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Help need with fuel pump

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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 06:01 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by meangreen92
As long as it's rated for fuel, it should be alright.
Yup.

well buying a new fuel pump cz it seems like that is the only option at this point. I hate buying parts when 1 I am not positive it is broken and 2 cz I travel for work and they always arrive like the day after I leave and I hate delaying this truck more and more every time something like this comes up. Oh well such is life I guess. Stick around till about dec 8-10 when I am able to update this on whether or Not a new pump helped.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 06:04 PM
  #17  
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Talking to a buddy and he said those pump arms do not move a whole lot in normal operation. When I had fuel moving between cans, I was moving that pump arm as far as I could. I was not aware the arms do not move that much. Guess that may be my sign the pump is going bad
 
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 07:32 PM
  #18  
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I almost always have to prime the pump and lines by pouring fuel in from the top down.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 08:09 PM
  #19  
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Is there a reason the carter pump has the inlet/outlet side by side and airtex (and the other brands) have them offset? Just curious as to why the design difference
 
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Old Nov 24, 2017 | 06:27 PM
  #20  
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New pump fixed the problem, now I just got the welcome surprise if the front bolt being stripped out. New cover or helicoil insert?
 
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Old Nov 24, 2017 | 08:55 PM
  #21  
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Well truck still was not starting with the fresh battery. I figured I can worry about the pump bolt later, it is not like i am driving it right now anyway, just want to hear it run.
Charged and tested battery; check
New fuel pump and carb is getting gas; check.
Air filter is off, it is getting air; check
Checked ignition coil, primary is 1.6 ohms and secondary is 8.3k ohms. From what I can tell that is in tolerance; check
New plug wires about a year back, check
Will be confirming spark plugs tomorrow although I thought I replaced them when I did wires so they should be good.
if I confirm spark tomorrow like I expect to, what else can it be? I think that leaves me with compression or the actual starter correct?
 
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Old Nov 24, 2017 | 09:05 PM
  #22  
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Ignition switch could cause a no spark too. It directs a full 12V+ to the coil when cranking the starter, and when the key/switch is released back to "Run," it directs the attenuated voltage to the coil.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 02:21 PM
  #23  
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Well between thanksgiving and traveling for work I just got some time to work on the truck. Bought an inline spark tester and I am not getting spark. Time to start diagnosing that now
 
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Old Dec 9, 2017 | 05:18 PM
  #24  
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Ok....connect a test light from the TACH TEST (-) terminal of the coil to a good ground....have a helper crank the engine over whilst you watch the test light.

It should blink if things (hehe) are good.
 
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