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In replacing my radius arm bushings I noticed someone had previously replaced the factory nuts with these ‘prevailing torque lock nuts’. Needless to say this isn’t the right nut for this application.
In an effort to do the job right, I went on a search to find the right castellated nut. I never found a part by searching the application (75 F100 4x4). Resorting to doing more of a technical search, I first identified the thread type on the radius arms as 3/4-10. From there I searched the Internet for a 3/4-10 grade 8 castellated nut. I found two different vendors. Fastenal had them for $33 each plus shipping. Grainger sold them as a pack of 5 for $11 plus $11 more for shipping. So about $22 for 5. Expensive but that is the price of doing it right. I never bothered trying the dealer but I doubt they would have them.
Thought I would share as prevailing torque nuts have a way of chewing up threads. So spend the money, save your radius arms, and cotter pin the right nut on there.
Thanks for posting up the info. But FYI even Ford used that type for at least one model year of the Early Broncos. All of them had the castellated nuts except for '77's, which as far as we've been able to tell, many (or most?) of which came with the locking nuts you describe.
Didn't even have the cotter pin holes, so they have to be drilled if you want to convert back for use with a cotter pin.
I wonder if any of the trucks around the same time came so equipped?
I agree, though, and much prefer the cotter pin. I had never even thought of the potential damage to the threads though. Glad you mentioned that aspect.
Thanks for posting up the info. But FYI even Ford used that type for at least one model year of the Early Broncos. All of them had the castellated nuts except for '77's, which as far as we've been able to tell, many (or most?) of which came with the locking nuts you describe.
Didn't even have the cotter pin holes, so they have to be drilled if you want to convert back for use with a cotter pin.
I wonder if any of the trucks around the same time came so equipped?
I agree, though, and much prefer the cotter pin. I had never even thought of the potential damage to the threads though. Glad you mentioned that aspect.
Paul
I saw that in some of the 80’s trucks. To each their own... I like the cotter pin in the radius arm. I use prevailing torque lock nuts all over when the bolts are easy to replace. Getting hard to find radius arms.
Are you sure about this? I just looked at my truck ('78 F150) and my buddies ('79 Bronco) and both have the prevailing torque locking nut. Maybe NumbersDummy will chime in.
Are you sure about this? I just looked at my truck ('78 F150) and my buddies ('79 Bronco) and both have the prevailing torque locking nut. Maybe NumbersDummy will chime in.
I suppose we can’t never really be completely sure sbout anything... but what I do know is I didn’t drill the cotterpin holes and I can only assume they were meant to be used.
Well look... Ford didn’t drill holes in the radius arms for nothing so it’s kind of hard to buy into any arguement the days otherwise. If you don’t want to use them or if maybe later models switched to a lock but fine. For anyone who has the cotterpin provisions and wants to use them, I thought I’d provide the information. In the end, we each get to decide for ourself. What isn’t necessary is jumping down my throat when I am simply trying to be helpful.
Well look... Ford didn’t drill holes in the radius arms for nothing so it’s kind of hard to buy into any arguement the days otherwise. If you don’t want to use them or if maybe later models switched to a lock but fine. For anyone who has the cotterpin provisions and wants to use them, I thought I’d provide the information. In the end, we each get to decide for ourself. What isn’t necessary is jumping down my throat when I am simply trying to be helpful.
Slow down there hotrod. Nobody is jumping down your throat at all. Maybe a PO drilled those holes for a castle nut he had laying around. We are just saying that ours don't have holes.
Perfect vertical alignment with the radius arm, perfect centering without any flat spots ground into the threads, both arms drilled exactly the same... factory.
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