with idle only, no throttle then give it more once engaged. I would not buy this clutch again, no one but me can drive this truck and that is a pain in my *** sometimes. That being said, it seems to hold up well to power.
Maybe I am just ignorant on the options and subject, but I am 100% happy with the SB 1939OHD. SB does not recommend slipping the clutch, so I don't... I does well backing and pulling my 12K lbs 5th wheel, and that is all I can ask of it.
Here is what Full Force says about the injectors you have:
Stage 1 180cc Stock Nozzle Set
350hp The number 1 selling injectors we have.
Tow anything with these injectors they just don't care.
Also confused on what South Bend says you need.
Originally Posted by roozterdvx
I called South Bend Clutch.
They think I'll blow through the 1939OHD and said the 1939CB "might" hold.
They recommend going with a SFDD3250-6-ORG. Dual disk. $1200!!!
Kinda tough to swallow that!
1939OHD - 13" Full Organic clutch kit w/o flywheel 425 hp 900 ft-lbs trq 20k towing capacity. Works on OEM Flywheel Only!!
If I am reading this correctly your truck is capable of 350 horsepower but the 425 horsepower clutch is not good enough and the 450 "might" do it? Something is not adding up to me......
Maybe he was in touch with a salesperson instead of a tech. When I called about a clutch replacement I told them "400 HP would be the maximum power (once I upgrade injectors) at the crank" and that I would be "towing a 12K lbs 5th wheel" they recommended the 1939OHD. It has been a solid performer.
Here is what Full Force says about the injectors you have:
Also confused on what South Bend says you need.
If I am reading this correctly your truck is capable of 350 horsepower but the 425 horsepower clutch is not good enough and the 450 "might" do it? Something is not adding up to me......
That does sound odd, but really depends what the intended final use is and how that conversation went... Not pointing any fingers or calling anyone out, but a lot of folks on this board are outright knuckleheads.
I had called South Bend at one point to confirm how the HP ratings work and was told that what they advertise is wheel horsepower. So if it's rated at 400 HP/800 TQ/15K lbs that means you can tow that much weight, in addition to the truck, with that much WHP. That does not mean that it will hold up to repeated launches and it doesn't mean it's going to hold up to consistent drag racing/burnouts/other juvenile **** at that WHP.
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