My ignition is hotwired!!
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My ignition is hotwired!!
So, here is the deal. This truck is kind of a mess. But without going into too many details I'll get to the point.
Someone (previous owner I presume) hotwired the starter solenoid to bypass the ignition switch. In order to start the truck: Turn key to start postion, flip the little rocker switch that bridges the terminals of the starter solenoid. The reason why this was done is because the Ignition switch in the steering column is broken. The key turns with no recoil.
I don't know how an ignition switch can break like that, but I assuming that is not an easily replaceable part...correct me if I am wrong.
I can just keep it how it is. If it is too much hassle to do otherwise, then I won't waste my time with it.
Someone (previous owner I presume) hotwired the starter solenoid to bypass the ignition switch. In order to start the truck: Turn key to start postion, flip the little rocker switch that bridges the terminals of the starter solenoid. The reason why this was done is because the Ignition switch in the steering column is broken. The key turns with no recoil.
I don't know how an ignition switch can break like that, but I assuming that is not an easily replaceable part...correct me if I am wrong.
I can just keep it how it is. If it is too much hassle to do otherwise, then I won't waste my time with it.
Fleet Mechanic
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actually, it's a fairly easy job ... but don't confuse the ignition LOCK with the ignition SWITCH (common mistake).
the ignition switch is mounted under the dashboard, to the upper side of the steering column. the fact that there is no recoil when you let go of the key points to the switch, but keep in mind that there is a fairly common problem with the ignition switch ACTUATOR breaking.
the ignition switch is mounted under the dashboard, to the upper side of the steering column. the fact that there is no recoil when you let go of the key points to the switch, but keep in mind that there is a fairly common problem with the ignition switch ACTUATOR breaking.
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actually, it's a fairly easy job ... but don't confuse the ignition LOCK with the ignition SWITCH (common mistake).
the ignition switch is mounted under the dashboard, to the upper side of the steering column. the fact that there is no recoil when you let go of the key points to the switch, but keep in mind that there is a fairly common problem with the ignition switch ACTUATOR breaking.
the ignition switch is mounted under the dashboard, to the upper side of the steering column. the fact that there is no recoil when you let go of the key points to the switch, but keep in mind that there is a fairly common problem with the ignition switch ACTUATOR breaking.
If the part I am looking at is right, the actuator is synonymous with ignition lock cylinder ?
Happy Turkey DAY!!
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
what year truck?
91 and older had a pot metal ignition actuator in the top of the column that broke,
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
92 and newer uses a plastic piece that is not that common to break.
the actuator connects the key cylinder to the rod that goes down through the column to the ignition switch .
91 and older had a pot metal ignition actuator in the top of the column that broke,
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
92 and newer uses a plastic piece that is not that common to break.
the actuator connects the key cylinder to the rod that goes down through the column to the ignition switch .
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Nov 2017
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what year truck?
91 and older had a pot metal ignition actuator in the top of the column that broke,
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
92 and newer uses a plastic piece that is not that common to break.
the actuator connects the key cylinder to the rod that goes down through the column to the ignition switch .
91 and older had a pot metal ignition actuator in the top of the column that broke,
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
92 and newer uses a plastic piece that is not that common to break.
the actuator connects the key cylinder to the rod that goes down through the column to the ignition switch .
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...Kx9EfaeMfFt654
I can turn the ignition even without the key in it. But with the key in, It will power accessory and enable the switch mod to start the engine after key is turned to start position.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,507
Likes: 5,563
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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I think I will get a new ignition lock cylinder anyways because this one is pretty wore out.
At this point, you are directing me towards the actuator. That being said, I can still shut the engine off with the key, It just won't engage starter. Most people I have read into having to replace the actuator have issue turning off the engine. I will take a closer look at the column and see what that actuator is doing in there.
At this point, you are directing me towards the actuator. That being said, I can still shut the engine off with the key, It just won't engage starter. Most people I have read into having to replace the actuator have issue turning off the engine. I will take a closer look at the column and see what that actuator is doing in there.
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The downside of that is: unless you get someone to re-key the doors, you will have 2 different keys to keep up with. Even a beater truck gets locked in some neighborhoods.
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Good News and Bad News
Progress has been achieved.
I was fiddling around with the cluster last night replacing some bulbs. BTW If you are upgrading to LED make sure they are short enough to fit into the socket with no interference! Anyways, in order to fully remove the cluster you have to weave out the gear position wire(only automatic trans). It goes around and underneath the start switch up to the bottom of cluster. In some way or another, I inadvertently freed something up with the ignition mechanism to where it regained its operation. But, the ring around the key was very sloppy and loose so I went to get a replacement key lock cylinder.
That is were the bad news comes in. As it turns out, the one and only key I got with the truck, does not match the door locks! Only the ignition. So, as for that, I am not sure. Locksmith? Replace drivers door lock?
I was fiddling around with the cluster last night replacing some bulbs. BTW If you are upgrading to LED make sure they are short enough to fit into the socket with no interference! Anyways, in order to fully remove the cluster you have to weave out the gear position wire(only automatic trans). It goes around and underneath the start switch up to the bottom of cluster. In some way or another, I inadvertently freed something up with the ignition mechanism to where it regained its operation. But, the ring around the key was very sloppy and loose so I went to get a replacement key lock cylinder.
That is were the bad news comes in. As it turns out, the one and only key I got with the truck, does not match the door locks! Only the ignition. So, as for that, I am not sure. Locksmith? Replace drivers door lock?
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