The ole, bouncing “hopping” when breaks applied
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 337
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From: Bellville TX.
The ole, bouncing “hopping” when breaks applied
After changing u-joints, shocks all around, breaks, hubs, 2 calipers,
i still have the hopping when breaks applied hard.....I started out just doing needed work on my 2000 250 SD 4x4 but was attacking this issue too. I need tires on the rear and plan on getting an alinement.....
the front tires are wearing funny an was going to purchase new ones for the rear and have the new ones put on the front.
balljoints, tie rod’s all look good. Also was going to replace the front stabilizer shock....
anything else anyone can think of to try to get rid of the bouncing when breaking hard?
thanks
i still have the hopping when breaks applied hard.....I started out just doing needed work on my 2000 250 SD 4x4 but was attacking this issue too. I need tires on the rear and plan on getting an alinement.....
the front tires are wearing funny an was going to purchase new ones for the rear and have the new ones put on the front.
balljoints, tie rod’s all look good. Also was going to replace the front stabilizer shock....
anything else anyone can think of to try to get rid of the bouncing when breaking hard?
thanks
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 337
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From: Bellville TX.
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From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
After changing u-joints, shocks all around, breaks, hubs, 2 calipers,
i still have the hopping when breaks applied hard.....I started out just doing needed work on my 2000 250 SD 4x4 but was attacking this issue too. I need tires on the rear and plan on getting an alinement.....
the front tires are wearing funny an was going to purchase new ones for the rear and have the new ones put on the front.
balljoints, tie rod’s all look good. Also was going to replace the front stabilizer shock....
anything else anyone can think of to try to get rid of the bouncing when breaking hard?
thanks
i still have the hopping when breaks applied hard.....I started out just doing needed work on my 2000 250 SD 4x4 but was attacking this issue too. I need tires on the rear and plan on getting an alinement.....
the front tires are wearing funny an was going to purchase new ones for the rear and have the new ones put on the front.
balljoints, tie rod’s all look good. Also was going to replace the front stabilizer shock....
anything else anyone can think of to try to get rid of the bouncing when breaking hard?
thanks
Before replacing any more parts (and wasting more money), I suggest you measure brake rotor runout with a dial indicator to see what readings you obtain (yes, even on brand new brake rotors), beginning with the front brake rotors (where most braking feedback will be noticed). It wouldn't be the first time I've had bad-out-of-box new parts, and likely won't be the last time.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2017
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From: Bellville TX.
ANY time there is a complaint of shimmy, shudder or vibration occurring DURING BRAKING, it ALWAYS comes back to the brake rotor or drum surface. I can tell you I've pulled my hair out more than my share of times during my last almost thirty years of turning wrenches, by making the assumption new parts were "good" parts.
Before replacing any more parts (and wasting more money), I suggest you measure brake rotor runout with a dial indicator to see what readings you obtain (yes, even on brand new brake rotors), beginning with the front brake rotors (where most braking feedback will be noticed). It wouldn't be the first time I've had bad-out-of-box new parts, and likely won't be the last time.
Before replacing any more parts (and wasting more money), I suggest you measure brake rotor runout with a dial indicator to see what readings you obtain (yes, even on brand new brake rotors), beginning with the front brake rotors (where most braking feedback will be noticed). It wouldn't be the first time I've had bad-out-of-box new parts, and likely won't be the last time.
ya know.....Ive thought about that. thanks
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 922
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ANY time there is a complaint of shimmy, shudder or vibration occurring DURING BRAKING, it ALWAYS comes back to the brake rotor or drum surface. I can tell you I've pulled my hair out more than my share of times during my last almost thirty years of turning wrenches, by making the assumption new parts were "good" parts.
Before replacing any more parts (and wasting more money), I suggest you measure brake rotor runout with a dial indicator to see what readings you obtain (yes, even on brand new brake rotors), beginning with the front brake rotors (where most braking feedback will be noticed). It wouldn't be the first time I've had bad-out-of-box new parts, and likely won't be the last time.
Before replacing any more parts (and wasting more money), I suggest you measure brake rotor runout with a dial indicator to see what readings you obtain (yes, even on brand new brake rotors), beginning with the front brake rotors (where most braking feedback will be noticed). It wouldn't be the first time I've had bad-out-of-box new parts, and likely won't be the last time.
New User
Joined: Aug 2015
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Bearings
Anytime you replace the rotor, the bearings should be replaced as well. Just went through this myself, replaced rotor but reused bearings and it would shake while braking. Pulled the rotor, replaced the bearings and put it all back together - no shaking while braking.
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SteveM
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Oct 21, 2003 06:49 PM