Lift Block Questions
#1
Lift Block Questions
Hey guys and gals, I am looking at a 77 f250, and the guy said it is lifted with lift blocks. (6 inch i believe he said) I know generally speaking that lift blocks arent the way to have a lift.
So my question is (since Im really new to this era of truck) what would reasonably cheap options be to replace those? I dont need that much of a lift either, I would be fine lowering it. I have to factor all this in the price of the truck and whether its worth it to me or not.
For the first while Im sure I would be fine putting around with the truck the way it is, but in the future I would want to get something proper in there.
So my question is (since Im really new to this era of truck) what would reasonably cheap options be to replace those? I dont need that much of a lift either, I would be fine lowering it. I have to factor all this in the price of the truck and whether its worth it to me or not.
For the first while Im sure I would be fine putting around with the truck the way it is, but in the future I would want to get something proper in there.
#3
#4
When a truck is lifted that much, a lot goes into changing the pinion angles, drop pitman arm, both drive shafts would have to be lengthened.
Cheapest way would be to buy leaf springs that matched the current lift.
If he used lift blocks for the front, which is the wrong way to do it, I would assume he did the other steps in the lift poorly also.
Cheapest way would be to buy leaf springs that matched the current lift.
If he used lift blocks for the front, which is the wrong way to do it, I would assume he did the other steps in the lift poorly also.
#5
Thanks. I didnt think that with a 6 inch lift, much had to be done besides the drop pitman. But my experience on this era of truck is minimal, especially with lifting them. I know for my obs style truck that had the lift, I didnt have to lengthen the driveshafts or anything like that.
You're likely right about the steps in the lift poorly. And I havent checked the truck out yet, was hoping to do that today, just sort of trying to get an idea of the additional costs and routes that I would have to take to get things done right.
You're likely right about the steps in the lift poorly. And I havent checked the truck out yet, was hoping to do that today, just sort of trying to get an idea of the additional costs and routes that I would have to take to get things done right.
#6
So six inches over stock on a Highboy truck? Yikes, that's one tall truck!
Hard to do that with just one block though. As mentioned the stock ones had pretty tall blocks. They looked pretty "well built" too, so unless the guy told you he personally installed them I would not assume that they are anything but stock.
However, any lift block in the front is owner-installed as most areas consider that illegal and it won't pass a safety inspection if your region/state mandate inspections.
I've had people tell me that their trucks had a "six inch factory lift" before, because they had a High-Boy and it was taller than the other trucks they knew. No such thing as a factory lift. Just stock factory ride height.
No matter what, if you're thinking of buying this truck from someone site-unseen, I would change that to at least pictures-on-the-computer or even some text photos shared by phone.
You at least have to see some of what you're getting after all. Though I'm sure you know all this already, it was worth mentioning.
I suppose "reasonably priced" is a relative term. There really are only two valid methods. New springs to replace the lift blocks to whatever lifted level you want to achieve, or remove/replace the blocks. They are not price-comparable as I'm sure you know.
And depending upon the lift design, I would imagine that most lifts for a '77 4x4 F250 (sounds like that's what we're talking about here?) are going to be used in conjunction with the factory blocks anyway. So you'd need to either procure some factory blocks, or find springs that are designed to replace the factory spacer blocks. Which would ride like an old stagecoach most likely.
Did the guy mention whether or not any blocks had been stacked? I mean, with the factory blocks being at least 4" tall I believe (maybe more) a 6" lift via blocks would indicate stacked blocks. Never a good idea, but especially bad when both blocks are so tall.
Or if just a 6" block, then perhaps the truck is only lifted from a 1/2 to 2 inches or so? I'm sorry I've forgotten how tall a Highboy's blocks were. Or if they varied in height at all. I'm sure that information is here and I'm just not remembering it though.
Someone will correct me if wrong though.
Good luck either way. Could be a great truck, and hopefully at a great price.
Paul
Hard to do that with just one block though. As mentioned the stock ones had pretty tall blocks. They looked pretty "well built" too, so unless the guy told you he personally installed them I would not assume that they are anything but stock.
However, any lift block in the front is owner-installed as most areas consider that illegal and it won't pass a safety inspection if your region/state mandate inspections.
I've had people tell me that their trucks had a "six inch factory lift" before, because they had a High-Boy and it was taller than the other trucks they knew. No such thing as a factory lift. Just stock factory ride height.
No matter what, if you're thinking of buying this truck from someone site-unseen, I would change that to at least pictures-on-the-computer or even some text photos shared by phone.
You at least have to see some of what you're getting after all. Though I'm sure you know all this already, it was worth mentioning.
I suppose "reasonably priced" is a relative term. There really are only two valid methods. New springs to replace the lift blocks to whatever lifted level you want to achieve, or remove/replace the blocks. They are not price-comparable as I'm sure you know.
And depending upon the lift design, I would imagine that most lifts for a '77 4x4 F250 (sounds like that's what we're talking about here?) are going to be used in conjunction with the factory blocks anyway. So you'd need to either procure some factory blocks, or find springs that are designed to replace the factory spacer blocks. Which would ride like an old stagecoach most likely.
Did the guy mention whether or not any blocks had been stacked? I mean, with the factory blocks being at least 4" tall I believe (maybe more) a 6" lift via blocks would indicate stacked blocks. Never a good idea, but especially bad when both blocks are so tall.
Or if just a 6" block, then perhaps the truck is only lifted from a 1/2 to 2 inches or so? I'm sorry I've forgotten how tall a Highboy's blocks were. Or if they varied in height at all. I'm sure that information is here and I'm just not remembering it though.
Someone will correct me if wrong though.
Good luck either way. Could be a great truck, and hopefully at a great price.
Paul
#7
Oh, and as far as steering compensation goes, depending on the truck, these older ones can use three items. Either individually or in combination.
1. Dropped pitman arm.
2. S-shaped draglink
3. Raised steering arm bolted to the knuckle.
Not all trucks have these items available, and not all setups were the same from the factory. I know Ford had ram-assist steering on many of the early trucks, and they were on many Highboys too, but not sure if the '77 would have still had that or not.
But at 6", if available I would think you'd want at least two of those items to correct steering angles. Not just one or the other.
In the Early Bronco world I'm more familiar with, a dropped arm by itself is only good for up to 3.5/4 inches. Anything over that and you need additional customizations to make the steering anything near stock feeling. Such as moving the tie-rod to the top of the steering arm/knuckle (TRO) or custom crossover steering or something to that effect.
Same would go for an F250 to a certain extent. Probably can get away with more lift with less change to the steering, but some not so much.
Here again though, not being as familiar with all the nuances of the '77's I'm not sure. Just wanted to bring up the steering aspect. Seen some pretty scary things done to steering linkage to compensate.
I would definitely ask for pictures of the steering box and linkage for that reason alone.
Paul
1. Dropped pitman arm.
2. S-shaped draglink
3. Raised steering arm bolted to the knuckle.
Not all trucks have these items available, and not all setups were the same from the factory. I know Ford had ram-assist steering on many of the early trucks, and they were on many Highboys too, but not sure if the '77 would have still had that or not.
But at 6", if available I would think you'd want at least two of those items to correct steering angles. Not just one or the other.
In the Early Bronco world I'm more familiar with, a dropped arm by itself is only good for up to 3.5/4 inches. Anything over that and you need additional customizations to make the steering anything near stock feeling. Such as moving the tie-rod to the top of the steering arm/knuckle (TRO) or custom crossover steering or something to that effect.
Same would go for an F250 to a certain extent. Probably can get away with more lift with less change to the steering, but some not so much.
Here again though, not being as familiar with all the nuances of the '77's I'm not sure. Just wanted to bring up the steering aspect. Seen some pretty scary things done to steering linkage to compensate.
I would definitely ask for pictures of the steering box and linkage for that reason alone.
Paul
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#8
X2 on all that and front lift blocks are IMO dangerous and stupid as ever. If the guy did that on the front then I am sure he cobbled up the rest for sure. 6" lift you need correct steering components, longer brake lines, e brake cable drop bracket. Rear axle pinion shims....
1 piece 6" tall rear lift block or stacked (2) blocks dangerous and stupid X2 and great way to get tons of rear axle wrap...rear u joint trashing. Power hopping the rear end....
If you get the truck, figure out what size tires you want to run, get the correct lift. All leafs is the way to go IMO.
Here is a place that gives you the option to delete the rear block all together. 1973-1979 F250//F350 4x4 Atlas SuspensionAtlas Spring Company
Skyjacker, Super lift sell off the shelf lifts and with a Skyjacker 6" with new rear leafs, you still have to use the one OEM rear block.
Also ck out Deaver. https://www.deaverspring.com/
Here is an example of what to look out for in the BAD idea dept.
1 piece 6" tall rear lift block or stacked (2) blocks dangerous and stupid X2 and great way to get tons of rear axle wrap...rear u joint trashing. Power hopping the rear end....
If you get the truck, figure out what size tires you want to run, get the correct lift. All leafs is the way to go IMO.
Here is a place that gives you the option to delete the rear block all together. 1973-1979 F250//F350 4x4 Atlas SuspensionAtlas Spring Company
Skyjacker, Super lift sell off the shelf lifts and with a Skyjacker 6" with new rear leafs, you still have to use the one OEM rear block.
Also ck out Deaver. https://www.deaverspring.com/
Here is an example of what to look out for in the BAD idea dept.
#9
Thanks for the replies, Ill try to answer and address what I can!
The truck has a 400 in it, so its not a highboy, it must be the later part of 77. He didnt mention if the blocks were stacked, just that the previous owner before him, told him when he got the truck, that he lifted it with "well built" blocks.
I dont have to worry about inspections where I live. Unless the truck is super high, which this one isnt, at least from what i have seen in the pictures. So i would guess its a 6 inch total lift, not over and above what was all ready there.
Im not buying the truck sight unseen. Im going to look at it in person when the guy has time, provided he hasnt sold it yet.
The ride to me, it doesnt matter too too much. The truck will be a farm/bush truck. Not that I want it to ride like a stage coach! But it isnt number 1 priority.
The tires that are on it now are 35 inch and I would probably keep them cause they are good shape.
As for what I would ideally like, is probably stock highboy height, which I believe is equal to a 4 inch lift on a non highboy. That would be ideal for me, so if y wife needed to use it, she wouldnt have to complain about the height each time haha.
The guy did say the steering box probably needed to be replaced. I didnt ask any additional details on the lift or anything like that though, probably just check it out really good when i go to see it.
The truck has a 400 in it, so its not a highboy, it must be the later part of 77. He didnt mention if the blocks were stacked, just that the previous owner before him, told him when he got the truck, that he lifted it with "well built" blocks.
I dont have to worry about inspections where I live. Unless the truck is super high, which this one isnt, at least from what i have seen in the pictures. So i would guess its a 6 inch total lift, not over and above what was all ready there.
Im not buying the truck sight unseen. Im going to look at it in person when the guy has time, provided he hasnt sold it yet.
The ride to me, it doesnt matter too too much. The truck will be a farm/bush truck. Not that I want it to ride like a stage coach! But it isnt number 1 priority.
The tires that are on it now are 35 inch and I would probably keep them cause they are good shape.
As for what I would ideally like, is probably stock highboy height, which I believe is equal to a 4 inch lift on a non highboy. That would be ideal for me, so if y wife needed to use it, she wouldnt have to complain about the height each time haha.
The guy did say the steering box probably needed to be replaced. I didnt ask any additional details on the lift or anything like that though, probably just check it out really good when i go to see it.
#10
When you go ck it out, have this. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696861
If is a late model 77 then it should have a married xfer case and 3" wide rear leaf springs.
If it has a divorced xfer case and 2 1/4 wide rear leafs....Highboy.
35" tires and a 4" lift go good together, 6" and 37's or 38's maybe a slight fender tip trim and even 40's.
Free shipping. Suspension Lift Kits for Ford F250 | Ford F250 4WD Suspension
Lift versus tires in there opinion. Tire Size & Lift Kit Chart
If is a late model 77 then it should have a married xfer case and 3" wide rear leaf springs.
If it has a divorced xfer case and 2 1/4 wide rear leafs....Highboy.
35" tires and a 4" lift go good together, 6" and 37's or 38's maybe a slight fender tip trim and even 40's.
Free shipping. Suspension Lift Kits for Ford F250 | Ford F250 4WD Suspension
Lift versus tires in there opinion. Tire Size & Lift Kit Chart
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