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Newbie here; I just bought myself a 1996 Ranger pickup with 5 spd tranny. The seller said that March of 2017 he had a new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and slave cylinder installed. He never replaced the master cylinder. His invoices verified that. This is a hydraulic clutch with no way to adjust it except possibly bleeding the system if it has air in it. The clutch pedal does not engage until about 1/2 inch from the top which doesn't seem right for a new clutch. Sitting on a hill at a stop light with some dude behind who has pulled up within 2 feet of my bumper, has a tendency to make me nervous starting out I took it to my local wench, and asked him to bleed the system to see if maybe that would put the clutch pedal to engage closer to the floor. He told me he had bought a new '96 Ranger himself years ago, and it was the same way right off the showroom floor. My question is, is this really how these clutches work, or was he blowing smoke up my ****?
Idahored
Mtn Home, Idaho
replace the master then be ready to R&R the slave! Yes the slave also I had done one without the other had same problem then ended up R&R both. Look at the archives on easist way to bleed which for me is to bleed the master once installed by pulling the plunger loose. I posted a how to some years ago. Yes it even included the bench bleed some say to use.
replace the master then be ready to R&R the slave! Yes the slave also I had done one without the other had same problem then ended up R&R both. Look at the archives on easist way to bleed which for me is to bleed the master once installed by pulling the plunger loose. I posted a how to some years ago. Yes it even included the bench bleed some say to use.
I think the slave is internal, so how to R&R it ?
Idahored
This is the fun part of the problem, the trans has to be pulled! I use autozone stuff as it is lifetime guarantee, bought an $$ and it failed in 50000 miles anyhow.
here is what I posted sometime ago. You might weant to try this first.
inside the cab, pull the starter interlock from the clutch rod, disconnect the rod from the pedal arm. You will see a circlip in the master over the piston. Pull the circlip, pull the piston till just the air and a little fluid escapes, pump the master a couple of strokes repeat the above, reasemble than bleed per the manual, open the bleeder and let gravity bleed. Might have to bleed the bleeder a couple of times, biggest thing is the air in the master.
I've got an original '98 w/5 speed that still has a wonderful pedal. I haven't had any problems getting the clutch bled on these things and I've replaced several. Perhaps I've been just super lucky and the next one will hit me hard. I've seen a few of these advertised on RockAuto as being "pre-bled". I know I'll have to replace mine one of these years and I'm suspect that'll be the one that gives me trouble.
This is one area where I'm not going to install a no-name part from a questionable origin.
This is the fun part of the problem, the trans has to be pulled! I use autozone stuff as it is lifetime guarantee, bought an $$ and it failed in 50000 miles anyhow.
go to autozone site and read the how to's to R&R.
Tranny has to be pulled ?? ,,,don't know that should be done, in that case, I'll just drive it he way it is then
I've got an original '98 w/5 speed that still has a wonderful pedal. I haven't had any problems getting the clutch bled on these things and I've replaced several. Perhaps I've been just super lucky and the next one will hit me hard. I've seen a few of these advertised on RockAuto as being "pre-bled". I know I'll have to replace mine one of these years and I'm suspect that'll be the one that gives me trouble.
This is one area where I'm not going to install a no-name part from a questionable origin.
One question I'd sure be interested in knowing the answer to, would be in the majority of similar years and models like mine, just where does the clutch start to engage coming from the floor. Do most engage at the very top like mine, or somewhere in the middle ? My wrench says that they come new that way, which to me would be a **** poor selling point I certainly wouldn't buy a new truck with a clutch set up like that !
Idahored
mine engages low, so BLEED yours and see if it helps. On second thought put in a new master if the bleeding does not help
I think, I'll just have a new master installed and then have them bleed the system. I've read where someone suggested on "gravity bleed", but no clue about how that works. Thanks for replying to my question ! It now seems that where and how my clutch works is not the normal thing, I didn't think so.
my '05 engages high. been that way since I replaced it about 150,000 miles ago.
the pressure plate has a self adjusting mechanism to accommodate for wear. or at least the one NAPA sold me does.
the original factory clutch lasted 180,000 miles. it was only replaced because the pilot bearing went bad. I have a bad right leg and have difficulties with finesse on the gas pedal, that makes me very rough on clutches but they do seem to last quite a while.
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