Help! 7.3 with problems with video
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 946
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From: Clearfield County, PA
Help! 7.3 with problems with video
So my truck was cutting out on the way home and all but shut off. My brother called me and i went out and looked around. Found that the IPR nut and spacer had fell off. Perfect problem solved... well no. It fired up and went to get it off the road and it ran horrible. Tried unplugging the ICP and it will start and idle a bit but wont run right. Tried hooking up Forscan and it found no obvious codes and i could not get the stupid thing to read live data. I did get my torque pro fire up but the only thing it would read was the rpms. Its been so long since i have been in there. I dont know where the IPR and ICP readings are even at. So to me it sounds like either an UVCH which i have had 1 issue in the past but they are new within the last 2 years. OR something with the IPR nut being off and still isnt running right from that? It also is smoking a bit more than normal. Also fuel tank is half way full and the hutch mod has been done so i dont think thats an issue. Thanks for the help!
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,807
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From: Colorado Springs
I think you may be on to something with the UVCH. That's sounds just like my truck did before I did injectors only a few would fire until warmed up. I'm thinking you're only running on 1 bank... I'm sure someone with more knowledge will show up.
Free bump if nothing else...
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Clearfield County, PA
Ok went to try and get some live data and the truck will sputter once or twice but wont start. I didnt want to drain the batteries so i will put a charger on. Will the ICP tell me if this is a HPOP failure? The IPR and ICP are new OEM within the last year. The nut is back on the IPR with no change. Only meaningful code was the ICP failure code, is this because i had unplug the plug? I tried to ohm the 42 pin harness. I went from teh hot side driver side (i think the 2nd row from bottom, to the bottom even injectors, and also did for the passenger side) is this correct? I got around 0 for all of them. Alsos ran a buzz test which sounded fine and threw no codes through scangauge. What is my next step? I plan on charging the batteries and trying to crank it an look for ICP while cranking and try to report back. Aso at 299,000 as far as a know the HPOP is stock. Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Hat Creek Ca
Zero OHMS on all of them? Either the harness(s) are loose/unplugged or you are on the wrong scale on your meter. Make sure you are on the lowest scale, you are only looking for 3 - 5 OHMS IIRC.
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Clearfield County, PA
im a bit confused how to ohm the 42 pin. Do i go from D+ to the drivers side pin (2,4,6,8) both within the harness or from a battery ground to the injector pins on the harness (bottom row)? Im going to try and ohm these again.
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It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Elk Grove, CA
If the buzz test sounded good, the injector wiring is ok.
Sounds awful. Not hearing it live makes diagnosis by sound impossible, but I'm thinking internal engine component. Eek. Pull off the 42 pin connector so it will not start, then crank the engine with the starter. You want a steady RPM. A strong variation in RPM means loss of compression on a cylinder.
Also pull the harness at the fuel bowl heater, leave it off, and replace the fuse. Maybe it's not so dire.
Covering all the bases: check the oil level and open the fuel drain lever when the pump is running, first 20 seconds after you key on ignition.
Sounds awful. Not hearing it live makes diagnosis by sound impossible, but I'm thinking internal engine component. Eek. Pull off the 42 pin connector so it will not start, then crank the engine with the starter. You want a steady RPM. A strong variation in RPM means loss of compression on a cylinder.
Also pull the harness at the fuel bowl heater, leave it off, and replace the fuse. Maybe it's not so dire.
Covering all the bases: check the oil level and open the fuel drain lever when the pump is running, first 20 seconds after you key on ignition.
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Papa Smurf
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Woodstock, GA
You're in PA ? What's the temperature ? I'd do Buzz Test FIRST. That may indicate poppet valve adjustment, if you've never done that in the past.
What oil you using... and when was it changed last ?
What oil you using... and when was it changed last ?
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Clearfield County, PA
I'll try to crank it over today and see what it sounds like. Cranking it over yesterday sounded ok but I didn't do it very long. I find it hard to believe just randomly something came apart in the motor. And yes it's been around 10 degrees give or take here. Still running 15-40 but I have for years. Also oil level is fine and it has been changed within the last 500 miles
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Colorado Springs
He said he ran a buzz test and it sounded good. Is your tach moving when you turn it over?
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Clearfield County, PA
I'll double check today to be sure. But I assume because it tried to start the other day but wouldn't so I didn't crank to long. It sounds very similar to when I had a ucvh issue before but I replaced both the harnesses but didn't replace the gasket. I would just expect to see some code showing that if that were the case
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
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From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
I'll double check today to be sure. But I assume because it tried to start the other day but wouldn't so I didn't crank to long. It sounds very similar to when I had a ucvh issue before but I replaced both the harnesses but didn't replace the gasket. I would just expect to see some code showing that if that were the case
Here is an example:
This was from my Excursion last week. It had some of the symptoms you have, did a buzz test just fine. Took it on a WOT run, then when I returned I ran another buzz test and the codes came up.
I think the "partially connected" nature of UVCH failures makes it harder to isolate. It doesn't hurt to run buzz tests under different conditions.
In this post you can hear my truck running on 4 cylinders: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17656327
In the video I had forgotten to plug in the passenger side harness, LOL. This was before any of the runs. I didn't even realize it was running on half an engine when I took the video.
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Clearfield County, PA
It seems like its very intermittent. Fuel level is over half with the hutch mod done so i dont think its sucking air. I havent added any treatment yet and it has been cold. 5 or so at night and 15 during the day. Does this sound like a fuel issue? I added a couple more videos. I ohmed the 42 pin and the valve cover gasket with a good meter and they all check out so im moving past a UCVH issue. The truck started right u and sounded fine then you could tell it was almost a miss and the engine was shaking but not real bad. I shut it off after a bit and started it again, started right up and agiain could tell there was an issue. So for a run down. UVCH should be fine, and they are also new within the past 2 or so years. the ICP and IPR are new within the last year or so. IF this sounds like a fuel gel issue, what should i do? Open the fuel bowl and maybe mix a little stanedyne with it? Any help would be great! Also zero codes that are relevant