Missed some posts, I concur that’s nice detailed work. Using red wire ties is show car quality. And using flag terminals, which at least on his current kits those are not included. Any full rework they should be as they conduct best and it’s what I’m using too.

 

I thought about that as well but didnt seem like you could get it high enough. If that is the case then for sure I will probably buy the IPR manifold and my own filter and base.

Edit: BTW I tried to rep you but it seems I must spread the love first.

 

Heater hose isn’t brake hose. Some 1” dowels and 1/4” bolts you can easily clamp them off during the filter removal.

 

I'm a little late to the party, but I've got a few cents to throw in on the IPR inline filter.

Up until last fall I had been running the Gen3 egr delete/inline filter manifold set-up for two years. It went on after flushing the hell out of the block and replacing the oil cooler. It did catch some particles, but was never so full of debris that it affected my deltas, or caused any exclaimations upon inspecting the filter. Maybe I'm just a wonder flusher, who knows.

The main problem I had is that it was always leaking. Because the outer seal is a small section o-ring, it tends to roll over and get caught in the threads. If you open the filter canister three times, you have to replace the seal or it leaks. And those seal kits are $15+shipping. The manifold was leaky too. It leaked at the oil cooler seal and both hose fittings intermittantly. Vince said it was all installation error, though it never felt like it lined-up quite right with the oil cooler nipple. And those hose fittings are less than ideal as they are AN as opposed to barbed.

I tolerated all the leaks because I had no other reason to tear down the top of the engine, until last summer when one of the hoses blew-out right above the manifold fitting. My ect was at 240 by the time I found a good place to pull over. Now I will give Vince the benefit of the doubt by admitting that I was using whatever heater hose they had at O'Reilley's and not the premium Good Year hose that he ships with the units. Still seems like a bad idea to have rubber coolant hoses so close to the turbo, and it's also a pain to adjust those hose clamps when you have leaks.

I have since gotten the hardware for the bypass set-up, but it's been sitting on my workbench since October. I'm still on the fence about putting it in. Afterall, if I flush the hell out of the block every couple years, is it really going to make a difference?

 

He definitely does not ship premium hose, the hose he ships is awful and full of pinholes. The o-rings between the manifold and the cooler cover crush upon install which is just a bad design. The manifolds are also known (or at least were known) to be some pretty bad castings that had such porosity coolant would leak directly through the manifold on some examples.

IMO his stuff consists of some great ideas with 80% execution. The R&D is too light so all the products mostly work but have problems. I also ran his remote oil cooler for about a year which was almost great but had some glaring issues and I eventually went back to a cooler in the valley.

I still have it though and one day may modify it to solve the problems, it is almost a great piece.

 

I'm sure all he is doing is buying that China sourced filter and adapting it. Taking the size of the O-Ring I'm sure you could get a better quality one from McMaster or a local fitting and bearing house.

The adaptor and hoses off of it I would have no intent on using, or the adaptor he makes for the filter. But that's just me.

 

I knew you were going to say that Jack! You passed the test! Actually it has crossed my mind, but last time I also needed the funky flat-ish gasket on the inside, and I have no idea where to get those so I bit the bullet and paid the 24 bucks.

The hose that came with the bypass fittings is Thermaid brand. Not sure of the quality but it's noticeably more stout than the hose from O'Reilly's. As for the filter adapter, well, I already have the stupid thing, so...

Wish I had seen those ebay links two years ago.

 

It was just a few months ago when I starting hunting. The aluminum remote filter bracket I highlighted has been around for decades.

All those O-ring gaskets, round or square, have to be available. I know you can get an "X" ring too.

 

I used those aluminum remote filter brackets for inline transmission filters on my last two trucks. Worked great.

The inside gasket is not an o-ring. It's shaped like a donut but has a section that's more of a bell curve. I have no idea why Vince did it that way. I went out to take a picture of it and found, to my surprise, that I had already replaced it with a chubby o-ring. Go figure.

 

In a really perfect world, they would have used an external AIR: Oil heat exchanger in the first place instead of an oil “cooler” masquerading as a coolant filter.

The permanent fix is really one of the after market oil coolers sitting in front of the radiator.

just saying.....

 

Hey brother I just read a quite lengthy post that you did about why you like the IPR filter and manifold. I bought a truck a couple years ago and then had to have a remaned engine put in with all of the problems fixed. Ok sorry back to my thing, so I have a IPR filter and manifold on my truck, a couple weeks ago i had to change the water pump. After the change all the sudden my deltas shot up, at first I thought air bubble, but yesterday I was talking to the guy who sold me the truck and he said by chance have I checked the filter to see if it might be clogged. Last night I took the filter apart and found quite a bit of sand and small metal particles in it (Pictures attached)

This picture is from the filter I did 4 clean outs on the filter this is the final clean out with all metal particles removed from sand with a magnet.
This photo is the metal that was in with the sands.
This photo is both sand and metal particles together.
The first 2 photos are on a small cottage cheese container lid for size comparison.

I am gonna put the filter back on and see if my deltas go back down to where they were before pump change. I'm wondering if the old pump was just weak and not kicking up the casting sands and the new one being stronger kicked up the sand and clogged my filter. With that being said you had stated in your @gmail.compost that you have done a back flush on your oil cooler with the high flow filter and manifold on the engine. Would you be able to tell me exactly how to do it incase I have to back flush my cooler, or know of a site on the net that would explain how to with the manifold. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. And Thank you in advance.

Gary (Yochanon)

P.S.
If you would like to just visit via email my email is gwall021971@gmail.com