When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
They are a little more expensive, but you can use a 25% off code with them.
Google for a code, but one that I used was: AGV7BX
Now, you have to buy them online in order to use this code. Set up an account, including a SpeedPoints(rewards) account).
Buy one battery at a time, and get something else with it at the same time(a single Motorcraft glow plug will work). This puts your purchase price just over $100, which is the limit for getting a $20 coupon on the next purchase.
You can then set where you want to pick it up, and choose your local Advance or CarQuest store.
Wait a couple of days until you get your $20 coupon, then buy the other battery and a couple glow plugs, enough to get the sub total up over 100, before taxes and core charge.
Do it right and you'll have paid around $100 out the door for the first battery, including taxes.
Second one around $80, effective... Or, basically you spend $200 on your batteries and get a couple of free glow plugs.
You'll then have a *second* $20 coupon for the next purchase or the rest of the glow plugs in a couple more days.
Not a bad price, I think... Otherwise, I've checked all the local stores and can't find any under $120 each...
Checking the MSDS:
Napa and Carquest Group 31s are made by East Penn
Autozone's is made by Johnson Controls
O'reilly's... some are East Penn, some are Johnson Controls(They have a half-dozen models of group 31)
Mine is 950 nom/ 1050 peak and works fine as a single.
HOw cold does it get where you are at? It is 5* here (feels like -6*). For me I have noticed the cold has a pretty big effect on cranking speed etc. Not an issue until I get in the low teens. Then it seems to crank over a lot slower. I have started it on a single battery in warmer conditions with no issues.
Another thing is that my van has rear HVAC. So that mean another big blower motor running. According to my voltage meter this has a pretty large effect on the draw. Not a huge issue if I am cruising,but since I still have a 1G alternator it makes it so I pretty much get no charge at idle if the lower is on high. My commute isn't quite long enough to get a good charge, so all this combines to run down the batteries
My plan is to switch to the larger batteries and put in a 3g alternator.
They are a little more expensive, but you can use a 25% off code with them.
Google for a code, but one that I used was: AGV7BX
Now, you have to buy them online in order to use this code. Set up an account, including a SpeedPoints(rewards) account).
Buy one battery at a time, and get something else with it at the same time(a single Motorcraft glow plug will work). This puts your purchase price just over $100, which is the limit for getting a $20 coupon on the next purchase.
You can then set where you want to pick it up, and choose your local Advance or CarQuest store.
Wait a couple of days until you get your $20 coupon, then buy the other battery and a couple glow plugs, enough to get the sub total up over 100, before taxes and core charge.
Do it right and you'll have paid around $100 out the door for the first battery, including taxes.
Second one around $80, effective... Or, basically you spend $200 on your batteries and get a couple of free glow plugs.
You'll then have a *second* $20 coupon for the next purchase or the rest of the glow plugs in a couple more days.
Not a bad price, I think... Otherwise, I've checked all the local stores and can't find any under $120 each...
Checking the MSDS:
Napa and Carquest Group 31s are made by East Penn
Autozone's is made by Johnson Controls
O'reilly's... some are East Penn, some are Johnson Controls(They have a half-dozen models of group 31)
This is the NAPA group 31 with 1125CCA. I like your idea about using the rewards program to get the battery. I have done that with other items. Gotta see if they have a good battery option.
NAPA will price match on those down to the competitor or their cost. They got within a few dollars of Tractor Supply on a pair of Group 31s, though I also bought a length of 3/0 cable from that store.
NAPA will price match on those down to the competitor or their cost. They got within a few dollars of Tractor Supply on a pair of Group 31s, though I also bought a length of 3/0 cable from that store.
Not too long ago they had them on sale for around $125 each. A price match would be great, but I may run in to them saying they are different CCA etc.
HOw cold does it get where you are at? It is 5* here (feels like -6*). For me I have noticed the cold has a pretty big effect on cranking speed etc. Not an issue until I get in the low teens. Then it seems to crank over a lot slower. I have started it on a single battery in warmer conditions with no issues.
Its gets subzero here, and we have wind almost always. So far the new engine (old battery and starter) has started up like it was 60* out. It glows a little longer, and cranks a little slower but after 15 second glow or so it roars to life with nary a miss. Coldest ive started it so far was 6* with a windchill temp of -15*, after nearly a month of sitting. Was so cold, that it idled with the high idle on, around 600rpm, when its warmed up some, it high idles at 970.
Anybody know the length of the negative battery cables? I wound up buying 2 27 group batteries and the factory pre made 2/0 positive cable from Napa, but they tried to sell me these puny 4 gauge cables like you would use on a gasser. I assume the negative cables need to be at least as large as the positive if not larger. Thanks
The negatives are shorter than the positives, and there are two of them. So I wouldn't worry as much, but IMHO 4 ga. is still too small.
4 gauge is 0.25 milliohms per foot.
1/0 gauge is 0.1 milliohms per foot.
2/0 gauge is 0.075 milliohms per foot.
To make the math simple, let's assume a cold-weather cranking current of 1000 amps, and two 2-foot-long cables in parallel (effectively one foot electrically). So, the 4-gauge negatives will drop 0.25 volt, 1/0 drops 0.1 volt, 2/0 drops 0.075 volts.
Bigger is better in general when it comes to copper, but you can see that the difference between 4-ga and 2/0 ga negative cable results in only 0.175 volts additional drop. Probably immaterial especially given the long positive run from the left battery... up to you.
I just started my truck and it is 30 degrees outside and it has a few bad glow plugs I believe. With my old setup it would have never got going in this condition but with the class 31's and a Power Master starter it was not a problem even though the truck needed to be restarted about 5 times until it was warm enough to fire the fuel and run on it's own.
Mine came from Car Quest and I used a code off the net to get them for 100 each and they were the correct mounting post to where they just dropped in with no mods.
I thought I was going to have to replace my battery cables along with this mod but now I realize you can have just mediocre battery cables and connectiions that are worn and with enough juice going through the system it will over come this flaw.....
25' of 1/0ga wire for $26. Perfect for making new cables with.
Also, I just modded my cables for my new stud-type batteries(ends were shot anyway); turns out that everything was 1/0ga EXCEPT for the wire from the left battery to the starter, which was 2/0ga.
And it all had Ford markings on it, so I think it was original...
I finally got mine all finished up and its a good thing i did it has been in the teens with highs in the 20s and 30s and that truck starts like its 90 degrees out. As far as the negative cables i wound up with 10 feet of bulk 3/0 cable which was more than i needed as it made 3 cables, 2 top post ends a box of copper lugs and a box of solder pellets, i even went so far as to find shrink tubing that has the glue inside that seals the connection when you heat it. As a final assurance of a good connection i used star washers where the grounds connect to the engine block and even got some 4 guage black wire and made new ground cables for the chassis grounds. Now i need to get my pmgr starter rebuilt and i am comsidering a 3g alternator.
Be aware that wire is useless junk, not at all suitable for battery or starter cables. It is aluminum. Be very cautious buying any wire or cable from Amazon, the vast majority is low quality insulation, low temperature rated insulation, not the advertised gauge (thick insulation, thin conductor), aluminum, or some combination thereof.
Be aware that wire is useless junk, not at all suitable for battery or starter cables. It is aluminum. Be very cautious buying any wire or cable from Amazon, the vast majority is low quality insulation, low temperature rated insulation, not the advertised gauge (thick insulation, thin conductor), aluminum, or some combination thereof.
yup, copper coated aluminum conductor that is only rated for 65 amps at 10 foot and 800 watts.
starter draw is closer to 300 amps and 3600 watts.
I've had good luck in 10 degree weather with everstart maxx 65's, new positive cable, and custom 2/0 ground cables I made. Deka was my first pick for batteries, but by the time I bought a Sam's club card, it was $50 more than buying Walmart ones.
