1969 No crank need help
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Harrisburg, SD
1969 No crank need help
I was cleaning up some wiring today and when I was done I couldnt get the ol bronc to crank over. If I jump the Solenoid it starts right up. I switched the solenoid off my 1972 Mach 1, thinking that the solenoid was bad. Same thing. any one got a nice place to start I know the whole trucks needs a wiring harness...I pulled the speedo/gauge panel out and had cleaned up some crappy wiring that was done by the previous owner. I only did one wire at a time so I know that i didnt mess any thing up. Does the "I" terminal go to the ign switch? then when it gets power it should get power to the "s" terminal am I right? So I was testing the "S" terminal for 12v with a pal holding the key in the start position, nothing. I tried to check some fuses under the dash but I got dark and garage is full. Which fuse in the panel is for the IGN?
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Southern Oregon USA
Red with blue stripe should go to the solenoid S terminal. Do you have any power to the Bat terminal at the ignition switch?
The circuit for the ignition switch is wired from the pos side of the starter solenoid, through a fusible link. It then goes through the firewall, to a plug that allows the wire to go through the ammeter. After that, it goes to a splice which feeds the ignition switch and also goes to the fuse block.
I'm thinking that the plug at the ammeter is not connected or that the fusible link may be bad. Check for power after the fusible link and at the connection where the wire goes through the ammeter.
HTH,
Jason
The circuit for the ignition switch is wired from the pos side of the starter solenoid, through a fusible link. It then goes through the firewall, to a plug that allows the wire to go through the ammeter. After that, it goes to a splice which feeds the ignition switch and also goes to the fuse block.
I'm thinking that the plug at the ammeter is not connected or that the fusible link may be bad. Check for power after the fusible link and at the connection where the wire goes through the ammeter.
HTH,
Jason
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Elder User
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From: Harrisburg, SD
I checked all of the connections, I found a break/badly broken in the wire to the ammeter, I fixed that but still no start. Right now I have the ign. switch hanging down and no key cylinder in it, i was turning the switch manually with a flat head screwdriver, (i didnt put it back together because I plan on ordering a new one soon) My fusible link, (though not from the factory) is under the dash. I have 12V on both sides of it (Previous owner was not an electrician) I do have a relay and an "solenoid" looking set up that is on the passenger inner fenderwell. One of the wires runs to the + side of the Starter solenoid, I had never touched this set up when it decided not to crank. I am kind of leaning toward bad Ign. Switch....
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Harrisburg, SD
I have some that I found on the internet, but the previous owner had hacked things up so bad and had things all re-routed. Im so close to just ordering a centech and being done with it.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,594
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From: Southern Oregon USA
Do you have power at the ignition switch? Do you get 12V at the other terminals on the switch when you turn the key?
Jason
Jason
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Elder User
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From: Harrisburg, SD
I do have 12V at the ign. switch. I have not checked the other terminals coming out of the switch though. I believe there are only 3 terminals I noticed when I pulled it apart today, I had 12V at the stud on the back side for sure... the ammeter is the two terminals at the bottom of the gauge cluster correct? I bypassed that to see if It would start but got nothing. It must be behind the dash because I can start the bronc with a screwdriver if I jump the terminals at the solenoid...
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,594
Likes: 2
From: Southern Oregon USA
The ammeter is the gauge with the loop at the back (approx 1/4") that the large gauge black/ yellow wire goes through. The 2 connectors at the bottom of the cluster is the instrument voltage regulator.
If it is wired like original, there should be 4 wires at the ignition switch.
Battery
Accessory
Ignition
Crank
The Crank wire that you are looking for is red/ blue. If you only have 3 wires, it may be possible that one came loose and is under the dash. Also, some aftermarket universal switches don't have a Accessory circuit and those wires are connected on the same post.
Jason
If it is wired like original, there should be 4 wires at the ignition switch.
Battery
Accessory
Ignition
Crank
The Crank wire that you are looking for is red/ blue. If you only have 3 wires, it may be possible that one came loose and is under the dash. Also, some aftermarket universal switches don't have a Accessory circuit and those wires are connected on the same post.
Jason
