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Yep, give 'em a twist and pull, but don't get in a hurry about it. The pins may be welded to the sockets by corrosion. Let the penetrating oil do its job.
In looking at the wiring diagram link in post #5 by AZ66F100, I don't see how the headlights can be affected by a bad ignition switch.
Wire number 37 (black with yellow stripe) off the hot side of the starter relay provides power to a junction with wire 21A (yellow, B for Battery on the ignition switch) and wire 25 (black with orange stripe, power to the light switch). So, the lights should work even if the ignition switch is bad.
Since you don't have lights either, your problem may be in that 8-pin connector. The black wire with yellow stripe from the starter relay is in that connector. It provides power to both the ignition switch and light switch.
But that power wire goes from that connector to a junction (somewhere) with 5 wires in it, the black with yellow, a black with orange, 2 yellow and one red. I have no idea what it looks like or where it is located under the dash.
In looking at the wiring diagram link in post #5 by AZ66F100, I don't see how the headlights can be affected by a bad ignition switch.
Wire number 37 (black with yellow stripe) off the hot side of the starter relay provides power to a junction with wire 21A (yellow, B for Battery on the ignition switch) and wire 25 (black with orange stripe, power to the light switch). So, the lights should work even if the ignition switch is bad.
yeah I think I have narrowed it down to being the pin connection..... have replaced everything under the hood electrical wires other than the wires, checked the grounds and cleaned them up, so the only thing I haven't touched is the pin connector since I wasn't sure how it came apart, plus it being really dirty etc.
im just hoping one day I go out there and everything works lol
You don't have the type of dash panel that has those gauges so you don't have to worry about that.
Where is that black an yellow wire connected on your fender apron? You should have a junction block with the alternator wire and that blk/yel wire and a short jumper wire to the Bat side of your starter relay. Make sure you have a good connection there. I'm going to post a picture of my fender apron and I hope it doesn't confuse things. I have the oil an amp gauges so there is a harness on mine that you don't have. But imagine that Black/red wire going to that junction block instead of that circuit breaker. that is what your wiring should look like.
Here is what mine looks like... not as clean as yours lol
Might try probing the yellow and black wire to where it meets a junction, if it has power to the junction, but not after, could you run a battery jumper to there to see if lights and gauges work?
yeah I think I have narrowed it down to being the pin connection..... have replaced everything under the hood electrical wires other than the wires, checked the grounds and cleaned them up, so the only thing I haven't touched is the pin connector since I wasn't sure how it came apart, plus it being really dirty etc.
im just hoping one day I go out there and everything works lol
OK, so I see both connectors there have a black with yellow stripe wire in them. The wiring diagram shows the wire you're chasing in the connector with 9 wires into 8 pins on the engine side. The other connector has only 7 pins with 7 wires on the engine side.
I believe from your pics the lower connector is the one you want to open up. But since it will be harder to get to, I'm betting the problem is with the junction under the dash.
I believe from your pics the lower connector is the one you want to open up. But since it will be harder to get to, I'm betting the problem is with the junction under the dash.
Don't you put that voodoo on me Ricky Bobby! lol
im going to try the penatrating oil method tonight... let the oil sit over night and tomorrow after i get off work try and slowly pry it apart to see what i am dealing with. hopefully i can succeed in getting the two apart.
as far as the connecting disconnecting, does it disconnect right at the firewall or is the connecter shown, 2 pieces where the female side sticks out some from the firewall with the male side plugging into it?
i am determine to get this truck running again, if not will be selling lol
as far as the connecting disconnecting, does it disconnect right at the firewall or is the connecter shown, 2 pieces where the female side sticks out some from the firewall with the male side plugging into it?
i am determine to get this truck running again, if not will be selling lol
Don't sell it because of this little setback... Like most problems on older vehicles, the answer is simple once you know what it is.
Both of those connectors pull apart from the engine side of the firewall. One half stays plugged into the firewall. I haven't pulled mine apart, so I have no idea which side is male and which is female.
Well have some news..... truck is running and have lights and all. Issue ended up being the main black wire. At the connection at the wall it had some corrosion. Took some sandpaper to clean them up and boom it works lol.
Well have some news..... truck is running and have lights and all. Issue ended up being the main black wire. At the connection at the wall it had some corrosion. Took some sandpaper to clean them up and boom it works lol.
Great news! Glad you got it fixed.
When you say the "main black wire", do you mean black with yellow stripe? The one going into the 8-pin connector at the firewall?
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