Last week my truck started to run strange. It was starting to get a hiccup, like a gas engine running out of gas, but it only lasted a couple seconds. I thought maybe it would improve, or get worse, so I drove it a couple days, and it got worse. I wasn't sure where to start, so I started with the easy, I checked all the sensor connectors and put some electric grease in them, and it seemed to solve the problem. A few days later, it started to act up, much worse. This time, it stalled while driving, and it took a few tries of starting, and pulling ahead before it stalled again to get it into the parking lot nearby. When I did, I wiggled the connectors, and it seemed to help, so I went home.

I started it, and wiggled the wires with it running, trying to get it to act up, but it would not. I also cannot replicate it while driving, it does it randomly, with no noticeable pattern. I have a fuel pressure gauge, and it reads 60-65 psi at all times, so not a fuel issue. I have it hooked up after the filter, so it is not the filter. I did still pull the filter out, and it is a healthy color, and not contaminated with oil. The oil level is good, and was last changed about 2,000 miles ago, using rotella 15w40 as always. I changed the ICP with a spare, and it did not help. I also unplugged the ICP while running, and it stayed the same, so I am pretty sure the ICP is fine. I have two codes, both are for low glow plug voltage, one code for each bank; however, those codes have been on for many months. I tried to find the problem, spent many hours with a multimeter, and many more hours online trying to figure it out, I decided to leave it, because they function as they should, as far as I can tell. There is another code, for low ICP voltage, but it only came on after I switched them (I switched them back, it is still on) and I tried to clear it, but it is still on.

I have spent about an hour a day reading about this, since it started to happen. I decided it is finally time to ask the experts!!

I think AE would help diagnose the issue, and even if it does not, I will have it if I ever need it in the future. What is the difference with this cheap one here, and a $350 unit?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AutoEnginui...4AAMXQVT9TCkKI

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

Subscribed to see where the diagnostics lead.

About the only thing I can contribute at this point is that I don't think it is glow plugs. They will only cause problems when cold.

And maybe look at Torque Pro and an ODB-II bluetooth reader as an alternative to the AE tool.

 

I addition to AE you'll need the enhanced Ford software to read all of the sensors on our trucks. I do not know what it will read without the Ford enhanced software. You may be able to get that refurbished connector plus the software for less than a bundled package.And like DogRides says, ForScan or TorquePro would be cheaper, much cheaper.

 

Alright, so its just cheap because it doesn't have the software. I would imagine that AE is a better tool than forscan or torque pro though? Or is it pretty much the same thing but cheaper?

 

I have an older version of AE and know how to use it. I have ForScan on my iPad and only half know how to use it. The ForScan setup is easier to initiate and might be as good as or better than AE, someone with a better grasp on those will have to help you. The later version of AE is problematic.

 

I would surmise, based on your description, it would be an electrical issue. Where to start?

IPR Tinnerman Nut
UVCH Connections
IPR
IDM

Have you recorded and cleared the DTC's? Low Voltage Injector in both banks could be an indication of the UVCH / IDM?

Unfortunately, you will have to wait until it presents the issue again to determine what DTC's are issued.

 

After thinking about it, I remember the low voltage GP codes came on after I put a stick swap. So it has been on much longer than I thought, at least a year. I swapped the engine, new UVCH, GP, GPR, and the light stayed on. Like I said, it got to the point that I decided it wasn't a big deal.

I looked into forscan, it almost seemed like it only works on android? I checked the app store on my Iphone, and there is "FORScan Lite- for Ford, Mazda" is that the right one? I am going to get a bluetooth adapter if it will tell me all of the numbers the engine is reading while running.

 

Yes, I think it's 'lite' that works on iStuff but you'll need a WIFI adapter, not bluetooth. VeePeak from Amazon is what I got for about $15.00.

 

Is this what I need?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ELM327-OBD2...cAAOSwjwtZqQc0

 

A lot of those things don't work so I don't know if that will or not. I have this one and it works.

 

 

I forgot to mention, the CPS was the first thing I tried. Both gray

Walleye, you use that with forscan on an iphone? If so I am going to order it. I bought a torque pro a couple years ago but couldn't figure it out so I gave it to a buddy, I dont want that to happen again.

 

My iPhone is at the edge of its memory, I use my iPad but the iPhone will work, I don't know how small the type will be.

 

You can plug your iPhone into your computer via USB and from the phone, give permission for the PC to access your files. You can then download the gajillion pictures to your PC and delete them from your phone. This typically regains at least half of the memory in a phone.

I would opt for FORscan - I have it on all of my laptops and my Android phone. AE is useful if you have some non-Ford/Mazda vehicles you want to connect to, but the new version is a pain in the butt to connect to any vehicle. You can't save a configuration you make for your vehicle, so each time is like the first time.

 

I'm sure you've hit on this a time or two in the past (or a hundred) but how do I save the PID's that are commonly used so I don't have to start from ground zero every time in AE?