Dying Problems
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth, TX
Dying Problems
Hey guys,
First time posting on here and I have a question. I own a 1985 F250 460 2WD with a 4Barrel Carburetor.
Recently have done a bunch of work to it and ran into a problem of my truck dying after it has been running for maybe 10 to 15 min. After it dies sometime it will fire up immediately, while other times it may take 5min.
Also thought fuel might be boiling so I have moved the fuel line but nothing changed.
Any ideas?
Recently done: New hooker headers, full tune up (w/ cap and rotor), Ignition Control Module, Water Pump, Radiator, New Edelbrock Carb
First time posting on here and I have a question. I own a 1985 F250 460 2WD with a 4Barrel Carburetor.
Recently have done a bunch of work to it and ran into a problem of my truck dying after it has been running for maybe 10 to 15 min. After it dies sometime it will fire up immediately, while other times it may take 5min.
Also thought fuel might be boiling so I have moved the fuel line but nothing changed.
Any ideas?
Recently done: New hooker headers, full tune up (w/ cap and rotor), Ignition Control Module, Water Pump, Radiator, New Edelbrock Carb
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 65
Welcome to the forum.
Need more details. Can you describe “dying”.
Running out of gas dying, flooding, or more like turning off the key dying?
If you have stock electric fuel pumps they deliver about 8 psi which can be too much for an Eddie carb. Maybe you need a pressure regulator to get it down to 6 psi? Also check float levels.
Gut says ignition. If there wasn’t anything wrong with the old ignition module swap it back in and see if the problem goes away. From there, a coil can act up hot and so can the magnetic pickups inside the distributor.
Need more details. Can you describe “dying”.
Running out of gas dying, flooding, or more like turning off the key dying?
If you have stock electric fuel pumps they deliver about 8 psi which can be too much for an Eddie carb. Maybe you need a pressure regulator to get it down to 6 psi? Also check float levels.
Gut says ignition. If there wasn’t anything wrong with the old ignition module swap it back in and see if the problem goes away. From there, a coil can act up hot and so can the magnetic pickups inside the distributor.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
Agree with Brnfree's queerie about the ICM. What led you to believe it was bad?
The truck "dying" that you describe are classic symptoms of an ICM gone south. Other symptoms could be present but, again, what led you to change out the old ICM?
...And, welcome to FTE.
The truck "dying" that you describe are classic symptoms of an ICM gone south. Other symptoms could be present but, again, what led you to change out the old ICM?
...And, welcome to FTE.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth, TX
Welcome to the forum.
Need more details. Can you describe “dying”.
Running out of gas dying, flooding, or more like turning off the key dying?
If you have stock electric fuel pumps they deliver about 8 psi which can be too much for an Eddie carb. Maybe you need a pressure regulator to get it down to 6 psi? Also check float levels.
Gut says ignition. If there wasn’t anything wrong with the old ignition module swap it back in and see if the problem goes away. From there, a coil can act up hot and so can the magnetic pickups inside the distributor.
Need more details. Can you describe “dying”.
Running out of gas dying, flooding, or more like turning off the key dying?
If you have stock electric fuel pumps they deliver about 8 psi which can be too much for an Eddie carb. Maybe you need a pressure regulator to get it down to 6 psi? Also check float levels.
Gut says ignition. If there wasn’t anything wrong with the old ignition module swap it back in and see if the problem goes away. From there, a coil can act up hot and so can the magnetic pickups inside the distributor.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth, TX
Agree with Brnfree's queerie about the ICM. What led you to believe it was bad?
The truck "dying" that you describe are classic symptoms of an ICM gone south. Other symptoms could be present but, again, what led you to change out the old ICM?
...And, welcome to FTE.
The truck "dying" that you describe are classic symptoms of an ICM gone south. Other symptoms could be present but, again, what led you to change out the old ICM?
...And, welcome to FTE.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,992
Likes: 2,741
From: Virginia
You have a fairly complex fuel system with return lines. How did you handle all that with the new carb? You also have a oil pressure switch and a relay to keep the fuel pumps running.
If you look over at your starter solenoid, you should have a blue wire coming off the "I" terminal. This gives power to the fuel pumps during cranking. If you take this wire off and jump it to the battery +, the pumps should run all the time. Then you can take it for a test run and see if it still stalls out.
If you look over at your starter solenoid, you should have a blue wire coming off the "I" terminal. This gives power to the fuel pumps during cranking. If you take this wire off and jump it to the battery +, the pumps should run all the time. Then you can take it for a test run and see if it still stalls out.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 65
You have a fairly complex fuel system with return lines. How did you handle all that with the new carb? You also have a oil pressure switch and a relay to keep the fuel pumps running.
If you look over at your starter solenoid, you should have a blue wire coming off the "I" terminal. This gives power to the fuel pumps during cranking. If you take this wire off and jump it to the battery +, the pumps should run all the time. Then you can take it for a test run and see if it still stalls out.
If you look over at your starter solenoid, you should have a blue wire coming off the "I" terminal. This gives power to the fuel pumps during cranking. If you take this wire off and jump it to the battery +, the pumps should run all the time. Then you can take it for a test run and see if it still stalls out.
Maybe it’s coincidence but after running 10 minutes the choke should just about be open. Don’t know much about tuning Eddies but curious if it’s somehow too lean with the choke off?
Otherwise it’s probably not the pickup inside the distributor because when they act up the motor quits like you turned off the key. A bad coil might idle okay but start missing and cutting out under a load.
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jan 2018
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From: Fort Worth, TX
I finally figured out what it was. I replaced the coil and the same thing kept happening. Finally pulled the fuel pump and upon further inspection it was clogging up due to what I would assume to be rust in the gas tank.
Thanks for yalls help!
Thanks for yalls help!
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