Front Brake Drums
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 218
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From: Spokane, WA
Front Brake Drums
My front brake drums aren't turnable, according to the brake shop. So I ordered a pair of new ones, which look exactly like the new rear ones I put on last summer, only at twice the price (almost). I guess my question is, are they a two piece unit, as in the drum is seperate from the wheel bearing snout? And if so, how do I break them apart, or is it a press on operation? Just out of curiosity, I double checked the stock numbers, and they are different for the front and rear. Of all the old vehicles I've worked on, I always thought they were a one piece unit.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
Likes: 6
From: Coal country
Yes, the drums are separate from the hub. The fronts look just like the rears; the wheel studs are pressed into the hub from the rear, and the drum slipes over them.
The drums often rust tightly to the hub (just like they stick to the rear half-axles) and must be worked free.
I recommend you heat the drum's metal plate with a propane torch evenly around, and then spray Liquid Wrench or equivalent where the hub and drum meet. If you take the hub and drum assembly off the spindle, you may find better success getting Liquid Wrench between the drum and hub.
I have also found that heat applied to the drum plate where it mates to the hub, but not to the hub itself, will often warp it enough to allow a ball peen hammer to break it loose. Don't do it this way, unless the drum is already shot.
Failing that, you can remove the hub, turn it upside down, and drive the drum off that way. I recommend you screw the wheel nuts back on, until the flat of the nut is level with the flat of the stud. (Be prepared to replace studs, though, if you do it this way. They may work loose.)
Hope this helps!
The drums often rust tightly to the hub (just like they stick to the rear half-axles) and must be worked free.
I recommend you heat the drum's metal plate with a propane torch evenly around, and then spray Liquid Wrench or equivalent where the hub and drum meet. If you take the hub and drum assembly off the spindle, you may find better success getting Liquid Wrench between the drum and hub.
I have also found that heat applied to the drum plate where it mates to the hub, but not to the hub itself, will often warp it enough to allow a ball peen hammer to break it loose. Don't do it this way, unless the drum is already shot.
Failing that, you can remove the hub, turn it upside down, and drive the drum off that way. I recommend you screw the wheel nuts back on, until the flat of the nut is level with the flat of the stud. (Be prepared to replace studs, though, if you do it this way. They may work loose.)
Hope this helps!
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
Likes: 6
From: Coal country
I forgot to add that you would be well advised to get a spare hub or two. They are hard to come by.
I had loose studs work themselves out, and waller out the hub holes, so that I couldn't mount the wheel to the hub.
It took several months to find a useable replacement.
I had loose studs work themselves out, and waller out the hub holes, so that I couldn't mount the wheel to the hub.
It took several months to find a useable replacement.
Trailering
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Wake Forest NC
A cutter is available (for your drill press) that fits around the stud and cuts the shoulder of the drum that shrouds the stud; this allows the removal of the hub/stud assy w/o breaking/warping the hub by pounding out the studs. They probably can be purchased from NAPA, or a machine shop could perform the task.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
What year truck?
Procedures differ for straight axle verses twin i beam.
Straight axle trucks have three counter sunk screws holding the drum to the front hub.
The 65 66 Twin i beam is held on by typically a copper washer and the wheel. Odds of the washer remaining are slim tho after fourty years.
Rear brakes same 61 to 66 and drum should seperate from axle end. Just note the eariler 9" rears ans Danas did not have self adjusters and usually will need to be backed off.
Garbz
Procedures differ for straight axle verses twin i beam.
Straight axle trucks have three counter sunk screws holding the drum to the front hub.
The 65 66 Twin i beam is held on by typically a copper washer and the wheel. Odds of the washer remaining are slim tho after fourty years.
Rear brakes same 61 to 66 and drum should seperate from axle end. Just note the eariler 9" rears ans Danas did not have self adjusters and usually will need to be backed off.
Garbz
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
Likes: 5
From: seattle
Regarding the countersunk screws....they are used on all 61-6 3/4 ton...not sure bout 1/2 tons...the twin I beam trucks drums are the same front and rear....hows that for ease of interchange...hehe. BTW, if you gotta split them, a nice big screwdriver and a 5lb hammer with turning pressure on them should help them break free...But before I go after the screws, I rap on them to 'wake' them up....Last pair I did I had to give a couple real good whacks for the hub to fall away....I wirebrushed the area where the 2 meet before...so you can see if your making progress...if you choose to use the wheel studs to rap on, put lug nut on backwards,run down till flush w/stud....
If that dont work, heat works well
If that dont work, heat works well
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, Texas
I think the front and rear drums may not be the same. I seem to recall having to order two different part numbers. The front brake shoes are a little bit wider (about 1/4 inch) than the back shoes. I figured this out the hard way as the back shoes fit the front brakes easily and the front shoes are really difficult to install on the rear (retention springs very tight). After scratching my head for a bit I figured out I had used the rear shoes on the front brakes. Pretty easy to do.
I also had to chamfer the wheel stud holes on the front drums in order to get the drum to seat on the hub.
Chris
I also had to chamfer the wheel stud holes on the front drums in order to get the drum to seat on the hub.
Chris
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 78
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From: Spring Valley Ca
Check to see if there are threaded jacking bolt holes in the drums. If there is, thread jacking bolts in to apply good pressure, use a little heat with a few good taps with a hammer and continue until they back off.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 218
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From: Spokane, WA
Thanks for all the responses! It's a '62 stepside. I don't remember any screws in the assembly. I'm just happy I seem to have the right part, and now know what to do - even learned somethin'.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
What year truck?
Procedures differ for straight axle verses twin i beam.
Straight axle trucks have three counter sunk screws holding the drum to the front hub.
The 65 66 Twin i beam is held on by typically a copper washer and the wheel. Odds of the washer remaining are slim tho after fourty years.
Rear brakes same 61 to 66 and drum should seperate from axle end. Just note the eariler 9" rears ans Danas did not have self adjusters and usually will need to be backed off.
Garbz
Procedures differ for straight axle verses twin i beam.
Straight axle trucks have three counter sunk screws holding the drum to the front hub.
The 65 66 Twin i beam is held on by typically a copper washer and the wheel. Odds of the washer remaining are slim tho after fourty years.
Rear brakes same 61 to 66 and drum should seperate from axle end. Just note the eariler 9" rears ans Danas did not have self adjusters and usually will need to be backed off.
Garbz
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