Separating hub/brake drum
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 51
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From: Houston, TX
Separating hub/brake drum
I have a ‘66 F250 with 2-1/2” front drum brakes and found a crack in one of the drums. I need to separate the hub from the drum. I’m not finding the procedure in the Ford shop manual, except a reference to removing hardware that attaches the two. Mine has no retainers or screws.
Can anyone confirm if the studs can be pressed out or if I need a swedge cutter?? I can’t afford to damage the hub and I have a 20 ton press.
Thanks!!
Can anyone confirm if the studs can be pressed out or if I need a swedge cutter?? I can’t afford to damage the hub and I have a 20 ton press.
Thanks!!
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
The old studs are pressed out, the new studs are pressed in.
Some people use a hammer to R & R studs, but this is not the correct procedure.
The old studs should not be reused!
Some people use a hammer to R & R studs, but this is not the correct procedure.
The old studs should not be reused!
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,051
Likes: 1,607
From: Seattle
On a side note - if the hub is still on the vehicle - you can't get it to a press - you don't own a press, etc. - and you need to replace a stud or 8 you can use a stack of appropriate sized washers and one of the lug nuts. Just slip the new stud in from the back side and put the washers on the front side and then the nut. Make sure the washers don't get caught up in the threads of the stud and that you keep enough washers in the stack to not let the nut bottom out and it will pull the stud straight in. Works like a charm.
AND - if you properly line up a used stud and pull it in using this method I've had great luck reusing studs - still in place many years later and working great. This is a bit more gentle approach to using a 20 ton or larger press and so it doesn't tend to deform the serrations as long as it is lined up well ahead of time. This is not for everyone.
Chad
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AND - if you properly line up a used stud and pull it in using this method I've had great luck reusing studs - still in place many years later and working great. This is a bit more gentle approach to using a 20 ton or larger press and so it doesn't tend to deform the serrations as long as it is lined up well ahead of time. This is not for everyone.
Chad
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,946
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Be sure and back up the hub/drum behind the stud with a socket or pipe fitting to make your press more effective and less likely to flex the drum. Once you get all the studs out the drum and hub should separate, though you might still need to use the press.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,671
Likes: 372
I'm guessing the drum will be discarded since it's cracked. OP should replace drums on both sides since a new drum will have more "meat".
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Southern Maryland
Understood he will have new hubs. He still needs to true the brake surface to the hub by having them turned. The studs do not precisely locate the drum to the hub. The odds of it being concentric are near zero. Without turning the assembly he will likely experience brake drag unless the hub is loose enough on the new studs to self center.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: W (BY GOD) V
Understood he will have new hubs. He still needs to true the brake surface to the hub by having them turned. The studs do not precisely locate the drum to the hub. The odds of it being concentric are near zero. Without turning the assembly he will likely experience brake drag unless the hub is loose enough on the new studs to self center.
That's if you don't want brake pulsation.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,671
Likes: 372
Understood he will have new hubs. He still needs to true the brake surface to the hub by having them turned. The studs do not precisely locate the drum to the hub. The odds of it being concentric are near zero. Without turning the assembly he will likely experience brake drag unless the hub is loose enough on the new studs to self center.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 218
From: W (BY GOD) V
Well, ideally... 
...
(and this is why the hub and drum was sold as an assembly way back when),
...the replacement drum should be held to the hub (pressed) with the swages in the studs holding both components tightly together. If not (and the repl drums are not hub centric), will cause all kinds of problems.
Same with putting a rotor hat on a hub. The hub surface has to be clean and flat or you are going to have disc run-out.
...(and this is why the hub and drum was sold as an assembly way back when),
...the replacement drum should be held to the hub (pressed) with the swages in the studs holding both components tightly together. If not (and the repl drums are not hub centric), will cause all kinds of problems.
Same with putting a rotor hat on a hub. The hub surface has to be clean and flat or you are going to have disc run-out.
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