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Need help diagnosing engine issue

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Old Oct 18, 2017 | 04:10 AM
  #1  
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nateba113
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From: chicago burbs
Need help diagnosing engine issue

Hey guys haven't been on here in a while(guess it's a good thing as I am mainly on here when I'm having an issue). Anyway I need help diagnosing an issue with the engine randomly dying. I bought the truck about 4 years ago when I was 15 and it ran wonderful (63xxx miles) but has been running into some issues lately. When I'm driving the truck will randomly just sputter and die out. The truck idles smooth, and is smooth on acceleration. Ive put headers on it, 2" dual exhuast with glass packs, it's got an msd ignition and stock 2 barrel. It seems to me like it's not getting gas to the engine, but it happens so rarely that I don't know what would be causing it. Fuel pump? Rusty gas tank clogging the lines?
Any help/ideas would be great! Don't know everything about these old bumps but I'm learning more everyday and know you more experienced guys probably have a better shot of guessing than me.
Thanks in advance!
Nathan
 
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Old Oct 18, 2017 | 06:02 AM
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mattri
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Maybe a little more information on the truck, engine etc?
 
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Old Oct 18, 2017 | 06:14 AM
  #3  
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nateba113
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From: chicago burbs
Originally Posted by mattri
Maybe a little more information on the truck, engine etc?
1971 c/s 250
390
4 speed
no aux gas tanks
 
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Old Oct 18, 2017 | 11:37 AM
  #4  
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My 1st thought was fuel filter. A lot of people don't know there is one in the bottom of the fuel pump so it never gets changed. Old rubber fuel hoses can come apart on the inside sending pieces to the fuel filter to clog it up. Also running a gas tank from "E" to 1/4 tank all the time can pick up crud on the bottom of tank. Which goes to the fuel filter.
Next time it happens remove the air cleaner. Look down the throat of the carb and manual pump the accelerator. Watch to see if the accelerator pump shoots 2 streams of gas in to the throat. If no squirts, then it is a fuel problem. If it does squirt, then an electrical problem.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2017 | 01:41 PM
  #5  
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TeachNlive4ever
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From: Garland, Tx
I was leaning more towards the coil wire.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2017 | 02:54 PM
  #6  
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orich
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Originally Posted by nateba113
Hey guys haven't been on here in a while(guess it's a good thing as I am mainly on here when I'm having an issue). Anyway I need help diagnosing an issue with the engine randomly dying. I bought the truck about 4 years ago when I was 15 and it ran wonderful (63xxx miles) but has been running into some issues lately. When I'm driving the truck will randomly just sputter and die out. The truck idles smooth, and is smooth on acceleration. Ive put headers on it, 2" dual exhuast with glass packs, it's got an msd ignition and stock 2 barrel. It seems to me like it's not getting gas to the engine, but it happens so rarely that I don't know what would be causing it. Fuel pump? Rusty gas tank clogging the lines?
Any help/ideas would be great! Don't know everything about these old bumps but I'm learning more everyday and know you more experienced guys probably have a better shot of guessing than me.
Thanks in advance!
Nathan
Gees you don't say if it restarts back up after it stalls out????

I first though of your fuel filter but after reading more that your using a Msd ign. box, what coil our you using? Maybe the Blaster ll coil oil filled?? if so it must be mounted vertical. If not it will over heat stall out and in time finally give out.

So let us know if the motor restarts right of way. Also good time to check the spark coming out of the coil or to plugs....

When a fuel filter plugs up they stay plugged until replaced.

Ignition system can be intermittent.
Orich
 
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Old Oct 18, 2017 | 05:32 PM
  #7  
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CougarJohn
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From: Cupertino
Cheap stuff first. Replace fuel filter as above and make sure you have a vented cap. To find out if it is working, remove cap after it stalls. If it goes "woosh" as in sucking, bad cap.
We will go from there if you give us more info and symptoms.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2017 | 07:15 PM
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Certainly could be fuel pump/filter(s) related.

As likely as those issues are to be the cause of this problem, or the next one- I'd spend the measley amount of money and a little time to swap them out.

On a truck that old it's good preventative maintenance if nothing else.

If you still have trouble you can move forward having removed some substantial variables and know that you've updated your fuel system to boot.

Be sure to keep us posted.

Any more information could be helpful as well.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2017 | 08:49 PM
  #9  
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nateba113
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From: chicago burbs
Originally Posted by mattri
Certainly could be fuel pump/filter(s) related.

As likely as those issues are to be the cause of this problem, or the next one- I'd spend the measley amount of money and a little time to swap them out.

On a truck that old it's good preventative maintenance if nothing else.

If you still have trouble you can move forward having removed some substantial variables and know that you've updated your fuel system to boot.

Be sure to keep us posted.

Any more information could be helpful as well.
Thanks guys for all the quick responses! It's got an msd blaster 2. And usually it'll start to putter a little bit and die. It has happened at different rpms and it will take anywhere between a minute and 5 to get started back up. I also don't really let it get to less than half a tank. I'm actually not home until this weekend so unfortunately I won't be able to check the fuel filter, I recently put in some new spark plugs and wires and it had been doing it before I changed those. I'll go ahead and change the fuel filter this weekend for good measure. Anything other things I should replace I may have not thought of? And a little off topic, but I'm looking for a little more muscle under the hood. I've got an edelbrock streetmaster 390 intake back home, and I was wondering if it's worth it to to get a 4 barrel carb? Will it be a noticeable difference? Anyway thanks again! You guys are great!
-Nathan
 
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Old Oct 19, 2017 | 12:29 PM
  #10  
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Yes. I would suggest a 4V carb. You will notice the difference. Especially if you dial the carb in to Your engine. I am a Holley fan. So I would suggest buying a Holley carb with "list" numbers 80457-1, OR -2, -3, -4, -6. This is a 600 CFM vacuum secondary carb with electric choke. However the Holley electric choke (same for an Edelbrock carb) needs 12V where as your existing choke is only getting 6-7V. So the Holley choke will unload slower unless you give it 12V switched power from another source. This carb might be jetted a tiny bit lean depending on your local elevation, duals or not, and headers or not. Once you get it together drive it a bit then "read" your spark plugs to see how it's running. This would be easily solved.
The object of a 4V card is to get the secondaries to open as quick as the engine can handle without bogging or hesitating. To help dialing in the secondaries, I suggest also buying Holley part numbers #20-13 AND #20-59. Secondary spring selection kit and the "quick change" secondary housing cover kit. Once installed, this quick change kit makes it quick and easy to swap out the springs so you can tailor in how fast the secondaries open.


 
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Old Oct 20, 2017 | 10:23 AM
  #11  
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Christopher McComb
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From: Kenosha, WI
My truck had this issue last October and it was a new fuel pump that solved the issue. For not too much money you can upgrade to an Edlebrock fuel pump from Summit or Jegs. Unfortunately, when the pump was changed the timing chain and sprocket were found to be shot. All's well that ends well though!
 
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