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When I did my engine last year, my machinist said the only way to properly do it was with a solid lifter in place of the hydraulic, since it simulates the measurement of a fully pumped up lifter.
I had one solid lifter and went down the valve train one by one and measured each push rod individually. (I ended up with 3 different lengths for what it's worth).
Cover the tip of the valve stem with a dry erase marker. Install the solid lifter. Install the pushrod length checker. Install the rocker arm and tighten it down just until there's zero lash. (Unlike a hydraulic, it'll be instant, so go slow). Then, roll the engine over a few times and remove the rocker. If the wear line is out toward the edge of the valve stem away from the pushrod, shorten the length checker. If it's toward the edge on the side of the pushrod, lengthen it. Repeat until the wear mark is within the center 3rd.
Do not take any preload into account when measuring. That's done when you adjust the valves after it's all said and done.
Why would your machinist want to simulate a "fully pumped up lifter" at the end of its travel? He must not understand that the way a hydraulic works is to have the pushrod / lifter plunger located somewhere in the middle of its travel in the lifter bore.
I just meant one that's pumped up, which is something you can't easily do with a hydraulic lifter when the engine isn't running. A solid lifter is set so that it's in that range that a hydraulic lifter would be when it's running, just without the cushion of oil.
I didn't on mine and I used roller rocker arms which require more precision than stamped steel.
After running them for a couple thousand miles, the wear mark on the valve stem is right in the middle.
If you were to do so, add around 0.050".
However, when I was measuring my push rods, I had to make changes of around 0.100" or so to really see any change in where the rocker tip was riding, so 0.050" isn't going to make a lot of difference.
Maybe if you were working on a race motor that saw 8000 RPMs or something, you'd want it to be that perfect.
AB -- Thanks for the reply. I am going to run 1.7 roller rockers on this build, max RPM will be around 5700. I will do the same .050 & .100 check on my unit to see what the roller/valve tip pattern looks like.
I'm really happy with the roller rockers on mine. I know it's built to go to around 5500 - 6000 RPMs, but I just haven't gotten myself to go over 5k yet.
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