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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

starter upgrade?

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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 08:00 AM
  #31  
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It can be a little overwhelming. Most of the choices are very similar. I do t remember hearing about the SD starter breaking things. I thought I read that about the Denso unit because of its size and weight.

I went with the SD starter and like it a lot. Here is why. A good upgrade from stock. The least amount of work to install. Lifetime warranty. If I am out on the road and it craps out I should be able to get a replacement pretty easily.

 
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 01:30 PM
  #32  
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Did you go with a 7.3l sd unit? They don't cost much. I expect that it spins faster. I see one unit that is a 4.0 power rating. All new parts for 110.00
 
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 01:40 PM
  #33  
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Yes. That is the one I used. It is the 2 hole type that is an offset gear reduction starter. It was a new starter. I think mine was was closer to $200. Rockauto or someplace like that is probably cheaper. I chose to go with Oreillys because they had one in stock, and as mentioned previously, if it had a problem then I have someone local to work with who replace it the same day. It cranks over really fast.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2018 | 06:39 PM
  #34  
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I was told Oreiller prices matches rockautoif they have the same brand.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2018 | 08:01 AM
  #35  
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What RPM should the truck turnover at? I could not start this AM. The truck was turning over around 400 to 450 but that was with it trying to start.?
 
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Old Nov 27, 2018 | 08:34 PM
  #36  
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Obviously the more the better, but I think the PCM must see 200 before it will start
 
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Old Nov 27, 2018 | 08:35 PM
  #37  
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How cold was it?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2018 | 08:30 AM
  #38  
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I think it depends on the PCM version as to what RPM it will start to inject

Before I did my batteries and cleaned every terminal end, it would crank slow yet fire up.
I was surprised on how fast it did crank after all the cleaning
 
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Old Nov 28, 2018 | 10:27 AM
  #39  
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It fired up fine this AM. I wired in the battery tender and the block heater to work together. At least it will have a full charge when I go to start it. I need to find the draw if it is not the XM radio. I'm going to just replace the GPR and the Starter for good measure. When I'm healed I will look at the Glow plugs.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2018 | 08:15 PM
  #40  
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How about the glove box light? It might be staying on.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2018 | 08:28 PM
  #41  
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
Originally Posted by AK FORD GUY
I agree on that!!! There are other options, but I didn't have time to look them up.

I opted to just buy cable, military clamps, ring terminals, shrink tubing and a cheap hydraulic crimper. It makes some real nice cables and is one of my favorite tools.

I have built 3-4 complete setups for different rigs as well as repaired some for friends and family.

what criper did you buy i got a hammer one i been using for years,im afraid to order the wrong hydro crimper from amazon. can you link me to the one you bought that works?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2018 | 08:35 PM
  #42  
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
Originally Posted by AK FORD GUY
Honestly, good batteries and replacing all my cables (including the starter) with 3/0 cable with good clamps was one of the best things I have done on my 89 F350 IDIT.
3/0 is overkill, but in cold temps, I'll take all the help I can get...

It cranks over pretty darn fast for an old diesel.

I know, I know, not a Powerstroke... but it still applies.

This is the cable I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

These are the terminals I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Amazon

says it needs special handling and cant be shipped to alaska, you move out of alaska?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2018 | 09:00 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
How about the glove box light? It might be staying on.
I fixed that issue last year. The draw is so low. I think it has to be the XM radio. It searched for a signal half the time so who knows how much power it uses. I need to just pull every fuse and put them back in 1 at time. I Pulled many of them with no change.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2018 | 08:55 PM
  #44  
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Well, I'm still working on the truck, trying to get the thing to start in the cold. Added a new starter. spins super fast but does not disengage. The holes in the starter are slightly larger than the bolts for the starter. The connectors for the gaskets/glowplugs are melted on both sides. I'm not sure if this was there before I replace the plugs 2 years ago or not. It never started fast in the cold.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2018 | 10:56 AM
  #45  
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Sounds like solenoid is sticking, happened on my F150. Bought a Motorcraft 'noid, never a problem again.



Sounds like time to go to that Superduty style setup.
 
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