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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 07:54 PM
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Amphihauler
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Another horn question

Looking for info on how the horn is wired in my 65 F100 4x4. I don't have a horn in the truck but there is a relay. I have the push button off the steering wheel and can see the top of the contact brush with it's insulator. What I'm wondering about is where I should start with the test tight. What should have power when grounded? How is the relay wired?
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Amphihauler
Looking for info on how the horn is wired in my 65 F100 4x4. I don't have a horn in the truck but there is a relay.

I have the push button off the steering wheel and can see the top of the contact brush with its insulator.

What I'm wondering about is where I should start with the test tight. What should have power when grounded? How is the relay wired?
3 or 4 spoke steering wheel? The horn brush & insulator that fit into a hole on the outside of the steering wheel are specific to one or the other.

The horn brush contains a tiny copper wire, when it snaps, the horn no longer blows. If the insulator is missing, the horn brush will not work.

The horn is wired thru the T/S switch.

The horn relay is located next to the starter solenoid on the fender apron. 1961/65 F100/250 4WD & 1966 F250 4WD use a different relay than 1965/66 F100/250 2WD & 1966 F100 4WD
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 08:09 PM
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It's a four spoke. Should I have power to that brush if I ground it with my test light?
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Amphihauler
It's a four spoke. Should I have power to that brush if I ground it with my test light?
It depends on if the copper wire is intact, the insulator is in place and the T/S switch.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 08:15 PM
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I didn’t know the relays were different. I’d like to replace mine and was going to order one from DC or Mac. I figure I should replace it when I install the horn but I’m guessing the previous owner removed the horn when it wasn’t working for some reason.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
It depends on if the copper wire is intact, the insulator is in place and the T/S switch.
OK well currently I can't get any action with the test light on the end of that brush. Should I have the ignition on for that to work? Wouldn't think so...
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 08:57 PM
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You should have battery voltage to the one contact on the horn relay (yellow wire). That comes off the starter relay and is hot all the time. The steering wheel button provides the ground for that circuit to energize the relay (blue w/ yellow stripe). The wire going to the horn(s) is yellow w/ green stripe.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2017 | 05:48 PM
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AZ66F100
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What Jolly Joe said. Ignore the ignition switch and check for 12 volts at the relay yellow wire. If you have it, then ground the blue/yellow wire directly from the relay with a jumper wire and the horn should blow. If it does blow, then you can troubleshoot the blue/yellow wire, its connectors, and the horn button. If it does NOT blow, then you have a bad relay or problem with the yellow/green wire which goes directly to the horns.

Good luck!


Bob
 
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Amphihauler
It's a four spoke.
Pic of 4 spoke steering wheel, column and related parts. 13A821 is the horn brush, 13A822 is its insulator.

 
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