She Dies :(
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2002
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She Dies :(
Ok, here it goes.
I have a 1978 F150 with a freshly rebuilt 351m in her, anyways, I have this huge problem. It doesen't matter if she's hot or cold or on the weather. I can crank her up and she'll idle fine and then just die like the key was turned off, no sputter or anything. It also does it driving down the road. I thought, hah carb, i changed the carb and it still did it. Then I thouhgt coil, pulled the coil off, OEM!
changed that out, got an MPG increase but the dying was still the same. rerouted the fuel line thinking vapor lock, still dies. Changed fuel filter, still dies, got the carb adjusted professionally with accel pump and all, she still dies. I changed the fuel pump, she still dies. Man....what gives? The little brain mounted on the driver's side firewall maybe? I dont know. I take comfort in the thought that I'm not the only one that has had this problem. BTW she also has new plugs, new wires, new rotor and new cap and new stator thingy in the bottom of the dist.
I have a 1978 F150 with a freshly rebuilt 351m in her, anyways, I have this huge problem. It doesen't matter if she's hot or cold or on the weather. I can crank her up and she'll idle fine and then just die like the key was turned off, no sputter or anything. It also does it driving down the road. I thought, hah carb, i changed the carb and it still did it. Then I thouhgt coil, pulled the coil off, OEM!
changed that out, got an MPG increase but the dying was still the same. rerouted the fuel line thinking vapor lock, still dies. Changed fuel filter, still dies, got the carb adjusted professionally with accel pump and all, she still dies. I changed the fuel pump, she still dies. Man....what gives? The little brain mounted on the driver's side firewall maybe? I dont know. I take comfort in the thought that I'm not the only one that has had this problem. BTW she also has new plugs, new wires, new rotor and new cap and new stator thingy in the bottom of the dist.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
She Dies :(
Get the ignition module tested at a local parts store, it's free.
Always do the cheap stuff first.
If you need another module get a Motorcraft unit. The aftermarket units are junk and fail all the time. Mount the module with spacers 1/4" off of the fender so air can get under it for cooling.
Always do the cheap stuff first.
If you need another module get a Motorcraft unit. The aftermarket units are junk and fail all the time. Mount the module with spacers 1/4" off of the fender so air can get under it for cooling.
New User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18
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She Dies :(
I also had this problem. My problem turned out to be the dist. I changed the module, ign. switch, coil etc. and each time i thought it was fixed it would shut off. if you let it sit for 15 min. or so it would fire back up and run for a bit. But i would do like Torque 1st said and get the module checked.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 419
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From: Georgia
She Dies :(
A friend of mine had the same problem and if your truck has dual tanks, then check the module that changes from tank to tank. His truck had one tank removed and the module kept going back and forth and sucking air into the carb and stalling after running just fine. Just my two cents.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,214
Likes: 2
From: Minneapolis, MN
She Dies :(
The neutral safety switch would only affect the starter. After it's running, it's only used for the reverse lights and that's on a different circuit.
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Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
She Dies :(
You said you replaced the pickup module in the distributor and that did not help?
When it is running can you move the wires to the distributor or ignition module and make it die?
Can you move the wires to the coil and make it die?
When it is running can you move the wires to the distributor or ignition module and make it die?
Can you move the wires to the coil and make it die?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,214
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From: Minneapolis, MN
She Dies :(
The ignition module should be on the driver's side inner fender, just ahead of the hood hinge. Should be an aluminum box, about 6" square with 2 groups of wires coming from it. If you replace it, get a Motorcraft unit. Some of the aftermarket ones are junk. Also mount it with 1/4" spacers to let some cooling air get between it and the fender.
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