New Headers Smog issue
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New User
Joined: Oct 2017
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From: NYC / FL
New Headers Smog issue
Happy Holidays Everyone,
I recently installed JBA Shortys on my 5.8 351W F 250 4x4. The shop that installed the headers removed the smog tube in the back of the motor. It looks like it is a long tube piece that is connected from one manifold to another. I believe it also plugs a hole in the back of the motor. I believe this is the primary issue.
The truck is whistling pretty loud either pushing air in or blowing it out from this hole, & the CEL came on after. I think this can be plugged to get the motor to run properly.
1) Can I install a plate to plug the whole leave it at that, or do I need to remove a pulley and other things.
2) Can this be fixed with out keeping the CEL light on?
Please help with the best advice how to proceed and include any part numbers if possible. This is my work truck so it does a lot of hauling and towing & it is running very learn I believe. I will be doing this job in the very very very cold.
Thank you in advance for all the help.
I recently installed JBA Shortys on my 5.8 351W F 250 4x4. The shop that installed the headers removed the smog tube in the back of the motor. It looks like it is a long tube piece that is connected from one manifold to another. I believe it also plugs a hole in the back of the motor. I believe this is the primary issue.
The truck is whistling pretty loud either pushing air in or blowing it out from this hole, & the CEL came on after. I think this can be plugged to get the motor to run properly.
1) Can I install a plate to plug the whole leave it at that, or do I need to remove a pulley and other things.
2) Can this be fixed with out keeping the CEL light on?
Please help with the best advice how to proceed and include any part numbers if possible. This is my work truck so it does a lot of hauling and towing & it is running very learn I believe. I will be doing this job in the very very very cold.
Thank you in advance for all the help.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,342
Likes: 1,318
From: Central Mississippi
A pair of 5/8 coarse thread (11 threads per inch) bolts at least 1 inch long will screw into the holes that were uncovered when the cross pipe of the air injection was removed.
The cross pipe had flanges that were bolted down with smaller bolts, but the holes that the pipe went into is threaded as described.
Most people use a copper washer to positively seal, but I ran mine for years with just 2 inch stainless bolts covered in antiseize.
There are numerous threads here on what to do with the remainder of the air injection system & its pump.
There is the choice of removing the pump & using either a shorter belt or an idler pulley, but the solenoids that run the system need to remain electrically connected.
The codes/check engine light could be either an O2 code or EGR problem if they didn't connect or discarded the EGR pipe that goes up to the EGR valve from the front of pass side manifold.
My JBAs have this provision & works like stock.
Hope this helps.
The cross pipe had flanges that were bolted down with smaller bolts, but the holes that the pipe went into is threaded as described.
Most people use a copper washer to positively seal, but I ran mine for years with just 2 inch stainless bolts covered in antiseize.
There are numerous threads here on what to do with the remainder of the air injection system & its pump.
There is the choice of removing the pump & using either a shorter belt or an idler pulley, but the solenoids that run the system need to remain electrically connected.
The codes/check engine light could be either an O2 code or EGR problem if they didn't connect or discarded the EGR pipe that goes up to the EGR valve from the front of pass side manifold.
My JBAs have this provision & works like stock.
Hope this helps.
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New User
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 10
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From: NYC / FL
If the holes are plugged do you need to remove the air pump? If so why?
Does anyone have a picture of the holes from the back of the motor? I recently read another thread (Smog Delete with Pics) that said the individual receive a code from this same process. I never had a cat before & I did not have a code before this, so I think my computer on the 96 is pretty understanding as far as not giving codes. However, after the header install I know have a CEL. The EGR is hooked up to the header.
Do you recommend going with a shorter belt instead of installing the delete pulley?
The truck is a non A/C model. XL Basic. This is the comment that has me a tad concerned.
"I removed the smog pump and added the Proform 68110 bracket. I also got the Dorman HELP AC Bypass Pulley 34150 in order to get the larger pulley and swap with the Proform. Everything worked perfectly!
However, I do have a 'Check Engine' light now, but I don't know why. I plugged the open valve that was left from the smog pump delete. Only the pump and hoses were removed; nothing else was tampered with.
The truck runs great."
Thank you for the bolt size help.
Does anyone have a picture of the holes from the back of the motor? I recently read another thread (Smog Delete with Pics) that said the individual receive a code from this same process. I never had a cat before & I did not have a code before this, so I think my computer on the 96 is pretty understanding as far as not giving codes. However, after the header install I know have a CEL. The EGR is hooked up to the header.
Do you recommend going with a shorter belt instead of installing the delete pulley?
The truck is a non A/C model. XL Basic. This is the comment that has me a tad concerned.
"I removed the smog pump and added the Proform 68110 bracket. I also got the Dorman HELP AC Bypass Pulley 34150 in order to get the larger pulley and swap with the Proform. Everything worked perfectly!
However, I do have a 'Check Engine' light now, but I don't know why. I plugged the open valve that was left from the smog pump delete. Only the pump and hoses were removed; nothing else was tampered with.
The truck runs great."
Thank you for the bolt size help.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,342
Likes: 1,318
From: Central Mississippi
If you have a check engine light , you have a code set in the computer from something.
96 model 150s (OBDII) don't have air pumps to begin with, but...
I believe 96 250s & up retain OBD I (and air pumps) though, & Ford seems to have made a dozen different variants of the air injection plumbing.
All the system does is help "fire off" the cats when the engine is cold.
After the warm up the solenoids vent the compressed air.
You don't have to remove the pump.
Some people gut them (I can't tell you how), some use an aftermarket idler, some people like me use a shorter belt with a more modern (more efficient at lighting off) cat.
I still get a code but not a check engine light on my 94.
You probably need to check the codes in the computer for what is causing the light.
96 model 150s (OBDII) don't have air pumps to begin with, but...
I believe 96 250s & up retain OBD I (and air pumps) though, & Ford seems to have made a dozen different variants of the air injection plumbing.
All the system does is help "fire off" the cats when the engine is cold.
After the warm up the solenoids vent the compressed air.
You don't have to remove the pump.
Some people gut them (I can't tell you how), some use an aftermarket idler, some people like me use a shorter belt with a more modern (more efficient at lighting off) cat.
I still get a code but not a check engine light on my 94.
You probably need to check the codes in the computer for what is causing the light.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Is this an F150 or an HD truck? If it's an HD truck the smog tube didn't connect to the back of the heads it connected to the exhaust manifold.. unless this isn't the original motor. And if the OEM cat is gone then you can remove all the plumbing that was attached to the air pump because it's no longer doing anything but cluttering up the engine bay, be sure to plug any vacuum lines left over.
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,342
Likes: 1,318
From: Central Mississippi
Paul, you have a good pic some where of the back of an engine sitting out.
Could you post it for him?
Could you post it for him?
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Oct 2017
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From: NYC / FL
Are there holes to plug elsewhere in the back of the motor? Or maybe a vacuum line? The long part did come out of the both of the old manifolds. The whistle / winding seems to be louder under acceleration. I thought my dad said he found some back there, but could not find anything to fit into them. I can't look at it myself until next weekend & will be traveling as soon as I fix it.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Yes there could be a vacuum line but as stated above none of this stuff serves any purpose now so just take it all out and plug the vacuum lines.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Seems the 95 F150 I had, had the air tubes run down into the forward cat. The EGR ran to the front passenger side manifold, as does my 96 E150.
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