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Rod numbers aren't super critical, as long as they are installed the correct way.
That bearing just looks like the motor was dirty when assembled and had lots of dirt run through it. Definitely not spun. When they spin they get distorted and the rod would be dark/burnt in color. The bearing "tang" would be gone also.
Here's the cam that came with the truck, pretty disgusting I know. Its like this or worse on every lobe
Also I got new valve springs from Eldelbrock and 8 springs have inner dampeners and the other 8 are just the spring. I put the 8 springs with inner dampeners on the intake valves correct? All the springs I pulled have the inner dampeners
The springs in my hand are the new ones.
Did these springs come with a cam kit or what.
I would call Edelbrock about the springs, no way I'd use a set of mixed springs like that without some instructions explaining what went where and why.
Run your fingernail over the crank journal. If you feel any ridges, then it needs ground(or at least polished really well). Putting another bearing on it will just tear it up again.
Not sure about that cam? Not sure those are finger prints, or just wear marks in the material that looks like finger prints. Do you plan on reusing it or did you get a new one? Breaking in a flat tappet motor is a delicate operation these days compared to back when oil had all the right ingredients.
Something is up with the springs, they should be all the same!
Did these springs come with a cam kit or what.
I would call Edelbrock about the springs, no way I'd use a set of mixed springs like that without some instructions explaining what went where and why.
Turns out there are two sets for a 390, one for non rotator and rotators. Called Edelbrock and they were super cool, they said they will send someone to my house to deliver a set of correct springs from their head assembly warehouse.
Turns out there are two sets for a 390, one for non rotator and rotators. Called Edelbrock and they were super cool, they said they will send someone to my house to deliver a set of correct springs from their head assembly warehouse.
Bet the assembler cleaned the cam, and left it dry for a while.
Yeah, hopefully I can put my 390 back together correctly, I think the hardest part will be getting my cam bearings straight.
Also what sort of plugs should I see for the oil passages? It looks like the passenger side lifter galley has a plug where the cam thrust plate screws in, should this still be plugged?
Not sure about that cam? Not sure those are finger prints, or just wear marks in the material that looks like finger prints. Do you plan on reusing it or did you get a new one? Breaking in a flat tappet motor is a delicate operation these days compared to back when oil had all the right ingredients!
I don't think the additives had so much to do with cam failures, it's more of a bad lifter machining process that kills em during break-in. If the lifter bottom's not machined correctly, it will not rotate and that alone will kill it in during the break-in period. The additive package in oil would result in a longer period of time to kill a cam and lifters.
02-21-2018, 10:56 AM
