Why rewire the ammeter this way?
#16
#17
Is that a picture of yours? If it is, you did a nice job - it's refreshing to see some high quality wiring work under the hood of an old vehicle. People are WAY too good at hacking wiring apart.
#18
The starter draws a lot more than 70 amps. It isn't a bad idea to have a master breaker near the battery (between the batt and solenoid), but you would need around 250 amp breaker for that. I installed a breaker just like yours that the rest of the electrical system feeds off of. The only thing fed directly off my solenoid is the starter.
#19
Breaker
62FordF250 is correct. That breaker isn't capable of being in the starter circuit. In the original 65 harness the Black wire goes from the start relay to the breaker and from the breaker to the (-) side of the ammeter and the Black/Yellow stripe wire comes from the (+) side of the ammeter to the junction block. This picture is my truck. The PO had added the gauges without a breaker. As you can see something had grounded out and that black wire is toast.
#20
I can't help you much with this as I have a voltmeter in mine and went to ground with one side and to the ignition switch on the other so when you turn the key off there is no draw. But here are some pictures of how the gen is wired and since the day I got this truck, 1978, it has had the condenser on it. Think it is factory since it has a radio.
#21
If you look in the manual, for noise suppression they had condensers at both ends of the Armature wire, as shown here at generator but also at regulator itself. Maybe because of the regulator points buzzing into the wire and being "broadcast". Some say it will help regulator points last longer.
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