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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 05:50 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
Read from post number 21 to the end of the thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...f-springs.html

Piston sizes and brake torque calculations on OEM, SSBC and wilwood already done .
Nice!!! And that is a great calculator for this. To the OP that is a very thorough chat about what you are looking at.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 05:58 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
Read from post number 21 to the end of the thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...f-springs.html

Piston sizes and brake torque calculations on OEM, SSBC and wilwood already done .
Only one issue. In this post the guy says the SSBC system has 4 pistons but the one on looking at has 8. So it’s not the same.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 06:00 PM
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 06:04 PM
  #19  
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Nevermind I feel dumb he’s only counting one side of the caliper.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 06:43 PM
  #20  
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DeltaV didn’t you need the tire diameter to calculate the correct numbers?
 
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Xmaniac
DeltaV didn’t you need the tire diameter to calculate the correct numbers?
Not to calculate brake torque.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Xmaniac
Nevermind I feel dumb he’s only counting one side of the caliper.
Ya, That was my post and all 3 calipers are calculated using one side so the comparisons are equal.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 07:25 PM
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With tires that big I would recommend a pinion brake. Stopping sucks because leverage is working against you and it's kicking your ***. Put the brakes on the other side of the pinion in the driveline and you'll get your leverage back.

The shorter your gears the better and I'm assuming with tires that big you don't have 3.73 gears any longer.

Something like this... not a company endorsement just a google result in case you aren't sure what I'm talking about.

https://neratdemo.com/shop/rearend/d...ystem-dana-60/
 
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 07:32 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by seijirou
With tires that big I would recommend a pinion brake. Stopping sucks because leverage is working against you and it's kicking your ***. Put the brakes on the other side of the pinion in the driveline and you'll get your leverage back.

The shorter your gears the better and I'm assuming with tires that big you don't have 3.73 gears any longer.

Something like this... not a company endorsement just a google result in case you aren't sure what I'm talking about.

https://neratdemo.com/shop/rearend/d...ystem-dana-60/
honestly I’m not sure what gears it has or what amount of boost the super charger is pushing (someone asked about the boost earlier) I know that sounds terrible but I’m still new to some of these things I’ve always owned cars not trucks. But it will get up and go for how large it is and being gas.But I have very seriously concidered this type of braking system. Would something like this be superior to a conventional brakeong system? I assume so since monster trucks run this type of setup but I know absolutely nothing about a pinion brake lol. School me if you will!
 
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 08:07 PM
  #25  
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I did a quick google myself and read a few things that raised some concern. One of corse would be gear ratio because of it spins to fast I could never use it on the street because it would get way to hot. Two is this something I would use in conjunction with my factory braking system or stand alone? Reason I say this is because most of what I’m seeing say this type of braking system is not street legal and two if I have any type of failure on this one brake I loose all my brakes. Not sure if this would be the best option?
 
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 09:01 PM
  #26  
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I assumed with something that big this wasn't street driven but re-reading your post now I notice you talking about stopping distance in traffic.

So legality will depend on where you live, that may or may not nix the whole idea.

Anyway with regards to heat, yes and no. Micro-physics lesson, braking is energy transfer. You transfer the kinetic energy of motion in to heat energy so if you have 100 joules of kinetic energy your brakes will transfer that into 100 joules of heat energy and you stop. 100 joules of heat is 100 joules of heat, it doesn't matter where your brakes are or how big they are or how fast they spin, there's only 100 joules being worked with.
Okay now let's take the 100 joules and talk about temperature. Temperature is going to be determined by how much mass we're putting those 100 joules in to, and how quickly we're putting them in. If you move from 2 rotors at the wheels to 1 rotor the same size at the pinion we cut the rotor mass in half so yes it will get twice as hot if nothing else changes. So you probably want a rotor with more mass Since this a new system anyway using a rotor with enough mass isn't really a problem.

Okay but what about the speed? Isn't it going to get real hot real fast? Yes! This is why your brakes won't suck any more Since braking is all about converting kinetic energy to heat energy, the faster your getting heat energy the faster you're slowing down. Your current brakes are going so damn slow from those big tires that they can't produce heat quickly any more, this is why your brakes suck. Yes you will see a higher peak temperature when you put all those joules in to the rotor quickly but that will be true if you're stopping quickly regardless of where the rotor is.

Is it better? It is more effective at stopping regardless of wheel size so in that regard yes it is better. You get less "feel" because there is more stuff with flex and play between the caliper and the road but frankly your "feel" is ****ed on big tires like that anyway; this isn't a race car.

Could it be used in addition to wheel brakes? Sure.

Brake failure, well yeah. But it sounds to me like this thing is dangerous all the time right now so I would take only a problem on catestrophic failure over always sucks any time. In your situation I would just leave the wheel brakes stock but in good maintenance, and add a front pinion brake. You can bias it with different brake compounds and/or a proportioning valve. This would likely keep you street legal too but double check.

EDIT: By the way this will also require that you run with your front hubs locked all the time. You don't have to have the transfer case engaged and you won't want to anyway unless you've changed the type you have, but pinion brakes only work when the hubs are locked in.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 01:49 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by seijirou
I assumed with something that big this wasn't street driven but re-reading your post now I notice you talking about stopping distance in traffic.

So legality will depend on where you live, that may or may not nix the whole idea.

Anyway with regards to heat, yes and no. Micro-physics lesson, braking is energy transfer. You transfer the kinetic energy of motion in to heat energy so if you have 100 joules of kinetic energy your brakes will transfer that into 100 joules of heat energy and you stop. 100 joules of heat is 100 joules of heat, it doesn't matter where your brakes are or how big they are or how fast they spin, there's only 100 joules being worked with.
Okay now let's take the 100 joules and talk about temperature. Temperature is going to be determined by how much mass we're putting those 100 joules in to, and how quickly we're putting them in. If you move from 2 rotors at the wheels to 1 rotor the same size at the pinion we cut the rotor mass in half so yes it will get twice as hot if nothing else changes. So you probably want a rotor with more mass Since this a new system anyway using a rotor with enough mass isn't really a problem.

Okay but what about the speed? Isn't it going to get real hot real fast? Yes! This is why your brakes won't suck any more Since braking is all about converting kinetic energy to heat energy, the faster your getting heat energy the faster you're slowing down. Your current brakes are going so damn slow from those big tires that they can't produce heat quickly any more, this is why your brakes suck. Yes you will see a higher peak temperature when you put all those joules in to the rotor quickly but that will be true if you're stopping quickly regardless of where the rotor is.

Is it better? It is more effective at stopping regardless of wheel size so in that regard yes it is better. You get less "feel" because there is more stuff with flex and play between the caliper and the road but frankly your "feel" is ****ed on big tires like that anyway; this isn't a race car.

Could it be used in addition to wheel brakes? Sure.

Brake failure, well yeah. But it sounds to me like this thing is dangerous all the time right now so I would take only a problem on catestrophic failure over always sucks any time. In your situation I would just leave the wheel brakes stock but in good maintenance, and add a front pinion brake. You can bias it with different brake compounds and/or a proportioning valve. This would likely keep you street legal too but double check.

EDIT: By the way this will also require that you run with your front hubs locked all the time. You don't have to have the transfer case engaged and you won't want to anyway unless you've changed the type you have, but pinion brakes only work when the hubs are locked in.

Thanks for all the info! I have zero experience with this type of braking system and brake bias. Could you point me in the direction of how to install and or correctly adjust a pinon brake and brake bias?
 
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 02:03 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Xmaniac
Thanks for all the info! I have zero experience with this type of braking system and brake bias. Could you point me in the direction of how to install and or correctly adjust a pinon brake and brake bias?
I'd suggest checking with your state laws before you do this. This type of braking is not legal in a number of places. I had a pinion brake on my old offroad rock crawler and it worked great. Had hand brakes for each side too, but it came off the road after the solid axle swap.

Seems to me if you are willing to spend the money on making this rig a show stopper with those huge tires and lift and still want to drive it on the street, the reasonable thing would be to get the braking system up to speed. There are plenty of trucks around here with 46 inch plus tires that stop just fine. Big brakes, stainless lines upgraded master cylinder and brake booster might be a good start. I'm back to work tomorrow, will play with some numbers for you. There is a lot of good advice here from some very knowledgeable people.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 02:08 PM
  #29  
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Okay awesome thanks.
 
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