When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'd check out the web site for the department of standards and measures, any place that does calibration will be state certified.
I do have to warn you, though- calibration costs about twice as much as a new torque wrench.
If you are as cheap as me, weld two old sockets back-to-back to make an adaptor (or use a square drive socket). Then you can compare all your friends' torque wrenches to yours and settle the subject of calibration democratically. (This assumes you do not need traceability to government standards.)
One could also use basic physics principles and hang known weights off a torque wrench clamped horizontally in a vise by its square drive.
Last edited by acheda; Feb 25, 2007 at 09:26 AM.
Reason: typo
In the Kansas City area:
KC Calibration: 913-541-1644
Unless it is a real good professional torque wrench it is cheaper to replace. FWIW the Harbor Freight torque wrenches seem to be accurately calibrated at the factory.
There is no big trick to making a torque wrench that is accurate. Go with acheda's suggestion. You can use an eight point socket to put two torque wrenches together. Take it to a store with your socket and compare it face to face with a couple of new ones.
The old bending beam style never needs calibrating. It will not loose its ability to indicate accurately unless somehow the beam gets overheated by several hundred degrees. About the only thing you need to calibrate is to make sure the pointer is on zero when at rest.
If you had a beam style a simple fixture made from a few pieces of 2x4 would be easy to make. Use the fixture to hold the click wrench and stabilize the head of the beam wrench. Hold the fixture in a vise and watch the scale on the beam wrench to test the click point.
Use something like below. The 2x4 parts are blue. The wrench is in red. Run some nails and a 1/2" bolt thru the joints. Add shims to hold the wrench securely but it needs to "float" in the fixture. The 2x4's around the head should be long enuf to support the heads of both wrenches. The 2x4's around the handle need to be just high enuf to hold the click wrench handle and provide clearance around the beam wrench and your hand to swing it.
Last edited by Torque1st; Feb 28, 2007 at 02:54 AM.
I have a beam type, left over from my 60's engine building (ralley cars) that I use exclusively to calibrate my clic torque wrenches.
I use a socket to make the connection and vice to hold the beam wrench (heavy square handle). Has worked well and is within 1ftlb. I like the idea of the wooden framework, may try it, but that would be another piece to store and remember where I put it.
All my friends have come over to calibrate their wrenches.
Last edited by aquanaut20; Feb 28, 2007 at 10:03 AM.
If the beam wrench handle is in a bind or touching the beam any place other than the pivot pin it will not read correctly. That is why the head must be supported. The fixture above is clamped in a vise midway along the long 2x4. The click stop wrench is placed as shown in the fixture and the beam wrench handle is held by the operator so he can keep a close eye on the needle.