I get that point trust me I do know exactly what your saying. My Sinister caught casting sand too along with metal that sluffs away inside these engines.
But casting sands not the likely source that plugs up the oil coolers on the 6.0 engines.

My current truck I cut my old oil cooler apart and it had pilings of rust particles in it. That said I bought my truck with blown head gaskets and the original owner just quit caring and didn't maintain the cooling system. It sat for 2 years before finally selling it.

So with 41,000 miles it looked like a brand new garage kept truck. Which it was but then I see the looks of the coolant and the gauge I brought along climbed to 16 psi idling in the dealers lot before I drove it on a test drive. lol
Funniest thing was salesman pitching that was perfectly normal.

Anyways I know what I went through with my two trucks in regards to the coolant filters. My first truck I was a proud peacock with my coolant filter. But not so with the current one I own today because only one filter had a positive affect in regards to getting the junk out of it. Fine stuff all day long the bypass filter will get it. In fact the bypass may very well be the one to clean slime out of the system because the coolant must pass through the organic filter pleats themselves where the IPR style SS screen is not capable of going that low of microns for sure.

But again I just don't see that as the threat to the heat exchangers that are in the cooling system.
Radiator
Oil Cooler
Heater Core

I'm really not by any stretch having any intentions of offending anyone that chose a bypass design. Only that I do not see the two designs both taking the oil cooler damaging material out of the cooling systems as needed. I also seen casting sand in the IPR unit and I installed my filter upside down per IPR instruction. But the debris hits the bottom of my bowl and stays there where when flipped upside down material can fall into the in and out lines when servicing the units filter.

Anyways to each his own, its absolutely everyones right to buy the product they feel will serve them best. I just put more info out on the big digital web in one individual website/Forum lol with my experiences and tribulations regarding these filter choices.

As log as the info is available and people are aware of the good and bad and the evil.
And all that other B/S thats not worth babbling on about.

Damn I think my arthritis is going to be in these hands before long the way I poke away on this keyboard.


Honestly Scott I wish I was your neighbor. Up there instead of down here along with all the spoon fed soft heads. lol If you do any time down in the valley you know exactly what thats all about.
I joke that pretty soon Californians are gonna have to sleep standing up just to all fit in the state.

 

I t have not been on the IPR site for some time so I forget what any of its selling for today. I thought the manifold setup was $350.00 but I'm wrong all the time in some degree or form. But I will admit that I was shocked to see that filter housing on eBay that you pulled out of your hat, it has got to be exactly what he is putting into his kit.

Now a guy bought a IPR filter from someone that had a extremely fine filter in it. He also picked up that manifold and ran his setup and had higher Delta temps with the filter in. He pulled out the filter and it was around 4-5* with it over 10*. He sent me the picture of the filter screen and it was different then what I had in mine.

So he called that happy go lucky fella at IPR and he did tell him he later went with a bigger mesh screen for the filter setup. Once he produced and marketed the manifolds he changed the filter media to keep up with the flow rates seen at the oil cooler.

I will say what IPR sells for the housing is a solid hunka chunka of burning: aluminum thats very well made. The one you sourced is much lighter design but I doubt it has any problems holding up.

I know what you mean with the oil cooler comment. I have seen so many threads as well as response posts in regards to doing back-flushes with no benefit of lower Deltra temps. I have now seen two fellas on Powerstroke.org that successfully lowered their Delta temps in the -20* range. They were both using the manifold from IPR while doing those flushes.
I will say for sure its not a common thing to be successful at but its also the first two guys that have that manifold on their trucks and pulled it off.


Theres a lot to learn on these forums that is for sure. I had my buddy get all worked up after seeing 4-5 Deltas in my truck where he was in the 10-12 Delta with his truck. So he hired his mechanic buddy to replace the oil cooler and EGR cooler.
The guy used Sinister for both only to end up at 12-14 Deltas after having it done.

I went for a ride with him in his truck and we were watching his ScanguageII at 65 mph. Sure enough he was hovering just under 15 degrees and went into a rant about the temps and what was good and bad. The next thing I see is him yanking the OBDII plug out by the cord and see the ScangaugeII thrown out his drivers window while were going 65mph.
I would have gladly taken it but was little late at the point I was ready to say anything. But didn't envision it being tossed out the window. Would have said turn around dummy but we were on Interstate 5 and no doubt became bits in no time.
LOL He said its just gonna have to do and if it gets too hot it will tell my by becoming a gutless wonder when it goes into defuel. Screw that stupid thing that just cost me $1800 and all it ever accomplished was make me nervous every time I drive this truck.

Screw that Scan thing , I just layed low with a smile.


The message learned for me was: DON'T BUY Sinister oil coolers PEOPLE. I saw how well they worked first hand all the way up to a conniption

In regards to my backflush, I used Cascade dishwashing machine liquid soap w/Dawn cleaner for flushing out my engine. Pulled thermostat and dumped everything then filled with water. Dumped in 5-6 cups of Cascade.....enough to choke a horse and went for a 35-40 mile drive. Then got home and let it all go. Pulled lower radiator hose and shoved a 3/4 garden hose that I wrapped in a towel up the lower hose.
Pulled both engine block drain ports and reinstalled the starter. Then I put another 3/4" garden hose into the manifold off oil cooler. Then I had one more hose that I stuck in whatever looked best at the time.
Also pulled the coolant tank out of the truck to gain access to the hoses to it. I had a ball valve on the end of the last hose. Then I started the truck and let it idle most of the time. But off and on I would rev the engine to get the water that was coming out of the block drain holes to shoot out with high force occasionally. I had the hose up lower radiator going full bore entire time as well as the one in the oil cooler. I ran the garden hose into all the different hoses behind the coolant tank. This went on for 3-4 hours and my road across from my house was a 900' lake for hours during the process.
Thankfully I'm not in town and out in the sticks a ways, did have a few neighbors ask WTH I was doing but they don't care what I'm doing. Did have the one tree hugger ask where I put the antifreeze though. LOL Told him its safely been placed in a container Everything in that engine was flushed out and rinsed with thousands of gallons of water in order to get the thing clean as it could get. It works extremely well to load up the lower hose with a solid water supply and the waterpump takes it all from there. It really had the fluid screaming around inside the engine. I had watched orange and even metal flakes and casting sand drain into the two 5 gallon buckets that were under the block plugs.
Also a good idea to place on under the radiators lower connection because the water pumps still pushing it through the engine back to radiator.
The dish washer soap works great and is so much more predictable then the VC9 acids. Which will almost certainly plug your oil cooler before thats all over.

It is of coarse easy to flush as long as you have a place to let a bunch of water go with regards to a trucks cooling system. There are people that will flip out and call the county whoever. If your in town go to someones place that is out in the country if at all possible. Because if you cant use large amounts of water its going to be very hard to do it enough to be clean and not cause issues later.

Last note:
What coolant filters the people spend their money is their business. I just wish them knowing the actual differences and weak and strong points.

 

I went and relooked, the heater line setup is $250, setup for inline of the coolers is now $419. The cooler manifold by itself is $89.

I think there are a lot of variations in the results depending on how the entire system is cleaned and flushed. A compromised system can require way more work then people may want to do, so the best course of action is to not get into trouble in the first place.

 

I am quite sure I paid $350.00 give or take 4 years ago for my complete setup with manifold and hoses. But I still see the difference in price worth the additional cost over a bypass setup.
Mainly because its a well engineered setup thats high on the quality side as well. And above all that the thing works as it should and there are no costs after the purchase via filters or any thing else.

You have a good point about some of these trucks show up with in-maintained cooling systems that only can be cleaned back up to a level like with a heavy dose of time and a cleaner or soap thats capable of bringing it back to a manageable level.

These 6.0 engines have a perfect flow design in the cooling system that appears to be perfect for allowing the engines garbage to accumulate garbage down in the block of the engine I have come to learn.
Then my guess is during heavy rpm's theres enough turbulence from that 74 gpm water pump to kick some of it out of the block and in the circulation of the flow paths of the cooling system with a trip towards the oil cooler. Over time the materials become a negative factor with the flow rates in the oil cooler. Which cause issues with oil temps as well as causing rising temperatures in the EGR cooler.
When all things play together at a critical level head gasket failure once all those things fracture leak and put wet stuff where it don't belong and your days goes to hell in a basket on a downhill fall..

Thats the destiny of every 6.0 above and below



The beginning of the end below. Its coming to every 6.0 owner absolutely for every 6.0 truck and thats just fact there. Just don't you put that kind of evil on me Ricky Bobby........

 

I just had a thought. Could you use the driver's side block drain port as a source? IIRC that port gets all kinds of flow when the engine is running. Run a fitting from there with an elbow or something up to your manifold/filter and then T in to the lower hose of the degas bottle.

 

I see no reason that would make a block drain plug opening would not make a excellent supply port for a full flowing setup. God knows all the debris that ends up down in the lowest point of the engines cooling system. I would have to think it would be likely the most productive outlet for connecting to a coolant filter.

The part thats becomes the challenge is the threads used on the block plugs having any hose barb adapter that also has the strange plug threads on the other side.

But as the saying goes nothings impossible.

 

The block drain ports are a common thread, I looked at fittings to extend the pass side so you can make it more convienent to drain without installing the restrictive Fumoto valves. But the problem of modifying either side as a port for a filtering loop is you run the chance of altering the flow going towards the head. While in a stock configuration we don’t see issues, but since there have been members with modified, higher output motors experiencing flash boiling type issues, obviously the head cooling is at a threshold. And it must occur often enough with modified motors for a kit to be offered to increase flow to the back of the head. So messing with that flow unless you have direct information of the flow and temperature characteristics I’d be hesitant to touch the idea.

 

Thinking outside that box,gotta love it,why we have so many fixes for the 6.0 today.

 

I always thought the IPR filter was a good idea but no way I was paying $400+ for it. The one thing that I couldn't find that I liked about the IPR kit is a 3/4" base with shutoff valves. I know I can plumb in a shutoff valve but didn't want all the clutter under the hood. I wanted something integrated into the base. Anyone find something like this?

 

You don't need the valves to shut off the filter assembly as long as you install it in the same manor as I did in my truck. That will make the coolant filter higher then the cooling system so there wont be any coolant draining out if the filer assy.

Its a little tricky getting the filter mounted up front on passenger side

 

I'm not going to repost all of mHatlen's photos, but am just marveling at the exquisite execution and attention to detail... from the battery cables to the coloring of the red + on the P2 batteries to the polished DC Power to the sleeve protection on the coolant filter hoses... well, the photo speaks for itself.

 

Almost showroom clean.

 

Interesting, thanks. By chance do have any links? I did some looking but unfortunately I got so many results for EGR coolers with the phrase "flash boiling" that trying to find one not related to EGR was a needle in a haystack. I can't think of a better phrase to use for searching.

Thanks. While I currently have the sinister bypass installed I do have the IPR filter sitting on the shelf. I might look into this as a higher flow option, but TooManyToys' warning is correct, it's important to understand the full reach of any changes we make.

 

Akblackfoot is the most recent member here who had issues and had the kit installed.

https://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-270...eturn-kit.aspx

They call it a return kit and it may be once the T/S opens, but I’d be interested seeing the flow direction under all situations.

 

Appreciate the compliments on the wiring upgrade in my truck. I am often guilty of taking things a bit too serious at times. I am really new to the expandable wire loom but fell in love with it after buying the cable upgrade kit from Ed for the 270XP.

Was a ( W O W ) moment for sure. Again Thanks fellas @Y2KW57 & wedge542