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I finally have gotten my 86 crewcab back up and going after replacing the injectors, injector lines and pump. Now from sitting so long the batteries are a bit weak and i had planned on replacing them with 31 series truck batteries but after pricing all the cable and connectors i would need to make them work i have decided i would be best served to buy a stock replacement positive cable and 2 regular batteries. My question is what group size is original to these trucks, in the past i have always run 65 series but i have the original battery hold down brackets for this truck which fit either a group 27 or 34. What are you guys using and what brands are recommended? I have easy access to interstate and exide batteries as well as never start from wal mart and of course the original motorcraft i can get wholesale from ford. Thanks
You're correct that 65 isn't the factory for 7th gen, but it is for 9th and it's what I run in my 7th gens. Don't remember what the stock size was, it's taller and skinnier than 65.
Asking battery preference is like asking what brand of oil or blonds or brunettes....
But I'll start off, Diehard Gold's are the best, I can get 9 years out of them. Nothing else comes close to that for me. But they are very pricey these days, I've been running Interstates in recent years for the cost savings. They've been okay, but they're no Diehards...
I will agree on the die hards, they are excellent batteries and always have been but i can only get them at retail price which is a little steep for my wallet. I wish i could still get champion batteries, i used their 27F batteries for years with not a single issue. Maybe i can catch a k-mart thats going under and get a couple die hards on clearance... wishful thinking!
I was looking at these Group 31 ones from NAPA with 1125CCA. They also have battery post adapter that should allow for the use of the normal/stock battery cables. When my batteries go bad this is my plan. You may have to fiddle with the battery holder some, but for me it is worth it. Right now I have Group 65 ones in my van with 850CCA. They do okay, but as they weaken they struggle more when temps get in the single digits.
I like Group 31s; far bigger and better than the stock ones.
I'd go with the stud-type, get new crimp-ends, and use your old cables if they look decent - most ones I've seen are decent enough, though the ends are shot.
I much prefer the stud-type ends vs the post ones; they will work better and last longer too.
I like Group 31s; far bigger and better than the stock ones.
I'd go with the stud-type, get new crimp-ends, and use your old cables if they look decent - most ones I've seen are decent enough, though the ends are shot.
I much prefer the stud-type ends vs the post ones; they will work better and last longer too.
Are you talking about the copper ends that crimp on the end of the cables? These would be simple enough for 3 out of the 4 connectors, but is there a specific type you recommend for the passenger side positive stud? There is the option of doing multiple connectors attached to the single stud. If you went that rout you could end up with as many as 4 connected there if you hook the charging wire from your alternator to the positive post. Maybe even 5 if you were looking to add an aux fuse panel. How are people handing this issue?
I also use solder on lug terminals, i have a crimping press to do factory style crimps but prefer to use solder pellets. As for the passenger side positive napa sells a pass thru terminal for 2 wires with one end larger than the other for your cab power feed. Also i cannot re use my old cables because some jack wagon used 4 guage wire instead of the correct 2/0 guage
I got a paid of Group 31 from NAPA for about $100/ea. They price matched Tactor Supply, but the NAPA batteries were heavier. I shop batteries by weight, heavier is better.
I opted to make new cables. 2/0 between batteries and for grounds, 3/0 to the starter. I got connections probably frmo Del City, soldered and crimped the ends. I used solder slugs with the terminal set up in the vise, once the solder melted I cranked it tight in a hammer crimper, then liquid electrical tape and heat shrink to seal it up. You could go with stud-post adapters or put new ends on your existing cables if in good condition. I found new smaller sized car batteries were a similar or higher price than the bigger larger capacity Group 31 so a no brainer. My cables were junk so I opted to do it all at once.
If you need a good replacement cable to go from the drivers side, across the radiator to the Passenger side.
Go to you local favorite PNP type Junk Yard, and locate an older BMW with the trunk mounted battery.
It`s a huge cable big as your thumb. The price is $5 last time I bought one.
It will have the clamp for the Positive post, cut it to length and solder/crimp on your favorite end.
Good link here taking about it to confirm what I said.