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Take the switch back out and operate it by hand, if it works ok you know it's the actuator,if it is still acting up, you know it's bad wire or connection.
... this is true ... however, the OP needs to know that there is a provision for adjusting this switch up and down the column to compensate for wear in the lock/actuator/switch. the switch has oval mounting holes for this.
... this is true ... however, the OP needs to know that there is a provision for adjusting this switch up and down the column to compensate for wear in the lock/actuator/switch. the switch has oval mounting holes for this.
i took the switch out and moved it by hand and it still was acting the same way
so how do i go about finding a broke wire? or bad connector?
Use a DVM to verify power is on terminals B1 and B5. Then verify power gets to the A1 terminal when the key is in Accessory and Run position. The chart on the diagram tells you which ones are hot in each position.
This where you need to figure out if the ignition switch actuator is broken or if there is poor connection for the B1 connection.
With everything connected B1 should be hot. If connector C269 is making poor contact with the ignition switch that could be your problem. If there is no power on B1 then you have a bad wire to that connection.