I have recently rebuilt the dreaded e4od transmission. Like little nuggets of gold I keep finding useful info about the ongoing and still not working/ drivable condition of my truck. After watching a video on ecm issues. I pulled mine it has 2 bad capacitors. I would be a fool at this point to ONLY replace the 2 of 3 that are bad. The question is where to get the new caps from. I have computer supply store here but they want to sell me a variety grab that only has one of the caps needed in the bunch. I'm self employed 600$ dollars into this gig and 3 bucks away from hallelujah. Optomistic to a fault for sure. Any advice. Should I upgrade the values electrically or will spikes just cook something else. I need to order caps on line. In town sources and getting there are too inconvenient at this time. HELP HELP ....POOF See THE RED FLARE

 

Do you have a radio shack in your area? I seem to remember them carrying the ones you need. Are several of them a 4.7uf radial?

 

Capacitors have a wide tolerance. Don't go under voltage though. So to replace a 16 volt calacitor say, a 20 volt unit is fine, although space can become an issue. Capacitance itself is similar. Check online from Mouser and DigiKey, they probably still do onesies and twosies. Just match the voltage and capacitance rating reasonably close and they should be fine. Replace all of them while you're in there, they won't necessarily leak when they go bad.

 

Here is a post from a Yahoo Group about EEC capacitors:

You will need two 47uF @ 16V and one 10uF @63V electrolytic, radial lead
capacitors. It is OK to substitute a higher voltage rated part, but not
a part with a lower voltage rating. Parts rated at 105 degrees C are preferred.

A bit of technique:
It will be difficult to de-solder and even warm up the solder joint,
because of the leaked electrolyte. You will notice that the solder will
have a gray dull appearance, not bright and shiny as it should be.

Take a picture of the board and note which value cap belongs in which
position. Electrolytic caps are oriented by the negative lead. The
negative will have a stripe or a (-) marking. Note this as well as it is
important. Cut off the caps as close to the capacitor's can as possible,
to minimize risk of damaging the PCB. The board is conformal coated
(dipped) with a silicone rubber to keep water and moisture out. What I
would recommend is lightly removing the silicone around the pads on both
sides of the board with a fiberglass brush, and then brighten up the
legs of the cap and the joint if you can get to it.

Once you have bright shiny copper showing on the leads (NOT the
traces!), you can apply rosin-based solder to the leads to conduct the
heat down the lead into the middle of the joint. With tweezers, you can
pull the lead up and out of the hole in the pad.

DON'T use acid core solder; leave that for your plumbing jobs! DON'T use
a soldering GUN! Use a soldering pencil with a bright shiny, tinned tip
and a wet sponge to wipe the tip.

Apply more solder to flush out the nasty corroded solder, but not too
much heat! Flip the board over clean off the silicone and apply solder
to the back of the board. Once the solder filled pads are bright and
shiny, on both sides, you can sip the solder out with an asthma ball,
solda-pullit, or solder wick.

Once you get to this point, soldering in the new caps is very easy. Just
pay attention to the polarity (-) orientation, and the component values
are in the right places. Just go slow, and don't apply too much heat.
You don't want to lift up ant traces or pads.

I have another way to clear the vias on the board. Just heat the solder to liquid, then use an air gun to blow the excess solder away. Blow through the hole to clear it. Don't do this if you have a large amount of solder. You can use this method after cleaning most of the solder up by any of the means above.

Digikey or Mouser are good sources for those capacitors. Someone should do a group buy for these values.

 

When I had to order some capacitors to fix a plasma TV I got them from Mouser, very inexpensive and it only took a few days.

https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compo...tors/_/N-5g7r/

Here's the 47uf @ 16vdc
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...W3CU28QsRek%3d

Here's the 10uf @ 63vdc
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...02uuR60SKDI%3d

 

Here are some caps from Digikey, rated at 105 degrees C.
10 ufd @ 63 VDC
https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...2-1-ND/3129709

47 ufd @16 VDC
https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...1-1-ND/3129698

 

Good catch, I missed the temperature rating.

 

Either way fresh capacitors will be way better than whatever is in there now.

 

Mark: I am not telling you not to replace your capacitors, but I replaced mine (did a hack job of it) and it didn't fix my electrical problem. I am still driving with the same hacked up ECM so it wasn't my capacitors or my capacitor replacement hack job that caused or continued my problem.

Maybe you have already followed a "crank no start" or other decision tree, but if you haven't, you should methodically follow the appropriate decision tree here:

Automotive Troubleshooting and Test Articles -troubleshootmyvehicle.com

You might find the links referenced in post #2 here helpful:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ont-start.html

Without a strong PIP signal (i.e., cam position signal) created by a functioning stator inside the distributor, the ICM and ECM can't do their job to create a spark, no matter how good the ECM's capacitors are...