I have a 64 Ford F100. When I purchased it, a year ago, the horn was not working and I replaced the small spring bushings and it worked fine for awhile. My son tried to install an air horn, which didn't work. I now have reconnected the original horn but it doesn't work. I checked the spring bushings and they look fine. Any suggestions? Is there a separate fuse for the horn that might be the problem?

 

The horn button works by 'grounding the wire in the column'.
The grounding of this wire completes the circuit to the horn relay coil.
When the horn relay circuit is completed, the relay switch is closed causing the horn to get voltage.

Check the wiring diagram in the link, horn relay is located center left on the diagram.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z5sUZji7Cd...ng+Diagram.jpg

 

What are you referring to as spring bushings? Never seen or heard of any such thing.

Is your '64 F100 2WD or 4WD? If 2WD, does it have a horn button or horn ring?

There is no separate horn wire on these trucks, horn works via the T/S switch.

There is a horn brush and insulator, the brush contains a thin copper wire that is notorious for snapping: The usual cause why the horn won't blow, and it may be missing.

The brush (and sometimes its insulator) can fall out unnoticed when the steering wheel is removed.

 

Both the wire (brush)and the relay were broken on mine
Ck that you have 12v at relay then ck continuity at the horn(ground)

 

There are no wires in the column itself aside from whats immediately behind the steering wheel which is where the turn signal cancel cam and the horn contact spring ND mentioned prior is located..the contact brush being located as ND noted.


- cs65

 

schoo has a 1964 F250 4WD. Why he chimed in with his "wire (brush)" .. whatever the hell that is, I dunno.

1964 F100/250 2WD uses different T/S switch, brush/insulator than 4WD. 2WD could have a button or ring, 4WD only a button.

Most people have never taken their horn ring apart, so are unaware of rubber horn ring blowing pad....another reason why horn won't blow as it collapses or disintegrates.

 

didn't mean to miss lead anyone

 

I have a similar problem but I have that little horn bushing and everything. The only thing is that under the wheel right under where the horn brush makes contact there is a little almost nail thing on a spring that I assume needs to be pushed down for the horn to work. Is this true?

 

Please, when asking questions, list all the pertinent info: Year/Series/2WD or 4WD

Your profile says 1961 F100, assuming it's 2WD:

Horn brush and its insulator (C2OZ-13A821-A kit) are located inside a hole on the outside of the steering wheel, visible when the horn button or ring is removed.

The insulator is inserted first, then the horn brush inserts into the insulator.

Horn brush contains a thin copper wire that snaps, horn no longer blows. People remove the steering wheel, are usually unaware, the horn brush and sometimes the insulator fall out...unnoticed.

Then when re-assembled, they wonder why the horn no longer blows.

Horn ring or button nylon retainer (C2DZ-13A809-A) contains 3 tabs. If one or more of the tabs break off, horn ring or button fits onto the wheel catty wampus, horn won't blow.

Between the horn ring or button and the steering wheel is a coil spring. Horn ring uses a different spring (CODZ-13A807-B) than the horn button (CODF-13A807-A).

Horn works thru T/S switch and on 1961/62 F100/250 2WD's only, the T/S cancelling plate (CODF-13304-A) is separate from the switch (CODZ-13341-A).

Horn relay (B8C-13853-A 1958/63 only) located under the hood on the right (passenger) side inner fender apron adjacent to voltage regulator.

Notice in pic below that the upper column is 1963, while the lower column is 1961/62.

 

Most common cause of the horn not working is that the steering column to steering wheel is out of adjustment

There should be a 1/16th inch gap. any more and contact is not made.

The happens as the cab sags from rust issues or from bad rubber isolators

Garbz

 

Assume already check to determine horn works. On the 65 there's the 'horn relay' which I believe is basically a 3 way switch; 1 lead goes to the horn, another to the battery, and the 3rd to the steering wheel colar at the turn signal cam, thus depress ring/button which grounds the circuit and should get a toot; thus, important to clean all contact surfaces between the 'horn brush' at the turn signal cam and the horn button/ring.

In purchasing 'horn brush' suggest ordering a couple extra, they are flimsy. On the steering wheel on my 65 there's a small slot where I can place a small/mini screw driver and hold the horn bush down while installing the ring/button???

Awaiting critics thread review, if the steering wheel is removed, seems to me, taking a jump wire and touching the horn brush contact at the turn signal cam to the steering shaft one could test the horn circuit????

 

"Awaiting critics thread review, if the steering wheel is removed, seems to me, taking a jump wire and touching the horn brush contact at the turn signal cam to the steering shaft one could test the horn". posted by daveenglson in 2013.

I am wondering if this statement is correct. If it is, then my horn issue is resolved and i can put my steering wheel and horn components back together. I am sure someone would say just put it together and see if it works. Yes, i could do that, but life continues and i need to find time in between to work on my hobby. So time is precious.

Thanks

 

Just put it together and see if it works. There, I didn't want you to be disappointed if nobody said it....lol.

Chad

 

Sometimes thats what i need to hear when i lack the knowledge and confidence.

I installed the steering wheel and wanted to be certain that the brush in the TSS was making contact with the steering wheel. With a test light i grounded to the steering wheel mounting nut. I then touched inside the hole for the brush, with the probe end of the test light and saw the test light light up and heard the horn. But this was not consistent. I would say 25% of the time the horn worked. Sometimes the light would light but no horn would sound, which i found odd.

I took the wheel off again and tested the TSS horn brush. Once i knew this was fine and the horn would blow consistently, i cleaned out the hole where the brush gets installed in the wheel. I used fine sandpaper. I reinstalled the steering wheel and cleaned the contacts on the horn brush.

I then retested the horn and it seemed to work fine.

This is an abbreviation of what i did.

Thanks for the help.

 

I am working on a 1964 F100 2WD,I have a horn brush insulator on the signal switch AND OUTSIDE of the steering wheel one os missing. so are there 2 horn brush insulators?