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I need a way to properly torque the wheels on my F4. According to the manual they are supposed to torque at 400-500 ftlbs. My largest torque wrench only goes to 250 ftlbs. I checked online and found several suppliers that have 3/4" drive torque limiting extensions or torque sticks to torque at 475 ftlbs. Some suppliers actually list them as Truck and Buss Budd wheel torque sticks. They are also available in 1" drive. They are listed as accurate to +or- 4% of 475 ftlbs. At $45 plus shipping it is a lot cheaper than a torque multiplier or a larger torque wrench. I have a set of 1/2" drive torque sticks that I use occasionally that work well, so I ordered one. I know there are other large truck owners here, so maybe this will help someone else.
Thanks, Mark
local industrial tool suppliers rent torque multipliers for maintenance companies. We rent them for power house and mill maintenance... check with some of your local industrial tool houses or rental places... you might find rental is cheaper than torque sticks
IMO, the torque is not critical for a lightly loaded truck used as we use them as owner operators. For a working truck in daily use, my system may not work. My air impact wrench is rated 450 lbs so I hit the nuts with it but don't allow it to rattle too long after impact.
I also paint witness marks on my lugs so I can tell at a walk around if the nut has moved. I also keep an eye open for rust streaks out from the nuts that would indicate any play between parts.
Edit: I remember guys changing wheels on these old trucks back when they were in daily use. Many had a cheater bar and jumped on it a couple times to torque them.
I never bothered to torque them when I was younger. A cheater bar or pushing the wrench with my foot always got them tight enough, but now I'm not able to do that. My 1/2" impact has about 800 ftlbs of torque and my 3/4" about 1200 ftlbs, so I need some way to limit the torque and know I have them tight enough but not too tight to damage the bolts.
Thanks, Mark
Interesting topic.......on my 49 f-4....... 19.5 budd wheels do you guys really think that 450ft mark is that important?....... the heaviest thing it hauls anymore is a latte and a doughnut........ what do you guys think?.......
I am using the 475 ftlb torque stick that I ordered. With my back issues I can't tighten them by hand anymore and my impact wrenches would torque the wheels too high without the torque stick. With proper torque there is less of a chance of a wheel coming loose and probably also less of a chance that the inner and outer rear nuts would lock together.
Mark
Interesting topic.......on my 49 f-4....... 19.5 Budd wheels do you guys really think that 450ft mark is that important?....... the heaviest thing it hauls anymore is a latte and a doughnut........ what do you guys think?.......
When the engineers came up with the 450 - 500 lb/ft torque value they were also considering tangential forces along with the normal forces involved (stud stretch, hub distortion, wheel split, etc.). But to answer your question, I hope I never hear a judge ask me "Were your wheels properly torqued?" - and a judge doesn't even have to know what that means. So I guess it's your call.
I am using the 475 ftlb torque stick that I ordered. With my back issues I can't tighten them by hand anymore and my impact wrenches would torque the wheels too high without the torque stick. With proper torque there is less of a chance of a wheel coming loose and probably also less of a chance that the inner and outer rear nuts would lock together.
Mark
Yep. 475 on the inner, 450 on the outer and you're still "legal". Let me rephrase that. That's what I do. Has nothing whatsoever to do with any legality.
Ok got ya.....I ended up using a 4' pipe on the lug wrench and jumping on it....I do know they are very tight......I'm definetly liking that torque multiplier ....
Ok got ya.....I ended up using a 4' pipe on the lug wrench and jumping on it....I do know they are very tight......I'm definitely liking that torque multiplier ....
I guess that might be ok if you got the same amount of "jump" on each nut. Maybe only 3/4 jump on the rear outers so you don't double nut them and have to use your porkchop.
I guess that might be ok if you got the same amount of "jump" on each nut. Maybe only 3/4 jump on the rear outers so you don't double nut them and have to use your porkchop.
LOL, are we still talking old trucks or have we moved on 😂
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