As per my post earlier I need to replace most of my fuel system. My goal is to replace/upgrade as much as possible (budget allowing). Being a rookie I have about a billion questions, but i have narrowed it down to:
1. What are you guys running for the in tank pickup/sending unit other then OEM? (I like RiffRaffs but they are out of stock and I need my truck yesterday)
2. Would an Airdog/similar type system be worth the trouble?
3. Has anyone used the sump units(XDP, Beans,Swamps etc)
4. How is fuel level measured using one of the above systems?

I'm not afraid to say that I'm a noob and my research is not yielding the results im seeking. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks ya'l!

 

This is one of those times where the Ford engineers almost got it right. We have issues with air in fuel and parts in the tank failing. A complete Hutch mod is all you really need for a fuel mod - the rest is good to go up to 400 HP.

I have a stock fuel pump and the stock fuel bowl with Motorcraft filter. I have a full hutch mod with a pre-pump strainer - not prefilter.




My injectors and turbo are not stock, yet they like the stock-ish fuel system just fine.

 

They can be hard to come by for the Mid Tank. But, readily available for the Aft.

All that is necessary is to shorten the pickup tube with a Tubing Cutter.

The Sending Unit remains the same on either. The detriment of these is two fold. One being Moisture (where you buy your fuel) the other being Age. A guess on my parts after replacing a hundred or so would be about a 15 year life span. If you plan on keeping it for 16 years, then consider spending the money on a more suitable level indicator system.

Since the Tank used in these Trucks are designed for Gasoline, doing a Harpoon Mod will allow an additional 5 - 7 Gallons of Fuel as Diesel is a Combustible not a Flammable and therefore expansion is not an issue in Summer.

As for the extra filters, pumps, modifications; They're your option. I have never had a issue with the Mixing Chamber Screens. Only the Foot, which, if installed correctly lasts the life of the vehicle. Just maintain .0625" from bottom when installing. Some Clay will allow you to determine the distance easily. Never a come-back since doing this for eons. Others may say different.

 

1. Pretty much all of the sending units are stock regardless of the fuel pickup used. The one from RiffRaff has a different style of sending unit and larger draw tubes. It is overkill for your application unless you are dreaming of 500+ HP in the future.

2. Airdog/Fass is not worth the trouble in my opinion. Their primary selling point it air removal. It is far cheaper to eliminate the source of air than it is to add a system to remove it. I'm talking $400-$700 cheaper.

3. Sump units allow for huge suction lines in expteme high performance applications. I will never consider one because I sometimes drive on ranch roads that are little more than 2 wheel tracks through sage brush and over logs. I don't want anything hanging down to get caught and ripped off the bottom of my fuel tank.

4. When using an aftermarket draw tube/sump sytem, the stock sending unit is retained for fuel gauge and return. The unused port is capped off.

 

After some more research and reading responses and other posts I think I've decided(finally haha) on the route I'm going to take.
1. Factory sending unit in tank with Hutch mod
2. Add a filter in line to the pump (Riffraff)
3. Replace stock factory pump (Bosch @Riffraff)

I think this will serve as a good base for a mild build, then maybe upgrade later if the wife ever lets me spend money 😀.
What is the part number for the Motorcraft sending unit (in tank) for a 2001 F250 7.3 ext cab longbed?
I'm seeing multiple part numbers and I dont have time to waste with returns/unneeded mods to make it fit.
Thank you for the responses!

 

I would go with the PS120-02 filter from Racor. People have had great success with it and it runs around $65 plus a couple of barbed fittings.

 

Not sure what part you are referring to. Typical Hutch and Harpoon mod includes a substantial rework of the existing components. No sense hacking up brand new parts.

If you mean the fuel gauge sending unit (because your fuel gauge is not working) the guts of a gas version can be adapted to fit, and it is much cheaper. I think IDI Charlie made a thread on it for this forum. Employ your google-fu. Speaking of googling, be aware of the dates on threads you find. Current practice is generally better.

I think your plan is very much on the right track, just need to sort out the details before breaking out the wrenches. For example when I did these mods I made a long return tube in the tank as seen in Guzzle's page. In hindsight I'd make that much shorter. A short tube will still direct any bubbles away from the intake, but the extra mass of the long tube adds to metal fatigue at the bend due to vibration.

A fellow on this forum once made 513 HP on a stock motor and stock fuel system with the only upgrades being injectors, tuning, and a straight thru muffler off an OBS. Save your time and money for other mods. Just yesterday I mentioned to my wife that Santa is a big fan of injectors.