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Has anybody hooked up some aux lights (back-up in my case) without having up fitter switches? I would prefer to have them separate from my reverse lights because I like being able to turn them on whenever I want. I was thinking just having a switch under the dash or something of the like. (I plan on going LED)
There was someone here who did his own version of a bank of upfitter switches located on the floor in front of the jump seat (a no-console six-seater). It was a very professional looking installation, but a bit of a reach down there. I'm going to follow along this thread to see if other ideas come along.
Hooking them up to an upfitter switch is the exact same thing as hooking up your own. They've just made it super simple so you don't have to run wires to the switch, it's done from the factory.
Drill a hole in your dash, mount the switch, run the power and light leads to the battery or relay and lights, run one to ground if it's a lit switch, and Bob's your uncle. It's time consuming running the wires, but not hard at all. There's a wire loom on the frame on the driver's side you can follow from the tail to the front battery.
How about a wireless switch? Not sure if the rating will work for you but I had bought one of these for my air bag compressor on my F150. Can't tell you more since I didn't end up using it.
How about a wireless switch? Not sure if the rating will work for you but I had bought one of these for my air bag compressor on my F150. Can't tell you more since I didn't end up using it.
That's a pretty cool gizmo...sure wish you could give it a review. The price is so low it makes me wonder if it will last.
Sorry. I bought it to hook up to my compressor for my air bags because the installer wired it to a always hot circuit. I ended up going back to them and they moved it to an ignition powered circuit so didn't end up needing it.
I do have a wireless switch in my camper to control power to reverse camera and it works great. A different switch than this since I didn't need weatherproof where I put it.
If you truly have no wiring experience or desire to run wiring check out the S-POD. Jeepers have been using them for years. There are cheaper versions of it but theirs is the easiest for non wiring people. They even have a digital control now.
Hooking them up to an upfitter switch is the exact same thing as hooking up your own. They've just made it super simple so you don't have to run wires to the switch, it's done from the factory.
Drill a hole in your dash, mount the switch, run the power and light leads to the battery or relay and lights, run one to ground if it's a lit switch, and Bob's your uncle. It's time consuming running the wires, but not hard at all. There's a wire loom on the frame on the driver's side you can follow from the tail to the front battery.
Where is the most logical place to run the wires into/from the cab?
Where is the most logical place to run the wires into/from the cab?
There's plugs on the bottom of the truck, just make sure you seal your hole after you punch through.
Personally, if I were running it I would run my LED power light up to the front battery where the upfitter bundle is (whether you have it or not). Ground the lights in the rear, near the bumper. Then run your light switch wires through the firewall to where the upfitter box is/would be. Its right behind the drivers side battery.
Now you can wire your switch up, install a relay/fuse, etc. and its in an easy and well protected area. Theres a huge grommet on the firewall right there as well. I ran my Amp's power cable through it. I think it was easier to push the wire through the firewall from the cab. Get under there and look behind and up to the left of the brake pedal.
EDIT: I actually did this for some after market bed lighting. I installed a little push button switch where the factory one would go, then installed some lights under the bed rails. Came out amazing, and I ran it exactly as described above. The switch isnt installed in this pic, but I installed it right there on that plastic piece.
There's plugs on the bottom of the truck, just make sure you seal your hole after you punch through.
Personally, if I were running it I would run my LED power light up to the front battery where the upfitter bundle is (whether you have it or not). Ground the lights in the rear, near the bumper. Then run your light switch wires through the firewall to where the upfitter box is/would be. Its right behind the drivers side battery.
Now you can wire your switch up, install a relay/fuse, etc. and its in an easy and well protected area. Theres a huge grommet on the firewall right there as well. I ran my Amp's power cable through it. I think it was easier to push the wire through the firewall from the cab. Get under there and look behind and up to the left of the brake pedal.
EDIT: I actually did this for some after market bed lighting. I installed a little push button switch where the factory one would go, then installed some lights under the bed rails. Came out amazing, and I ran it exactly as described above. The switch isnt installed in this pic, but I installed it right there on that plastic piece.
Excellent info Tricon, thanks! I've got fogs 'and rear floods to mount and wire. Just haven't had the time to get started. Once I get time and access the cab, the rest will be a breeze.
Excellent info Tricon! I have amber fogs and rear floods sitting on the shelf waiting for me to mount and wire. Once I breach the cab with wires the rest will be a breeze.
Rigid Flush Mount 4700 lumen each 3 position switch, 1=on (always hot) 2=off (avoid reflection on trailer) 3= on when in reverse I mounted a marine grade water resistant 3 way toggle switch just under the rear bumper. In position one they only come on when in reverse (most used position). In position two they dont come on to avoid reflection off trailer. In position three they come on without key (always hot). Love it. Can see great at night even with tinted windows.
I know you prefer a switch vs. hooking to backup lights, but I did the latter today. Very simple installation, green wire is hot, blue is ground. The light brackets bolted right up using existing torx head bolts. I should have taken a picture with the lights turned off.
I know you prefer a switch vs. hooking to backup lights, but I did the latter today. Very simple installation, green wire is hot, blue is ground. The light brackets bolted right up using existing torx head bolts. I should have taken a picture with the lights turned off.
01-22-2018, 10:29 PM
