Figured out my oil leak is the seals at base of turbo. Research shows the way to replace seals and doesn't look too bad. Saw several posts of people who just deleted EBPV while they were already there. Is this a smart move or keep it stock? I don't wanna start throwing codes. Where is the best place to purchase good seals?

 

I bought the EBPV delete pedestal from Clay, installing it this week.

 

It’s best to delete Garett brand pedestal is about 100 the f650 and 750 don’t have the air it’s unessary.

 

 

Delete it. Especially with you being in FL. Its only there to allow for a faster warm up in cold weather. The rest of the time, its just an obstruction in the exhaust, and a source of leaks and other headaches.

I would not waste money on a Garrett pedestal though. They are actually about $130 from RiffRaff. I bought a Rotomaster brand "blank" pedestal from RockAuto, and have had no problems. It is currently $87.89 at RockAuto.

Don't forget the exhaust outlet adapter on the turbo as well. That's where the actual butterfly for the EBPV is located. It needs to be removed if deleting the EBPV. RockAuto has that too, also Rotomaster, for about $68. Some people "gut" the stock piece, but then you need to worry about welding up the shaft holes in a piece of cast iron. Just buy the new one.

Removing the EBPV, and leaving the harness connector for it unplugged, will set a couple of "soft codes", (P0475, P0476) but will not light the CEL, and will not have amy effect on engine operation. DieselOrings.com sells a resistor you can plug into the plug, to fool the pcm and stop the code from setting, but its not really needed.

 

Thanks for the advice. it is currently dripping a couple drops a day and staining driveway

 

I bought everything from diesel o rings. If you buy the pedestal they ship for free. At least they did last month when I did mine. I think everything all together was 208. I'm in Michigan and have noticed no difference in the way the truck warms up with it gone.

 

I drive in the exact opposite situation from what you do in the "other" corner of the country - mountainous terrain and cold climate, etc. I also tow heavy (class IV or V), so I use the hell out of my engine braking... even on the flat. If you have no intention of moving to a colder climate, or to ever use an engine brake, then I would replace the pedestal with an EBPV delete, and throw the resistor in there to eliminate the code.

If I were to take on this project, I would order everything from Riffraff Diesel. Places like Rock Auto and the other national brand auto parts stores have a purchasing department guy that looks through catalogs for goodies they can easily sell. If it turns out the product is Chinese, so be it... they are substantial enough to cover plenty of returns, and it's no biggy to them. Besides, the purchasing manager probably drives a Prius.

Now... take a small vendor like Riffraff Diesel and Diesel O-Rings, and you are dealing with one of us - a diesel owner, who knows the frustration of doing things twice. Product purchases are made with a little more givachit because they have skin in the game, and they personally are standing right behind that product as they push it across the digital counter. Problem? You pick up the phone, and guess who answers: The guy that selected that product to sell, and the guy who's going to make it right. If that happens too much, you know he won't tolerate that and he'll find a better product to put on the shelf. We can then collectively benefit from what everybody before us has learned. Your call.

 

I deleted mine with a pedestal from RiffRaff and then the high flow turbine outlet from RiffRaff.

As Tugly said, I live in a warmer climate and do not use engine braking, but I do have a manual transmission that I use to slow me down when towing heavy. If I had an automatic transmission, I may have kept the EBPV for engine braking tunes/purposes only.

 

Who is Clay, and how do i get in touch with him and how much?

 

Clay is the owner of Riffraff diesel. Google search the business name and it will be at the top. He is very helpful and knows these trucks better than 90% of us on here.

 

I would definitely suggest going with the garret parts as well. I just finished doing this this past weekend and was not hard at all. I ordered everything from dieselorings.com and it all came quick. I ordered the resistor as well so I woudn’t have any codes and all seems to be working quite well so far. I’m in Florida as well and mine was leaking so just got rid of ebpv pedestal and put a high flow output on the turbo as well. While your in that far if you haven’t rebuilt your turbo I would suggest doing so as well. I found mine to be in bad shape and only have 142k on the clock. While you have the turbo out it’s an easy extra step. I got the rebuild kit from spturboost.com and it was everything you need. IIRC they also have the pedastools and outlets so you could get everything in one place. But both are excellent people and highly recommended around here.

 

I'm another deleter and am happy with it. I used the delete pedestal from Clay (Riffraff) and made my own code eliminator plug with parts from Bob at Diesel O-rings. I've been running this way for over three years now, and haven't had a single issue. For context, my 2WD F250 is a pavement princess and the only thing it typically hauls is my own large carcass, though I have towed a 4-wheel vehicle trailer loaded with a small to mid size SUV several times in the past couple of months, and had no issue then either.

 

I want mine back...

 

Dan, if you are serious about this I still have the pedestal and outlet (I am 99% sure) sitting on a shelf in my garage. Hit me up via PM and maybe we can work something out at a very low cost to you.