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Hi folks, I have a recurring issue with my '48 F-3 that I would like to get sorted once and for all. Seems to happen every year when the cold weather hits--an off-idle stumble where the throttle response is interrupted for about a second, then the rpms "catch up" all at once with a perceptible jerk, and then normal operation resumes until my driving next brings me back to deceleration, and then again.
The engine is a 6-cylinder and is in tune. New points, condensor and rotor 1,000 miles ago, points set with dwell meter at 36 degrees, timing set at mark.
I'm thinking this is a carb issue, because when I run it partially choked, the problem is lessened; it ceases altogether in warm weather. This is an original Ford 1-barrel carb, with the three settings for accelerator pump set at the richest because that's where it always ran the best. Could it be the accelerator pump shot? Any thoughts to help me?
You're thinking correctly and troubleshooting right. But, keep in mind a lean fuel mixture is a lot harder to ignite. Consequently Richening the air/fuel mixture is an easy way to compensate for a weak ignition.
With the engine static, turned off, look down the carburetor throat and work the throttle. You should be getting a squirt of fuel starting with the movement of the throttle and continue thru full movement of the throttle.
I was thinking along the lines of weak ignition as well, and trying to figure how the cold weather component factors into things....cold air is denser than warm and the air molecules are packed closer, which I guess strengthens the air part of the A/F mix in cold weather. Thus the better response when the fuel is richened. But this only occurs coming off idle, and I'm already at the strongest setting for the accelerator shot.
BTW I have run it with the air cleaner both on and off...doesn't make any difference.
I will put my Christmas money on the accelerator pump in the carb producing a weak squirt of fuel. The cold is causing something to shrink or stick, resulting in a less than adequate shot of fuel. I would check the the accelerator pump diaphragm and the check ball after doing as Ray directed.
If all the carb suggestions don't change anything then I would be highly suspect of a vacuum leak. What does an undampened vacuum gauge show during those symptoms?
I don't own a vacuum gauge. I wonder if I should buy one. I will check the accelerator pump shot though and see if it is providing a shot throughout throttle movement. If not, I will have to remove the carb to my workbench and take it apart.
I think I replace the accelerator pump diaphram while I have things apart. I will also replace the baseplate gasket (can't remember having done this--have owned the truck since 1970) while I'm at it.
Vacuum gauges are invaluable. You can fine tune carburetor settings and ignition timing, check for vacuum leaks, and check for burned valves and valve lash that's too tight. And they are cheap. Some even have a fuel pump pressure scale. Don't get the type for dash mounting because they are dampened, get the large 3" hand-held dial type with various hose connections included.
Idle mixture set out out of spec can mimic a weak accelerator pump shot too. It is important for preventing flat spots or hesitation. And gasoline is a lot different today.
OK, upon inspection (in between xmas obligations) here is what I found. The accelerator pump shot is weak and not entirely consistent. Also, after having worked the throttle a couple times there is a slight but noticeable leak of gas coming from under the accelerator pump shaft.