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I would change out the clamps to smooth type and get the right size... the worm clamps tend to damage the the rubber after repeated heat and pressure cycles.
I would change out the clamps to smooth type and get the right size... the worm clamps tend to damage the the rubber after repeated heat and pressure cycles.
Check the hose from the intake manifold to the MAP sensor. The MAP sensor is above the heater box. If that is disconnected it can cause the P2262 code.
Going to check this now. But would you explain “heater box”? Where is it?
A question I can answer! I just did this the other day, see my thread My Two Trucks. Your MAP sensor is in the back right corner, near the hinge for the good on the passenger side. There's a hose from there to the exhaust manifold. Take the hose off at both ends and verify that it's clear, then remove the brass nipple from the manifold and clean it too. I used a toothpick. Then give some reps to Yahiko for me, for sharing the detailed instructions.
A question I can answer! I just did this the other day, see my thread My Two Trucks. Your MAP sensor is in the back right corner, near the hinge for the good on the passenger side. There's a hose from there to the exhaust manifold. Take the hose off at both ends and verify that it's clear, then remove the brass nipple from the manifold and clean it too. I used a toothpick. Then give some reps to Yahiko for me, for sharing the detailed instructions.
the hose goes to the intake manifold, not the exhaust manifold.
and your heater box is the thing that your AC lines go to on the firewall, on the passenger side. (technically it's an evap box)
Richard
EDT:
Thank you for your patience!
So from the back side of the MAP Sensor there is a 3/8" (estimate) hose a bit smaller than I interpreted. I followed it to the intake (about 12-14" long) cover and it was not connected. I suspect since the time of the check engine light and the two codes showing up. Which happens to be from the Ford Dealership so they must not have reconnected from their diagnostic visit.
I reconnected and the codes both cleared. I also reconnected and ensured the intake hose from the airfilter was good and connected along with the others that I had off from replacing the radiator (I Damaged when I was replacing the front cover gasket).
So now I am almost back to ground zero from before my two visits that caused me to chase my tail for the last week.
One last symptom is the truck is now idling rough. Once I figure this out then I'll get back to my original problem of an oil leak. But it was not idling rough before the trip to the shop.
I’d be way more concerned about the puking from your degas bottle cap, aka in your terms, radiator cap. Which also may be why you’ve had water pump seal leaks.
I’d be way more concerned about the puking from your degas bottle cap, aka in your terms, radiator cap. Which also may be why you’ve had water pump seal leaks.
i do not have a bad degas bottle cap aka in your terms a radiator cap.
I do do have a vibration at idle that is annoying.
