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You should get a shop manual before you try this. It will help immensely.
I'm converting this truck into a crew cab. My father and I are measuring the door for cut and we are noticing that we have to shrink the access hole by 3" that option won't work. We may have to open up a new slot for window to go in, which it isn't want we want.
I'm converting this truck into a crew cab. My father and I are measuring the door for cut and we are noticing that we have to shrink the access hole by 3" that option won't work. We may have to open up a new slot for window to go in, which it isn't want we want.
It is a tight fit as is to get the glass in the access hole. An even tighter fit is getting the division bar in and out of the access hole. The glass has a metal channel that holds the glass. This will not fit through the window frame from the top.
Still having a hard time seeing why window cant go in through top. My father and I did a template out of 1/4" wood, slid in like nothing. Am I missing something?
The thickness of the glass isn’t the problem. As Abe said, there is a lift channel (see below) attached to the bottom of the glass. It is too thick to fit through the slot in the top of the door body. Especially with the lower felts in place.
The glass alone will slide on because it does slide up and down when you open and close the window.
But as I said in post #6 above, there is a metal channel that the glass is I served in. The rollers of the window regulator engage in this to put the window up and down. This will not fit in the narrow window opening.
These examples are 53 to 55 windows but you should get the idea.
Most electric conversion kits do have their own track. I removed the division bar and used an electric conversion kit from Mid Fifty. The window will go in from the top.....Make sure you put it in the right way, there is a very slight curve to the glass, or there was in the glass that I bought, anyway.
