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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Frame resto question

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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 07:01 AM
  #1  
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Frame resto question

Ok, so I am getting ready to take my frame in for sandblasting. I have read here about all the brands of rust converters and opinions on them. My question is, once I get it back how to I treat it? Do I apply a good rust converter or something else. It won't get done the same day, maybe not the same week. lol

If it were yours what would you do? Thanks
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 07:24 AM
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If they do a good job with the sandblasting you won’t need a rust converter type product. You just need to get a coat of primer on it before it starts to rust.

Rust converter is for rust, not clean metal.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 07:55 AM
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You'll want to spray it with a good epoxy primer as soon as you can. Like Effie said though, you won't need a rust converter after you get it back from blasting. If there is still that amount of significant rust. You'll want to cut that section out and replace it as it will just spread.

Rust converters would not do anything to convert large amounts of rust.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 08:39 AM
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I just got done doing this to my 66 c10. We had it sandblasted and then powder coated. $700 for frame, rear end and misc. parts. That included the blasting.
Were doing the same with our F1 build.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 10:30 AM
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Ok thanks. I was thinking rust converter wasn't going to do much since the frame should be clean. No major rust on it, mostly surface rust but would take hours to wire wheel it. Any recommendations on a good epoxy primer and source?
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 04:07 PM
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Are you set up to spray paint? If you are and plan to do your own painting you should find a local paint supplier. There are a number of different paint brands. In PPG, DP 40 is a black epoxy primer, there are others. The cost of good automotive paints are significant. I tallied up all of my body shop supplies to do my truck, over $2K. That is doing every surface.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 08:25 PM
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Might be worth looking the frame over real closely before anything. Do you know that it's straight? There may be repairs needed due to rust that was hidden. Any mods planned?
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 08:28 PM
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I powder coated mine.
Expensive, but, the best treatment , IMO.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 10:53 PM
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Frame restoration

Purplewg
Not knowing what you plan to do to your vehicle, you might want to take a different approach. When I started on the frame of my 51 F1, I thought I would sand blast and powdercoat my frame. Then I thought about the things I was planning to do to my truck and decided to clean my frame with wire wheels and a harbor freight angle grinder.

My son in law and I worked on it for a couple of hours knocking off the dirt, crud, and rust. Fortunately, the rust was very light (CA Truck). After cleaning it we coated it with a rust neutralizer and let it sit overnight. The next day I powerwashed it, let it dry, wire wheeled any spots that we thought needed more attention, and power washed it again.

It was summer time (around 90 degrees) and it dried pretty quickly. I sprayed it with Rustolium (sp) dark grey primer.

As I continued through the year working on the truck, I found that I needed to make some mods to the frame ( soft mount Jag IFS, Jag IRS, boxing plates for the front of the frame, moving crossmembers, etc.) When I was done, I sprayed gloss black Rustolium on the frame. This enabled me to touch up the frame as necessary when I needed to make other changes.

I saved the cost of sand blasting and powdercoat which would have cost me $1000. Now, this is what I did and may or may not work for you. I am just throwing out my 2 cents. If I had powdercoated the frame, I would have had to grind off powder coat to make my modifications.

Hope this helps

Thanks

Dan
 
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by burnettd01
Purplewg
Not knowing what you plan to do to your vehicle, you might want to take a different approach. When I started on the frame of my 51 F1, I thought I would sand blast and powdercoat my frame. Then I thought about the things I was planning to do to my truck and decided to clean my frame with wire wheels and a harbor freight angle grinder.

My son in law and I worked on it for a couple of hours knocking off the dirt, crud, and rust. Fortunately, the rust was very light (CA Truck). After cleaning it we coated it with a rust neutralizer and let it sit overnight. The next day I powerwashed it, let it dry, wire wheeled any spots that we thought needed more attention, and power washed it again.

It was summer time (around 90 degrees) and it dried pretty quickly. I sprayed it with Rustolium (sp) dark grey primer.

As I continued through the year working on the truck, I found that I needed to make some mods to the frame ( soft mount Jag IFS, Jag IRS, boxing plates for the front of the frame, moving crossmembers, etc.) When I was done, I sprayed gloss black Rustolium on the frame. This enabled me to touch up the frame as necessary when I needed to make other changes.

I saved the cost of sand blasting and powdercoat which would have cost me $1000. Now, this is what I did and may or may not work for you. I am just throwing out my 2 cents. If I had powdercoated the frame, I would have had to grind off powder coat to make my modifications.

Hope this helps

Thanks

Dan

I apologize to the original poster, this is off topic.

Dan,
Nice chassis! Different colors but similarities. I started with ss cherry bombs seen in the picture below. I did want Willard to talk to me , however, he yelled at me! I swapped to a set of the less $ Borla's, just right.

For the topic, I sandblasted my frame and painted after doing the mods. Note: Willard was a California truck.

 
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 08:03 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 49willard
Are you set up to spray paint? If you are and plan to do your own painting you should find a local paint supplier. There are a number of different paint brands. In PPG, DP 40 is a black epoxy primer, there are others. The cost of good automotive paints are significant. I tallied up all of my body shop supplies to do my truck, over $2K. That is doing every surface.
Yeah, I can spray the frame ok. Don't plan of painting the body myself.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 08:05 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Might be worth looking the frame over real closely before anything. Do you know that it's straight? There may be repairs needed due to rust that was hidden. Any mods planned?
No rust through on the frame. Mostly surface rust. No obvious signs of any damage to the frame.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 08:11 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by burnettd01
Purplewg
Not knowing what you plan to do to your vehicle, you might want to take a different approach. When I started on the frame of my 51 F1, I thought I would sand blast and powdercoat my frame. Then I thought about the things I was planning to do to my truck and decided to clean my frame with wire wheels and a harbor freight angle grinder.

My son in law and I worked on it for a couple of hours knocking off the dirt, crud, and rust. Fortunately, the rust was very light (CA Truck). After cleaning it we coated it with a rust neutralizer and let it sit overnight. The next day I powerwashed it, let it dry, wire wheeled any spots that we thought needed more attention, and power washed it again.

It was summer time (around 90 degrees) and it dried pretty quickly. I sprayed it with Rustolium (sp) dark grey primer.

As I continued through the year working on the truck, I found that I needed to make some mods to the frame ( soft mount Jag IFS, Jag IRS, boxing plates for the front of the frame, moving crossmembers, etc.) When I was done, I sprayed gloss black Rustolium on the frame. This enabled me to touch up the frame as necessary when I needed to make other changes.

I saved the cost of sand blasting and powdercoat which would have cost me $1000. Now, this is what I did and may or may not work for you. I am just throwing out my 2 cents. If I had powdercoated the frame, I would have had to grind off powder coat to make my modifications.

Hope this helps

Thanks

Dan
Thanks Dan. My logic was to stop any future rust from happening while I work on it. I do plan some mods after the blast. Boxing in the frame, IFS, and some other small things. I figure the epoxy primer would hold me till I am ready to paint. I can touch up areas where I have to cut/weld. Once all that is done, I can paint the whole thing. I saw in your pics where you removed the running board hangers and then bolted them back on. I should probably to that to treat the area behind them and as the blasting can't get there.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 02:58 PM
  #14  
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Frame Restoration

Bill
A Lot of what I have done was based on the ideas that you and others have done. I apologise for stealing ideas but they were good ones and I couldn't help it - my truck is much better for it.

My truck is loud. I am going to wait until it's totally driveable to decide if I am going to change the mufflers.

Willard is looking good and is a special truck. Thanks for all your help.

Purplewg
I didn't remove my running board mounts, those bolts are for fuel line and pressure regulator mounted on the inside of the frame. I used a small wire brush and Evaporust to get as much rust and dirt out of the mounts. They came out pretty good. I think they will last for my lifetime and others as well.

Good luck with your project and post pictures with your updates.

Thanks

Dan
 
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Old Dec 24, 2017 | 06:52 AM
  #15  
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Well, I finally got the frame back from blasting. Their blaster broke so it took a little longer. I also got the Jag IFS torn completely apart and started cleanup. I am not starting a build thread yet because I have no idea when I will get back on the project with enough time to actually accomplish something.

After a quick clean I wiped the frame down with phosphoric acid to hopefully delay flash rust for a while. I didn't see the need to paint the frame only to have to grind it back off in areas where I will need to do some welding.


phosphoric acid treated



This is completely torn apart now.
 
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