When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've checked a number of threads and didn't see what I'm looking for. If you know the one I need and can point me at it, great.
89 F150 In line 6
Is there a for sure way of checking the fuel pump? I don't have access to a gauge. When I press the pressure relief valve fuel squirts out. Funds are tight and I don't wish to throw down $80 at some thing that may not be faulty.
It will fire up if I spray starter fluid in it.
Background
-20 degrees, fuel very low. Fill up and include HEET. Drive to work. Drive home. Hour later starts, then dies.
Next morning, starts with a jump. Drive to work. Later, starts then dies.
The next morning started with jump. Drive to my shop, will not start after shutting it off.
Got the truck into a heated shop in the hopes that I got froze water in lines.
Now it won't start even with a jump.
I've changed the filter and plugs. Checked pump ground. I hear clicks when I turn ignition.
Is there anything else I can check and is there a FOR SURE method to check the pump?
If you want to make sure the pump is producing on-spec pressure/flow you NEED a pressure gauge. It would also help to check any codes stored in the computer. If unsure, Google 'eec-iv codes paper clip' and you will find some step by step tutorials.
I'm hoping a friend has one I can use. But I won't know until later this week.
I saw a video were you can jump the test connector and count the engine light as it turns on and off for a code.
I'm hoping a friend has one I can use. But I won't know until later this week.
I saw a video were you can jump the test connector and count the engine light as it turns on and off for a code.
That is indeed the 'paperclip' method. It will work, just count all the flashes you see and note the pauses in between and we can help decode the rest.
I ordered on of those $18 fuel pressure gauges on ebay and had it in a couple days. I also have an 89. I can hear the pumps cycle and have some pressure at the schraeder valve but it looks weak.
That is indeed the 'paperclip' method. It will work, just count all the flashes you see and note the pauses in between and we can help decode the rest.
If I read it correctly, all the codes I saw probably was because the engine wasn't running. Everything points to the pump. But not 100% certain.
Screw it. Gonna replace the pump. let you know
I hate the hit and miss method.
I don't know how many times I've replaced a costly part and it turned out not to be the problem,
If I read it correctly, all the codes I saw probably was because the engine wasn't running. Everything points to the pump. But not 100% certain.
Screw it. Gonna replace the pump. let you know
I hate the hit and miss method.
I don't know how many times I've replaced a costly part and it turned out not to be the problem,
it might be helpful if you posted the codes that you got. so far, nothing actually points to the pump ... the pump may be a good guess, but that's all it is at this point. if you hate throwing away money and don't want to undertake a fairly big job that may not provide a fix you should post codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge.
67- went away when I pressed the clutch
13- RPM unable to reach lower test limit
23- TP sensor out of range
32- EVP voltage below closed limit
Checked engine light 4 times. One code may have been 213- Spout circuit open.
Going off of codes in a CHILTON manual. Not a fan of theirs.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.