Help need with fuel pump
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2015
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Help need with fuel pump
So this might be a dumb question but there are just too many options out there. I am needing to replace my fuel pump on a 74 f250 360 and want to make sure I get the right one. I have the canister style with the filter screwed on at the bottom but rockauto and summit have multiple pumps that are the same brand but still look different. Any help on the correct pump to buy would be much appreciated.
Oh and according to LMC their pump # for my truck is 43 - 4735 and thats the only year its used per their catalog but they dont have a picture for it. I like to try to buy elsewhere if I can
Reason for needing to replace: Truck wont start, fuel lines are dry. Blew both lines out, dropped fuel filter canister and it had gas in it. Went to start, nothing. Took fuel cap off and went to start, nothing. Blew into tank and went to start, nothing. Lines are dry and cant get fuel to come up. My only thought is to replace the fuel pump.
Oh and according to LMC their pump # for my truck is 43 - 4735 and thats the only year its used per their catalog but they dont have a picture for it. I like to try to buy elsewhere if I can
Reason for needing to replace: Truck wont start, fuel lines are dry. Blew both lines out, dropped fuel filter canister and it had gas in it. Went to start, nothing. Took fuel cap off and went to start, nothing. Blew into tank and went to start, nothing. Lines are dry and cant get fuel to come up. My only thought is to replace the fuel pump.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2015
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Originally Posted by mark a.
I'd still take the feed line off the pump and put air to the tank just to make sure it can get gas up to the pump.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2015
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Originally Posted by jackburtonme
suck on the line some and see if you can draw up some fuel....
I forgot to try it but I'll see if I can run off a gas can with the intake hose in the can
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2015
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
FE F100/350 fuel pump with canister fuel filter is the same: 1965/67 352 & 1968/76 360/390.
I guess the differences in pumps are just manufacture preferences? Like inlet/outlet tube placements and the seal between filter and pump
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Junior User
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I just got one tonight from NAPA...the only choice was whether you want the included filter or not. I paid $34 with attached filter, it came with two composite (not paper) gaskets and a barb adapter. Was identical to the ancient looking unit that I pulled off. No core charge.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2015
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Well took the pump off, and after about 10 pumps gas starting flowing from one gas can to another. 
So the pump works... reinstalled it... still no gas getting up to the carb... I guess this is one of those problems you just throw money at to solve? Buying a new pump now; hoping that solves my problem
So the pump works... reinstalled it... still no gas getting up to the carb... I guess this is one of those problems you just throw money at to solve? Buying a new pump now; hoping that solves my problem
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2005
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Dual tanks or no? manual switcher valves can get a leak at the stem, and you can suck air.
Replaced rubber lines at the back? Been there done that with these, a crack in a rubber line means you're sucking air.
It's pretty tough to find leaks like that, they're usually above the fuel level so they don't drip when it's not running, but it's about $10 worth of hoses and clamps, and if they're unknown age, it might be time anyways......
Replaced rubber lines at the back? Been there done that with these, a crack in a rubber line means you're sucking air.
It's pretty tough to find leaks like that, they're usually above the fuel level so they don't drip when it's not running, but it's about $10 worth of hoses and clamps, and if they're unknown age, it might be time anyways......
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
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From: Taxachusetts
Not so sure the pump does work....10 pumps?
I'm presupposing all the fuel lines from the tank forward have been blown out, checked for cracks and all connections are tight.
With that in mind, after a spell, the pump's diaphragm can become dried/cracked/brittle, rendering it useless......have you applied suction or air to one nipple and observing/listening to the other? ...or vice-versa?
I'm presupposing all the fuel lines from the tank forward have been blown out, checked for cracks and all connections are tight.
With that in mind, after a spell, the pump's diaphragm can become dried/cracked/brittle, rendering it useless......have you applied suction or air to one nipple and observing/listening to the other? ...or vice-versa?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2015
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Originally Posted by JakeHan
Dual tanks or no? manual switcher valves can get a leak at the stem, and you can suck air.
Replaced rubber lines at the back? Been there done that with these, a crack in a rubber line means you're sucking air.
It's pretty tough to find leaks like that, they're usually above the fuel level so they don't drip when it's not running, but it's about $10 worth of hoses and clamps, and if they're unknown age, it might be time anyways......
Replaced rubber lines at the back? Been there done that with these, a crack in a rubber line means you're sucking air.
It's pretty tough to find leaks like that, they're usually above the fuel level so they don't drip when it's not running, but it's about $10 worth of hoses and clamps, and if they're unknown age, it might be time anyways......
Originally Posted by meangreen92
That short rubber line which connects to the tank can collapse under 'vacuum,' and suck itself shut, impeding fuel flow.