When I got the 450 on the road I found out the clutch was slipping while hauling tractors around. I had to use 4th up hills as it would slip on OD around 2000 rpm. Once I took it apart it was worn down to the rivets. I wonder if the clutch that came in the truck is just worn out or was abused before you got it?

If you can pull the trans and look at it before you order parts you may find that it is worn out, glazed, or oil soaked causing the problem. The first 2 clutches you listed may be ok for you. I guess what I am trying to say is a slipping "good" stock clutch is a different story than a slipping worn out clutch. You really do not know what you have until you see it.

This what I was towing when I found out the clutch that came in my truck was worn out.

 

I told South Bend that I had Full Force 180 injectors with stock nozzles and a 6 position TS chip. They asked about upgraded turbo. I told them it's the stock turbo with 6637 filter. I told them 4" DP with 4" straight exhaust.
I told him I was looking at the 1939OHD and he said I'd blow through the clutch. At that point he recommended a $1200 dual disk and I about crapped my shorts.
I told him that's a hefty price tag and he then said I "might" be able to get away with the 1939CB.

Maybe he's trying to upsell me a clutch but I called them after reading to call South Bend on so many other threads.
I'm looking for help and opinions as I don't want to make a mistake and buy something I don't need nor do I want to buy something that is going to fail in short order.

I did not "tell" South Bend how much power I'm making as I truly don't know.
The injectors are rated at "350" is that with or without aggressive tunes on the chip? The "daily tune" is supposedly around 80hp but is that on stock injectors?... Do the 180's add anything on their own?

 

"Knucklehead" I do not consider myself to be so I hope you're not directing that toward me...

Life has "gotten in the way" for me for a while and I don't have disposable income to just throw at my truck, but I still have my toy that I built from the ground up in the garage.




331cid SBF with a TH400 trans and an 80mm BW turbo.
Ran 5.83 @128 in the 1/8 off the footbrake and blowing through the convertor on the top end.
I assembled the engine, (machine work not by me), Built the transmission and adapted it with an Ultra bell, narrowed the rear, built and welded the roll cage, fabricated all the piping for the turbo and liquid intercooler, bodywork and paint by yours truly, and I'm the one on the keyboard tuning the fuel injection.

I also still currently work the keyboard tuning my BIL's car, (Mustang with 88mm turbo, Big Stuff 3 injection, Powerglide, running 5.30's @ 136) and working on a buddy's big block Monte Carlo with a Procharger F1X.

I make no claims about how much power the truck makes or doesn't make.
I've been trying to see what everybody else is using that have similar modifications done as what I have done.

(those pics were taken right before pulling her onto the dyno and within 5 pulls that day, she was cranking out 912hp to the wheels blowing through the convertor)

 

I wasn't directing that at anyone, as I not-so-clearly pointed out. Merely stating that their HP ratings seem to be under certain conditions.

Nice car. My big waste of money, aside from this Ford, is the couple of Ducati motorcycles parked in my garage. Never ending maintenance and broken ****, but boy they are fun.

 

Love some of those Ducs. The 748 and 996 are just damn sexy.
V-twin sport bikes have a special place in my heart.
I was at an NMRA race way back when and a local Suzuki dealer had a display booth. They brought out the GSXR's and the V-twin TL's
I wanted the TL1000R as soon as I saw it. Years later I had the chance to buy one and I kept that bike until I got too old to enjoy it the way it should be ridden...

 

I don't slip my clutch, if there's one thing I hate hearing drivers do it is revving up to 2500-3000 RPM to start in first on flat ground. I let out on all clutches the same, with maybe a quarter to half second between first catch to fully engaged. I pretty much drive my 7.3 like I do the road tractors at work.

If my clutch were glazed I'd expect to have the slipping issue in near all gears, not just on the top end. In fact a couple months ago I had replaced a clucth in an L8000, two days later I towed it in because the guy smoked it. We managed to get it to catch again after lugging it a bit (plenty of life on the pads) and the truck has been running fine since.

 

I called Full Force on the way home from work.
I specifically asked about the 350hp rating on their 180/0 injectors and if that was not accounting for a tune on the chip, just the added fuel from the injection event.
They are understandably reluctant to give out numbers as every truck and combination of mods is different, but he said the numbers shouldn't be too far off from that with the mods I've done, (free flowing exhaust and unrestricted filter). He thinks the "daily" tune on the chip could have me hovering at or close to 400 with the 30 psi boost gauge pegged.

For the time being, I'll keep it on the heavy tow setting and baby her until I can get some put aside. I can't stand using a credit card unless there is absolutely no other choice.
Until then, I'll keep researching what others have used and had experience with...

 

Brandon, your sig says LUK 07-155 Clutch and your mods are more than I have done to mine.
How's the LUK clutch holding up?

 

One of the things that bothers me is that I just recently finished the injector install and a barrage of "diagnostics" for a no start which turned out to be due to a bad/shorted IPR pigtail.
I pulled the IPR to swap it out more than once, pulled fuel bowl, ready to change out the HPOP, performed a dead head test on the pump before pulling it, etc.
All of this dumped fuel and oil into the valley and I soaked up what I could and then used brake cleaner followed by more rags to soak up the mess.
I keep reading about the possibility of everything going down the valley drain and the possibility of getting to the clutch.
Leaves me wondering if I caused premature clutch failure...

 

What size tube and fitting for the valley drain tube mod?

 

I could not tell you what size tube was installed from the valley drain to the bottom of the case. Jason did us a favor and installed it without me even knowing about it. He said that he does this to all of the ZF6 trucks he rebuilds because oil/fuel contamination on the clutch is a common problem. Installing the tube gets 99% of the contaminants routed away from the friction surfaces.

I thought it was a brilliant idea and we were/are very grateful for his time and effort.

 

Here is a list of some of the things I have done to the truck over time to paint the whole picture. The mileage is calculated from my last fuel fillup so actually have about 500 more than it says. Clutch seems ok to me. Actually has just over 33000 miles on it. Truck had a hydra with the canned PHP tunes from day 1 usually the 60 or 80 setting on stock injectors. I try not to slip it taking off or backing up. When shifting I make sure it is in gear and my foot is off the clutch pedal before I push the skinny pedal to the floor. so yes I use my truck hard but try not to beat on it if that makes sense.

 

Check out Valair clutches too..ran that for 6yrs/150k..towing 10k occasionly...T.O. bearing wiped it out