Bought a 2000 ford f150 4.2l three days ago. I test drove the truck for 20 mins and returned the next day to buy it.

the truck has paperwork that says the rebuilt motor has 2000miles on it and is spotlessly clean. It ran good on the 2hr drive home, until going over a long mountain climb (4 miles uphill) where it lost power.

here is what I know...

1. The dash temperature gauge is halfway to hot when the key is on without starting cold. After starting it pegs hot within 10- 20 seconds. The check engine light and the oil/over heat light also on constantly. It was like that when I first bought it.

2. It's not overheating, and the top hose can easily be squeezed the whole time it's warming up. Once warm and after 2 hrs driving the top hose is never overly hot, nor is the reservoir, doesn't smell hot, look hot feel hot, nor is there oil in antifreeze or water in engine oil. This engine is not overheating.

3. The codes... I reset them, and retested and they came back same... Here is what I have... P1285,p1409,p0155,p0161,p0135,p0141,p0443,P0340 plus a code that says society of automotive engineers engine over tempature condition non-mil

4. Today truck barely starts cold, takes about 10 attempts, then starts and runs at idle perfect. Can drive for 30 seconds then barely runs or dies. Then always restarts idles runs...dies.

don't know where to start??? I looked for wires burnt by exhaust... Looked for vacuum leaks...nothing looks good under hood.

help...lol

 

Oh...it manual transmission... And sometimes it revs up perfect in neutral and then it sometime retested up like it's skipping or running on less cylinders. It's dying idling in neutral in 30 seconds to a couple minutes.

 

The first thing you do is look up the code descriptions.
See what's going on then think! why would you have all these 'various' different codes?
Obviously the motor won't run very well with all these conditions present.
The overheat sense condition, by itself puts the PCM in limp mode.
My bet is a harness has come apart or burnt on exhaust, shorts or crosses etc.
It may also have blown fuses.
It appears the issue came about long after the motor was replaced so got missed.
Call it poor workmanship.
You now have to get in there and find the issue.
Simple as that.
Good luck.

 

i did look them up.. All four O2 sensors... And P0340 is that camshaft position sensor.

i have also discovered that Fuze #23 was missing. I replaced it and disconnect battery for 30mins then it performed much better... But still died after 15 mins of idling. Tomorrow I will remove the camshaft sensor and inspect it.

 

Leave the camshaft sensor alone for now.

If F23 was "missing", that explains most of your issues with codes and the engine's running. Most of the actuators that control engine operation as well as the cam sensor are fed from that circuit. As the fuse was "missing", that should give you a big clue as to what to look for going forward. I'd hazard a guess that you'll find it is now blown (again) so you're back to the same initial crippled state of engine operation.

FWIW, the most common cause of a blown F23 is due to wiring damage from recent maintenance or repairs, most often related to the wiring harnesses for the O2 sensors getting on the exhaust and melting. Since your engine was recently replaced, I'd also be on the lookout for pinched or nicked wiring caused by a ham-handed mechanic not paying close enough attention.

 

How right you are...

now what? That's not easy to even see in there... Off to search forum...

 

Good deal.
I was a little concerned you was not getting on board with the logic according to your next reply..
Good luck.

 

that portion of the wiring harness comes from a large Grey plug at the firewall, and goes over to the manual transmission, and then farther back. I fixed the problem in the picture. But I fear that is not all that is wrong with it, it has a section full of taped wire nuts.

I would like to replace this wiring harness. can these be purchased online or do I need to go to a Ford dealer? How do I find a part#? What's it called?

 

Quick update I replaced the missing Fuze. Still had the P1285 so I drove 2hrs for a new cylinder head temperature sensor... Replace and running... And running code free for right now. Just in time to plow snow tomorrow.

 

What I wanted you to learn from this is there takes some diagnostic thought to things before you act.
I concluded from a far distance behind a computer what your issue most likely was from the codes and drive cycles.
It save money and time plus builds self confidence.
.
I cheat a little in that I have helped others for many years by telephone in the middle of the night solve issues with large computer systems that could not be shut down while testing and troubleshooting. The documents used would fill a small room.
Good luck.

 

Thanks for your help Bluegrass. Fingers crossed the check engine light stayes off till I can get it inspected.

 

If you have an emissions inspection pending, be mindful of 1) the OBDII readiness monitors and 2) how many "Incomplete" monitors your jurisdiction allows. No sense wasting time going for an inspection if the system won't pass due to the lack of readiness.

 

I understand... What's the normal cycle or miles for those incomplete readings? I'm in NY.

 

As long as it takes.