Big Brake Kit
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...f-springs.html
Piston sizes and brake torque calculations on OEM, SSBC and wilwood already done .
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...f-springs.html
Piston sizes and brake torque calculations on OEM, SSBC and wilwood already done .
The shorter your gears the better and I'm assuming with tires that big you don't have 3.73 gears any longer.

Something like this... not a company endorsement just a google result in case you aren't sure what I'm talking about.
https://neratdemo.com/shop/rearend/d...ystem-dana-60/
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
The shorter your gears the better and I'm assuming with tires that big you don't have 3.73 gears any longer.

Something like this... not a company endorsement just a google result in case you aren't sure what I'm talking about.
https://neratdemo.com/shop/rearend/d...ystem-dana-60/
So legality will depend on where you live, that may or may not nix the whole idea.
Anyway with regards to heat, yes and no. Micro-physics lesson, braking is energy transfer. You transfer the kinetic energy of motion in to heat energy so if you have 100 joules of kinetic energy your brakes will transfer that into 100 joules of heat energy and you stop. 100 joules of heat is 100 joules of heat, it doesn't matter where your brakes are or how big they are or how fast they spin, there's only 100 joules being worked with.
Okay now let's take the 100 joules and talk about temperature. Temperature is going to be determined by how much mass we're putting those 100 joules in to, and how quickly we're putting them in. If you move from 2 rotors at the wheels to 1 rotor the same size at the pinion we cut the rotor mass in half so yes it will get twice as hot if nothing else changes. So you probably want a rotor with more mass
Since this a new system anyway using a rotor with enough mass isn't really a problem.Okay but what about the speed? Isn't it going to get real hot real fast? Yes! This is why your brakes won't suck any more
Since braking is all about converting kinetic energy to heat energy, the faster your getting heat energy the faster you're slowing down. Your current brakes are going so damn slow from those big tires that they can't produce heat quickly any more, this is why your brakes suck. Yes you will see a higher peak temperature when you put all those joules in to the rotor quickly but that will be true if you're stopping quickly regardless of where the rotor is. Is it better? It is more effective at stopping regardless of wheel size so in that regard yes it is better. You get less "feel" because there is more stuff with flex and play between the caliper and the road but frankly your "feel" is ****ed on big tires like that anyway; this isn't a race car.
Could it be used in addition to wheel brakes? Sure.
Brake failure, well yeah. But it sounds to me like this thing is dangerous all the time right now so I would take only a problem on catestrophic failure over always sucks any time. In your situation I would just leave the wheel brakes stock but in good maintenance, and add a front pinion brake. You can bias it with different brake compounds and/or a proportioning valve. This would likely keep you street legal too but double check.
EDIT: By the way this will also require that you run with your front hubs locked all the time. You don't have to have the transfer case engaged and you won't want to anyway unless you've changed the type you have, but pinion brakes only work when the hubs are locked in.
So legality will depend on where you live, that may or may not nix the whole idea.
Anyway with regards to heat, yes and no. Micro-physics lesson, braking is energy transfer. You transfer the kinetic energy of motion in to heat energy so if you have 100 joules of kinetic energy your brakes will transfer that into 100 joules of heat energy and you stop. 100 joules of heat is 100 joules of heat, it doesn't matter where your brakes are or how big they are or how fast they spin, there's only 100 joules being worked with.
Okay now let's take the 100 joules and talk about temperature. Temperature is going to be determined by how much mass we're putting those 100 joules in to, and how quickly we're putting them in. If you move from 2 rotors at the wheels to 1 rotor the same size at the pinion we cut the rotor mass in half so yes it will get twice as hot if nothing else changes. So you probably want a rotor with more mass
Since this a new system anyway using a rotor with enough mass isn't really a problem.Okay but what about the speed? Isn't it going to get real hot real fast? Yes! This is why your brakes won't suck any more
Since braking is all about converting kinetic energy to heat energy, the faster your getting heat energy the faster you're slowing down. Your current brakes are going so damn slow from those big tires that they can't produce heat quickly any more, this is why your brakes suck. Yes you will see a higher peak temperature when you put all those joules in to the rotor quickly but that will be true if you're stopping quickly regardless of where the rotor is.Is it better? It is more effective at stopping regardless of wheel size so in that regard yes it is better. You get less "feel" because there is more stuff with flex and play between the caliper and the road but frankly your "feel" is ****ed on big tires like that anyway; this isn't a race car.
Could it be used in addition to wheel brakes? Sure.
Brake failure, well yeah. But it sounds to me like this thing is dangerous all the time right now so I would take only a problem on catestrophic failure over always sucks any time. In your situation I would just leave the wheel brakes stock but in good maintenance, and add a front pinion brake. You can bias it with different brake compounds and/or a proportioning valve. This would likely keep you street legal too but double check.
EDIT: By the way this will also require that you run with your front hubs locked all the time. You don't have to have the transfer case engaged and you won't want to anyway unless you've changed the type you have, but pinion brakes only work when the hubs are locked in.
Thanks for all the info! I have zero experience with this type of braking system and brake bias. Could you point me in the direction of how to install and or correctly adjust a pinon brake and brake bias?
Seems to me if you are willing to spend the money on making this rig a show stopper with those huge tires and lift and still want to drive it on the street, the reasonable thing would be to get the braking system up to speed. There are plenty of trucks around here with 46 inch plus tires that stop just fine. Big brakes, stainless lines upgraded master cylinder and brake booster might be a good start. I'm back to work tomorrow, will play with some numbers for you. There is a lot of good advice here from some very knowledgeable people.








