starter upgrade?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7,180
Likes: 1,336
From: Bahstun
if there is a volt reading across the wire when cranking, there is resistance in the wiring and that resistance isn't letting the starter have all the voltage
Cant test it with out a load which is why I mentioned while cranking.
Cant test it with out a load which is why I mentioned while cranking.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
The 6.7 starter has better brushes for more contact area, a larger support bearing, and increased loaded speed (larger diameter pinion) but can be adapted to work on a 7.3. The cones are different so you need a 6.7 starter AND a 2 bolt 7.3 OSGR starter and you will take parts off the 7.3 so it will bolt up correctly. They are both OSGR.
The one main difference is the 6.7 starter has a higher peak stall current than the OSGR 7.3 starter but given the loaded speed is higher would make sense.
Starter wise, I have used the knock off DB electrical high torque 4.36kW, genuine Denso, TYC OSGR, Ford oem reman Mitsubishi PLGR, and 6.7mod genuine Ford. After taking apart a few Denso high torque knock offs that failed I would never get a Denso unless it was guaranteed genuine. The bearings in the look alikes are junk, brushes wear down fast, solenoids have sticking issues, and some have bendix issues.
I have noticed the Denso starter seems to loosen the starter bolts, we will see with the 6.7.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 910
Likes: 96
From: Fl.
The 6.7 starter has better brushes for more contact area, a larger support bearing, and increased loaded speed (larger diameter pinion) but can be adapted to work on a 7.3. The cones are different so you need a 6.7 starter AND a 2 bolt 7.3 OSGR starter and you will take parts off the 7.3 so it will bolt up correctly. They are both OSGR.
The one main difference is the 6.7 starter has a higher peak stall current than the OSGR 7.3 starter but given the loaded speed is higher would make sense.
Starter wise, I have used the knock off DB electrical high torque 4.36kW, genuine Denso, TYC OSGR, Ford oem reman Mitsubishi PLGR, and 6.7mod genuine Ford. After taking apart a few Denso high torque knock offs that failed I would never get a Denso unless it was guaranteed genuine. The bearings in the look alikes are junk, brushes wear down fast, solenoids have sticking issues, and some have bendix issues.
I have noticed the Denso starter seems to loosen the starter bolts, we will see with the 6.7.
The one main difference is the 6.7 starter has a higher peak stall current than the OSGR 7.3 starter but given the loaded speed is higher would make sense.
Starter wise, I have used the knock off DB electrical high torque 4.36kW, genuine Denso, TYC OSGR, Ford oem reman Mitsubishi PLGR, and 6.7mod genuine Ford. After taking apart a few Denso high torque knock offs that failed I would never get a Denso unless it was guaranteed genuine. The bearings in the look alikes are junk, brushes wear down fast, solenoids have sticking issues, and some have bendix issues.
I have noticed the Denso starter seems to loosen the starter bolts, we will see with the 6.7.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,691
Likes: 2
From: Fallon NV
My wires looked like hell. I cut and cleaned up everything. coated all of them with the electrical grease. Seems to turn over faster but the engine was warm too. I need new wires they are getting too short they are tight now.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,587
Likes: 47
From: Eagle River, AK
Good source for cables.
Not sure if we have a vendor that does this service as well.
Custom Battery Cables F350 cables
Not sure if we have a vendor that does this service as well.
Custom Battery Cables F350 cables
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,587
Likes: 47
From: Eagle River, AK
I agree on that!!! There are other options, but I didn't have time to look them up.
I opted to just buy cable, military clamps, ring terminals, shrink tubing and a cheap hydraulic crimper. It makes some real nice cables and is one of my favorite tools.
I have built 3-4 complete setups for different rigs as well as repaired some for friends and family.
I opted to just buy cable, military clamps, ring terminals, shrink tubing and a cheap hydraulic crimper. It makes some real nice cables and is one of my favorite tools.
I have built 3-4 complete setups for different rigs as well as repaired some for friends and family.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 15,505
Likes: 18
From: Livoina,La
Order 15' of 1/0 super flex wire, ring terminals, marine batter clamps, heat shrink, solder and make your own. If you shop around you can do the for around 150
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 776
Likes: 3
From: Felton, Delaware
I didn't read the rest of the thread but those clamps are absolutely junk after a few months. The lead and copper start to oxidize and impede current flow from copper to the lead. That being said when i got my truck it had a single battery and those terminals and still started. It was slower, but still worked.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 776
Likes: 3
From: Felton, Delaware
I've used these cables on 3 trucks now without any issues. Starting down to -1F without plugging in and no issues (used on both IDIs and Powerstrokes)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-A1...5aAa~C&vxp=mtr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Cab...tZ-v-5&vxp=mtr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Cab...JZ~ACs&vxp=mtr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-A1...5aAa~C&vxp=mtr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Cab...tZ-v-5&vxp=mtr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Cab...JZ~ACs&vxp=mtr
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,587
Likes: 47
From: Eagle River, AK
Honestly, good batteries and replacing all my cables (including the starter) with 3/0 cable with good clamps was one of the best things I have done on my 89 F350 IDIT.
3/0 is overkill, but in cold temps, I'll take all the help I can get...
It cranks over pretty darn fast for an old diesel.
I know, I know, not a Powerstroke... but it still applies.
This is the cable I bought:
These are the terminals I bought:
3/0 is overkill, but in cold temps, I'll take all the help I can get...
It cranks over pretty darn fast for an old diesel.
I know, I know, not a Powerstroke... but it still applies.
This is the cable I bought:
These are the terminals I bought:
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,691
Likes: 2
From: Fallon NV
Well, I was searching out info on starters again and found I asked the question already. I replaced the cables, the batts and still have a slow start up. I think it must be my starter. Imstill confused a little. I can get a 2 bolt 2000 to 2004 SD starter. and bolt it right up with a little clearancing of the cable eye..... The starter is heaver and has caused parts to break in the past on some? I can also go 6.7L starter but I would need a 7.3 SD starter nose cone and put it on the 6.7 starters. In the end, My assumptions are the 6.7 cost more, they both spin the same or the 6.7 just a tad faster. the 6.7 should last longer. Denso hi torque staters can be found new or rebuilt. may or may not be the real thing? Yes or no? Am I over thinking it?
