With the C type intake, would it not create more efficient fuel distribution if the carb was mounted as on a DP intake? I have the Clifford intake, making it possible to turn the carb either way.

It seems as though #5 and #6 cylinders would run a bit lean with the carb mounted parallel with the engine. Is that not the case?

 

I don't think there would be enough difference to make a difference. It might be productive of good results to put a divider in the C and mount the carb in the DP orientation with 2 barrels feeding the front three cylinders and 2 barrels feeding the back three cylinders. It has been a while since that was cussed and discussed here but I do recall some one or more doing that...

 

The C has a divider in the plenum down the centerline of the carb that runs from the center of #2 intake runner to center of #5, it's cut away (other than ~1/4" on the floor) under the carb. It must help divert a/f from the left side of the carb to #1 & #6. I've never noticed any difference in plug color from cylinder to cylinder.

 

Interesting. Do you have a photo or link? I have the Clifford int. and it has no such divider, so I assume you're speaking about the Offy?

 

Affirmative, Offenhauser C. Not great photos but here are a couple links:

https://www.hobbydb.com/catalog_item...linder/gallery

https://www.ebay.com/p/Performance-I...-4-9/718141006

I'd snap a couple myself but don't have anywhere to host photos anymore.

 

You will never get perfectly even A/F distribution on a 240/300 with a single carb. The only way you are going to get it close is multi carbs( 2-2V or 4V is better, 3-2V is best ) or multiport EFI. The difference between the two orientations on the carb mounting is going to be very minor. What you are going to do by mounting the carb sideways is to cause fuel slosh issues on hard acceleration/braking.

 

Thanks for the links Baron. That is very interesting.

Fordman: Yes, I believe 3x2v would be the best system. However, to make an intake from the lower efi section, is beyond what I want to do. It is also the linkage that intimidates me. I don't have a clue how to connect them, nor where/how to get the linkage parts needed, or set it up. This project, with removing the ridges from the chambers on the head, and installing the new engine with a zf, new saginaw p/s unit with braided lines, Cliffy intake and shorty header, all new exhaust, new hydroboost unit, swapping out the pedal assembly and fabbing in pivot bearings and heim connection to pedal, shoulder belts, new x4 speakers, will most likely be my last major project.

BTW, that means I will have a super tricked out C6 (sb) with 30k miles on it. Here is what was done to the c6, if anyone is interesting in buying it:
1. made 3 plate direct into 4 plate by machining .160" higher snap ring groove..

2. made 4 plate low/reverse clutch into a 5 plate setup by machining .150" off the pressure plate snap ring area

3. installed Transgo shift kit into your valve body during rebuild

4. installed Sonnax Billet R servo setup

5. complete rebuild kit with new band, pump bushing, all new frictions, rubber, seals, rings, etc.

6. spent a friggin hour plus on that ugly ugly ugly pan of yours... lol it was really bad..pounded out all the dents and then glass beaded it inside out.. had a lot of rust. then painted the pan with Duplicolor Cast Coat Iron color..

7. installed E4OD sprag setup.. which includes new race, torrington bearing and new late style clutch/roller set

8. changed your servo ratio arm from a J arm to an E arm.. different letter arms multiply the output of the servo at different ratios.. the E arm is very close to the F arm that Ford put in the Cobrajet C6's.

9. new adjustable modulator and new modulator hose..(btw, it shifts firm and quick. If I get on it, I can rev to over 5k in second, or let up and it shifts.)

I'll also have a hedman header, and a DP offy intake.

 

When I had a C on my other engine, the Offenhauser C didn't have much of a divider in it I think it was about 1/2" tall or something. Otherwise, it was just straight up open. I also had the carb mounted with the throttle linkage toward the valve cover, which put the primaries toward the front of the vehicle. Never had any issues with it, noticed any differentiation in plug color, etc.
With a 1" spacer between the intake and the carb, by the time the air/fuel mixture gets to the plenum floor and starts going to the cylinders, it's not going to remember which venturi it came through.

I agree with Fordman, though. A single carb is never going to be the best route (although it's the easiest and most economical). A 3 x 2v setup would be awesome.

Granted, if you're going to go all out, the 6x1v would be pretty cool too.

 

I'm all for the multi-carb set ups. I'm going 2-2V on the 300 that's going in my Econoline. That is mainly due to the space limitations with the van. Not a whole lot of space for a center carb. For my 240 I'm building for my 54 F100 I'm going 3-2V.

On mine I'm facing all the float bowls toward the front of the vehicles. So the linkages are pretty straight forward. It's just small heim joint at the carbs and some threaded rod or tubing to connect them. Then a throttle cable & bracket to operate the whole thing.

If you want to face the float bowls to one side or the other. Then you need to make some stands with heim joints on top and a solid rod that runs parallel to the valve cover. Then you get 3 or 4 clamp on linkage arms ( one for each carb and one for the main throttle linkage/cable ). Then from each linkage arm for the carbs you have a heim joint on each end and a threaded rod to connect them.

AB the multi-carb can be done pretty economically too. I'm building my own intake ( less then $100 ) and used Autolite 2100's that I'm rebuilding ( a lot less then the price of a new 4V carb ) . The linkage is a little more complicated. But it's pretty simple on mine.

No need for 6-1V that's way too much hassle. You can set up the 3-2V for a individual runner set up with half of the throttle linkages of the 6-1V.

I just like doing the fab work myself and saving a chunk of money. Especially considering what the clifford intakes sell for new! But I completely understand why someone would prefer the ease and simplicity of the 1-4V set up. I just wouldn't get too hung up on the carb orientation on the single carb set up (with the open plenum intake ) . The performance difference will be so small I doubt you'd even be able to tell ( as far as A/F distribution goes ) . I prefer the float bowl facing forward so you cut down on the fuel slosh issues.

 

Just a couple of Questions on this subject. Is the 2 4V bottom intake a Clifford unit? Who makes the 2 2V middle intake? Is it for 2G carbs?

On a Offy Dual Port my Autolite 4V 1.08 mounts with the choke plate towards the valve cover and the fuel bowl toward the outside. Will I have a fuel slosh
problem normally or only on hard acceleration?

 

All those intakes are Clifford's. The top two are for Weber carbs ( DCOE's, IDA's/IDF's etc.) . The bottom two have removable carb mounting bases.The dual carb intake has the mounting plates removed in the pic. So you can run just about any 2V carbs you want to on the 3-2V intake. And you can run either 2-4V or 2-2V carbs on the bottom intake.

That's just one of the many reasons I don't like the Offy DP intakes. That and the restriction in the plenum & ports. The whole point to aftermarket intakes is to remove restriction on these engines. If I would ever buy another single carb intake it would be a Offy C-series or the clifford equivalent. If you have a fuel slosh issue it will happen under hard acceleration or hard braking.

 

fordman75 --- Ted, thanks for the information on the Clifford Intake Manifolds. Like the 3x2 setup that you could run 3 Autolite 2100 2V carbs. At the price Clifford gets for a 3x2 or 2x4 manifold it makes building a 3x2 intake with a carb mount plenum and a EFI lower tube setup a great deal. Should work real well on a 300 performance motor in the 225-275 HP range. Should be 1/3 the price and a fun project and I have the EFI lower tube and two 2100 1.08 carbs rebuilt & ready to go.