So a question if I may... I've tried searching to some extent but it's hard to weed out the threads that don't have much relevance to the question on my mind.

When considering an EGR cooler swap vs a delete, some of the research I have done tells me that leaving the cooler in place is maybe the better option for a towing vehicle- lower combustion temps and better fuel efficiency are some of the claims. I guess it makes sense a little bit, but the delete is such a common mod on these I was curious if anyone has some real world experience they can share one way or the other on this question.
My other question is about coolant- I found or read something that recommended against using ELC with the EGR cooler retained, claiming that the high temps in the cooler will cook the coolant and plug the oil cooler and/or EGR quicker than with the Ford gold coolant, though I've found very little other evidence of this being true.
I will be diving head first into my new to me 6.0 very soon and want to get it fixed up right so it won't be a worry anymore, so I'm looking for advice on the best route to go. Truck will have some DD duty and light to moderate towing - 28ft bumper pull TT with a bed full of dirt bikes will be the main towing duty. My current plan is- replace EGR and oil coolers due to spread out deltas, head studs, coolant filter, new FICM due to low cold start voltage, and maybe an Edge CTS Pro for monitoring with a tune or two if I can swing it.

 

I have had great success with the BulletProofDiesel EGR cooler.

As far as Ford Gold coolant vs an EC-1 rated ELC coolant, there is NO QUESTION that the EC-1 rated ELC coolant is the way to go. There are numerous formulations for ELC coolant (there is even a Dexcool ELC coolant) so look for the CAT EC-1 rating. I can't imagine anyone suggestion that Ford Gold is MORE robust than the proper ELC,

I have taken the position that the Ford Gold can work w/ proper maintenance (50-60k change intervals) and assuming you don't expose it to excessive temps or combustion gasses. A lot of people agree, but I would have to say that even more on the forums disagree. There have been SO MANY cases of gelled Ford Gold, it is easy to be distrusting of it!

 

Well said Mark.

The BPD coolers as mentioned are pretty darn heavy duty, flow way better than the stock unit and are darn near bomb proof.

I did notice that my turbo (stock one) spooled quicker when the up pipe feeding the cooler was replaced with a straight pipe. As it stands now I have a BPD cooler (visual) but it is plugged in the back and the up pipe is still a straight shot.

I saw a quote around here the egr cooler's recirculated gases "is like cigarette smoke for your lungs." Funny but if you think about it, definitely true

 

 

Just be careful if decide go delete, that the EGR Cooler also is a structural support member and there are only a few deletes out there that handle the support role well. I think one of the best is the way Anthony at Super Duty Service does his -- extremely clean...

 

Kind of, but not quite the same. Smoking doesn't really have an upside, EGR does at least serve a purpose. The exhaust charge is used as an inert gas to reduce combustion temperature by restricting the amount of oxygen in the fluid mixture via replacement, the primary goal is to reduce NOx formation. The secondary impact is that lower combustion temps results in higher amounts of particulate matter due to a less complete burn. EGR delete ultimately means higher peak combustion temps. Probably not an issue on the normal range of operation, but it's a factual statement still. The EGR cooler doesn't cool exhaust gas just to reduce cylinder temps during the intake stroke, it also increases the density of the charge (same way a CAC works for the air charge).

Over the long term a functioning EGR system is not detrimental to the engine......

..... but the thing gets so packed up with exhaust soot, CCV oil, coolant, carbon, etc that it rarely functions at it's peak. So odds with a dirty valve you're probably already seeing the higher combustion temps, paired with poor flow control. If everything works right it's fine, but the only clean EGR valves I've seen were steamed by a blown cooler.

 

 

Relative to EGR systems clogging intakes, I had my intake manifold cleaned by a machine shop. They initially said they'd put it thru the parts washer for $30. After that, it was still nasty with EGR soot, and to get it clean they had to send it to a steam cleaner because it was beyond their capability. It was all EGR gunk clogging it up.

If you don't have to worry about emissions, delete it. Save the parts in case you ever need to move to a state where it matters .

 

Combustion temps is what are lowered with the EGR in place, not EGT. Just for clarity's sake.

I was aware of the issue but hadn't heard of that company yet. I'll look into it, thanks for the info!

 

 

 

 

I have a similar concern as the OP (so this is a only a mild hijack), but in my E-series RV that is always working hard I don't want my planned delete (by welding plugs) to unduly increase internal temps. My oil temp gets as high as 140 on a long climb if I'm also towing something (my delta's are still in spec for the standard Ford test on the level). As you might know, the E-series diesels have been detuned due to the difficulty of shedding heat in the tight engine compartment. I want to do a delete (easy with doghouse access) for the benefits that brings, but I wonder if the trade-off in higher temperatures is worth it? I do run a ScanGauge as well as an Auber pyrometer, so I'm comfortable enough with my monitoring, and am still leaning towards a delete.

 

Trouble for me is, with my spread out deltas I'm not sure I have much faith in the stock EGR cooler being any good still, so it's going to get replaced one way or another (not that I couldn't weld plugs in a new one of course). I kind of like the looks of the IPR delete, but not sure how much what they state on their site is true vs. other options like the Bulletproof cooler. It sure looks nice though!

 

I replaced my uppipe to a solid straight,no exhaust to the egr cooler just the water going thru it so its still inplace, so far so good no problems,cheap fast and dont need to pull the intake to do this, the cooler has a single bolt towards the rear to support it.