I'm putting a different engine in my '69 f100. The new engine has a different boss on the block where the Z-bar clutch linkage would go. My linkage is very worn out anyway and with the new engine i'll need more room for exhaust on that side.

For those of you that have done a swap or just upgraded your clutch linkage, what did you go with, cable, hydraulic, other?

I have the 4 speed T-18 if that makes a difference.

Thanks!

 

Which engine are you installing ?

 

The clutch equalizer (Z) bar (7528 in pic) has nothing to do with the engine block.

 

I only know of three clutch actuation types; mechanical linkage, cable or hydraulic.

The old mechanical linkages are a 'push' type setup --pushes the end of the clutch fork rearward. The cable setup is a 'pull' system --pulls the end of the clutch fork towards the front of the vehicle. Hydraulic could be either push or pull, depending on how the slave cylinder is mounted and how the clutch fork pivot is configured.--if it's a hydraulic throw out bearing, there won't be a clutch fork.

The pivot fulcrum for the clutch fork will be mounted to the bellhousing to the left side of the transmission input shaft, on a push type setup. On a pull type setup, the clutch fork fulcrum will be mounted to the right side of the transmission input shaft.

A pull type setup would require a different clutch fork that's longer. I don't know if such a thing exists for a T-18 transmission (?).

I'm not clear if your linkage rods are worn out, if the Z-bar is worn out or, both?

Whatever the case, you can make a new Z-bar and/or linkages, that are much improved, as I'm doing here.









I still have to cut and thread the linkage rods to the proper lengths but, you get the general idea of what's going on here.

 

Stay with the factory setup friend, it will simplify your life. Think about it; the original design lasted 50 years plus.

 

The nylon clutch equalizer (z) bar nylon bushings (C1AA-7543-A) are available from Ford and all the repro parts sellers.

The weak point in the clutch linkage is the long clutch release rod and its (2) associated nylon bushings (C0AZ-7526-A - reproduced).

The rod has 90 degree ends, attaches to the clutch pedal bell crank, then routes thru the toe board to the clutch equalizer bar.

The bushings crack apart/disintegrate, the 90 degree ends begin to crack, eventually break off.

The clutch pedal drops to the floor, lays there like a drunken sailor. Not pleasant!

 

Wilwood makes a hydraulic slave that pulls. It only takes material to be 1/3 rd as strong to pull rather than push. I have a set up in my 67 XL that pulls the clutch cable. So far 30k miles and no problems. I am using the stock Mustang clutch cable and a spare in the trunk just in case. The Wilwood set up has 1.5” of travel for the master cylinder and slave.

 

Part# 7A535 above is screwed into a boss in the block on my 240. It looks like that "Boss" is much larger on the 1969 240 block than the 1978 351W block. Suggestions?

 

I'm not against keeping the Z-bar. But since this truck had a 6cyl (single exhaust on pass. side) I'm not sure where the driver's side exhaust would go. I know that plenty of these trucks had V8's, does anyone have a picture of how the V8 exhaust routes around the steering box and Z-bar linkage?

 

I had a 460 with a wide ratio top loader in my 68 using stock manifolds with the original clutch linkage from the original 360. I had to fabricate a bracket for the engine side to support the Z bar. I still have the whole set up including the bell housing in the attic if anyone needs it.

 

It sounds like you need the block side of the Z bar pivot for the 78 351 and hope the bushing for it or your z bar bushing will play nice.

OR make a bracket to hold your 240 motor side pivot.


Are you sure the z bar frame side pivot bracket & the 351 motor side pivot are across from each other.
Dave ----

 

The engine side Z-bar pivot on the 240/300 has a 9/16"-12 thread on one end and a 5/8" diameter pin on the other end.

 

Would this work? - 1965-1973 Shift Mounting Plate Kit - Cal Pony Cars


All helpful responses guys, I really appreciate it!

 

I'm not sure of that. The "boss" looks to be in the same position on both blocks but I have not set the new engine down in the truck yet to verify that.

Any idea how to look up "block side of the Z bar pivot for the 78 351?" What would that be called and who would have it?

 

It looks like the 7A535 boss is the same for both Six and 302 use. As the 351W is a Windsor and should be the same as a 302. I would pull it off your 240, and check it against the 351W thread size on the block. As the 351W was not used in trucks, but cars and vans, I would look for a van one and check the size of the Z-bar female end.