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I am currently running a Valair clutch and tow pretty heavy (12K 5th wheel). The clutch has not caused or had any issues but it is noisy in neutral. I will probably go with the SB 1939 OHD disc next time. I have a couple of friends who have them and they are happy with them. One guy has a trailer with a skid steer hooked to it 90% of the time.
If it were not for the noise I would be very happy with the Valair.
Good luck!
Any clue what you have? they make several different single disc clutches of different materials and 3 dual disks for the 7.3 zf6 combo.
NMU70241-HD is the model # that I used. It is rated at 400HP and 800 lbs of torque. It has six smaller stiffer springs rather than the 3 larger springs like the OEM clutch has. My OEM clutch puked one of the springs which prompted me to get a different design. They said that the 6 spring was designed to eliminate that failure point the OEM disc had. I have a 80HP tune on my chip and usually tow in a 40HP tune and neither has caused the clutch to slip. The OEM clutch with 120K miles on it would not hold any of the increased HP tunes on my chip so I was ready for a new clutch before it broke anyway.
Bill Kay...noise goes away when depressing clutch? Mines' doing that now(ac delco clutch w/napa to bearing). Think its the to giving away..I got a complete LUK kit with jasons bearing, ready for install
Timmy, Yes it goes away when the pedal is depressed.
I PM’ed Jason when he first showed that XL Oilite bearing and got his #. I need to go ahead and get one from him because I think you are right. My clutch only has about 25K so it may be a minute.
I spoke with Full Force about clutch options and what SBC is recommending. They think SBC's recommendation for the dual disk is based on towing a 10k boat, (more specifically, pulling up a ramp and being able to slip if needed without being jerky and possibly breaking the tires loose on a slippery surface). The larger single disk may be too grabby and can also be an issue backing up into my driveway which is a slight incline, (approx. 12% grade?... 4ft elevation rise in 50ft driveway)
Full Force is putting power estimates at around 350-380, (cautiously of course, so I'd assume closer to the 350 mark).
The person I spoke with, (and who also helped me diagnose my issues with a no start situation after injectors install), says he has the SBC dual disk in his personal truck and says it's as smooth and easy to drive as an OEM clutch and he is a much higher power level than me).
He is reluctant to stray from SBC's opinion as he does not want to lead me in a direction differing from a manufacturer.
I can understand that because if there is a problem later on, I come back with "you told me it would work, blah blah blah".
Next, I called Valair to discuss options and they recommend their NMU70241-HD full organic, 13" single disk.
I told him what I was being steered toward from SBC and they think the single disk shouldn't be a problem at what they're estimating for power levels.
They also have dual disk kits and he said he doesn't see the need to go to a clutch rated that high even with my concerns about towing on a ramp or backing up into the driveway.
I was just about ready to break out my credit card, (against my better judgement), and not I'm more confused with 2 different manufacturers have such differing recommendations...
Maybe I should call SBC again and hopefully get a different person than last time....?
Opinions are like *********s and "grabby" to one person might be "smooth as butter" to another.
My SBC is grabby. I dislike it. Trying to maneuver in reverse at low speeds is a headache sometimes, though it has gotten better with age (or with oil leaking onto it?). I also have an ********* so I meet the criteria of offering an opinion.
Your best bet is probably to just buy one and see how you like it. These trucks are not a poor mans sport. I have in the back of my head at all times that "this thing is likely going to cost me $2-3k this month to fix" because it always seems to be broken.
I tow a 12K lbs 5th wheel just fine with the 1939OHD.
I back the 12K lbs 5th wheel just fine with the 1939OHD.
My driveway also has an incline that the trailer goes up when backing.
The clutch engagement is smooth like butta and I know I made the right choice. Do as you wish because it is your money, truck and time. I just know that I have zero complaints about the SB clutch I selected.
I should also clarify that when I say low speeds, I mean situations such as parallel parking (city dweller) where you are engaging the clutch for milliseconds at a time. When you're trying to just barely move the truck into a tight spot (not full on engagement) I find it very clunky.
I have the South Bend 1944-6OFEK which is their highest priced single disc and it is rated at 475hp and 1000 ft lb. It is very smooth for a single disc and has held up great for over a year now. I haven't tried it with my current setup with the 180/80 injectors yet but I will have my truck back on the road next week, I think it will do just fine.
Enough is enough...
I'll be going with a single disk organic.
I spoke with a different person at SBC yesterday. He asked about modifications and estimated power level then how the truck is used.
His answer was the 1944-60K-HD organic.
I asked about the 1939OHD and he said the difference is the 1944 comes with a new flywheel but I could use the 1939 and have my flywheel machined.
One key difference in our conversation is that he actually asked if the chip had any towing programs.
He said as long as I use the tow settings when loaded I'll be ok on either of those clutches. If I forget any use the high tunes, I could smoke the clutch.
Enough is enough...
I'll be going with a single disk organic.
I spoke with a different person at SBC yesterday. He asked about modifications and estimated power level then how the truck is used.
His answer was the 1944-60K-HD organic.
I asked about the 1939OHD and he said the difference is the 1944 comes with a new flywheel but I could use the 1939 and have my flywheel machined.
One key difference in our conversation is that he actually asked if the chip had any towing programs.
He said as long as I use the tow settings when loaded I'll be ok on either of those clutches. If I forget any use the high tunes, I could smoke the clutch.
I don't think that will be enough, that clutch is only rated for 350 HP and 750 ft lb and you will be in the 375 HP range with those injectors.
There was a redesign of some of the clutches a couple years ago and not all of the information out on the web has been updated. I ran into this when I ordered my 1939-OHD from Summit, but received the correct clutch.
There was a redesign of some of the clutches a couple years ago and not all of the information out on the web has been updated. I ran into this when I ordered my 1939-OHD from Summit, but received the correct clutch.
That might be alright then, but if it was me I would go with the 1944-6 OFEK for the extra capacity, there is no reason not to its only $100 more.
I'm going to call around after the weekend to check on having the flywheel surfaced and how much it'll cost.
Summit currently has the 1939OHD for $560, (plus flywheel resurface $???).
The 1944-6OK-HD is $825 and includes the flywheel.
I do like that the 1939 bolts to OEM flywheel. The 1944 has to use it's own flywheel.
An advantage to the 1944 is if there's a problem resulting in a warranty claim, the excuse of flywheel not being resurfaced properly can't be used...
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