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Sean is your Man here -- I think he came up with a better mouse-trap for the passenger side (different Fumoto combo). I think the ones you linked to are what I have and I already know I can get tubing on the passenger side one, the drivers side is clear access.
Do you want some o-rings? I'll pop for the stamp and mail you the ones off my block drains and the ones that were supposed to be correct for the Fumoto install. Personally, since these should never have to come out, I'd thread lock/seal them as well...
PM me your address and I'll send 'em along...
BTW: there also is the F108S - shorter nipple...
Edit #2 I think what Sean found for the passenger side was the F108SX - so you could drop down versus run a tube over your starter...
My starter bolts were tight too. You know, you do a vid and everyone’s a critic.
I’m going to get picky here, even though maybe no one has failures. The Fumoto valves are set up for the fiber gaskets. If you look at the original plugs they include the washer and a not round sealing o-ring. This is how any ORB fittings are designed. You could add a thin washer so the o-ring is not stretched and abraided when installed, and maybe why your mechanic stated he had failures. Then add the correct what-ever-shape-they-want-to-call-it or x-ring.
I am no fan of the valves in the block drain holes. Any size restriction drastically reduces the flow out of the block and there is likely plenty of larger sized debris in it.
I'm for pulling both plugs and reinstalling the starter. Jam a 3/4 hose along with a towel wrapped around it to seal off the lower radiator hose. Then turn on the hose wide open and start the truck. A additional hose for flushing at all the hoses up top. Then backflushing of the oil cooler. Can start and stop it a thousand times if you wish. That starter cares less about water cascading over it.
Weve done 4 F250 6.0 trucks this way and all are still running same oil coolers and no issues.
I am no fan of the valves in the block drain holes. Any size restriction drastically reduces the flow out of the block and there is likely plenty of larger sized debris in it.
I'm for pulling both plugs and reinstalling the starter. Jam a 3/4 hose along with a towel wrapped around it to seal off the lower radiator hose. Then turn on the hose wide open and start the truck. A additional hose for flushing at all the hoses up top. Then backflushing of the oil cooler. Can start and stop it a thousand times if you wish. That starter cares less about water cascading over it.
Weve done 4 F250 6.0 trucks this way and all are still running same oil coolers and no issues.
Best of Luck guys.
I agree, When I COULD get my left side drain plug out (I have yet to pull the right side) the 'chunks' of what ever the stuff was that came out would never have came through those fumoto valves...I don't even know how they come through the hole in the block...looked like globs of grease ( for lack of a better description) and much bigger than the holes in the Fumoto valves pictured here.
I opted to let sleeping dogs lay on the other side. if the stuff is just sitting in the bottom of the block near the drain holes and not moving I don't see the harm in leaving it be. jmho
I agree, When I COULD get my left side drain plug out (I have yet to pull the right side) the 'chunks' of what ever the stuff was that came out would never have came through those fumoto valves...I don't even know how they come through the hole in the block...looked like globs of grease ( for lack of a better description) and much bigger than the holes in the Fumoto valves pictured here.
I opted to let sleeping dogs lay on the other side. if the stuff is just sitting in the bottom of the block near the drain holes and not moving I don't see the harm in leaving it be. jmho
Well I myself sure wished that was the case. But the lower cooling jackets in the block are a lot like our asteroid belt.
Because these water pumps have a 74 GPM flow rate at 3,000 rpm range and is more then whats needed to send pieces up the line and that always flows through the oil cooler since its the main flow path for the engine. I had my cooling system flushed by a shop when I had it studded. But I was still seeing garbage in my IPR coolant filter afterwards.
After becoming tired of cleaning the coolant filter I was mad enough to flush it completely myself. I was dumbfounded with the volume of garbage that came out of that engine.
So I can assure you its not safe in that engine block by any stretch. Its gonna get you, just a question of when.
Flush it, not difficult at all. Cascade dishwasher soap is what you only want to use. The acid cleaners will make you cry. Because the acid soaks into all of the cast irons pores and even though its all been flushed out. The acid in the block is not inert for weeks and it continues to etch away at the iron and releasing more casting sand up to several weeks later.
There are thousands of posts like: Flushed with VC9 replaced oil cooler. Two months later my new oil cooler is plugged up.
no kidding Thousands of posts where guys had to do again.
I’m going to get picky here, even though maybe no one has failures. The Fumoto valves are set up for the fiber gaskets. If you look at the original plugs they include the washer and a not round sealing o-ring. This is how any ORB fittings are designed. You could add a thin washer so the o-ring is not stretched and abraided when installed, and maybe why your mechanic stated he had failures. Then add the correct what-ever-shape-they-want-to-call-it or x-ring.
So, just to make sure I understand: you are saying the Ford Block Plugs had BOTH an o-ring and a backing washer? Like when the 6.0 1st came out, or every one produced?
I mailed all of mine off to Jeff, but I saw when I pulled the o-rings off the stock plugs, there is also a machined relief for the o-ring to sit in, above the threads and below the shoulder (head surface) of the plug. So it has that and the counter bore in the block to snug into...
Scott
And here this thread was just about frozen block drains before we:
it...
All threaded fitting designed for an O-Ring will have that land for the ID of the ring to seal against. If it's against a thread the crest of the thread can knife edge the ring which can propagate into a full separation.
All I have is an example of one, from a 2010 Ford rebuild. I don't know if they said, "Hey, we just gave this guy some crappy lifters, lets upgrade his block plugs, here's this prototype". But it follows the traditional design of these type of fittings. At least it looks like it does.
The traditional straight Fumoto valve was machined for the fiber washer, but I would guess if you used a small diameter o-ring it would not be touched by the thread. But then you don't have the compressibility to index the valve as much.
The SX version was designed around o-rings with a different capturing structure.
Edit - Here's Parker / Racor's doctoral handbook about o-rings
All threaded fitting designed for an O-Ring will have that land for the ID of the ring to seal against. If it's against a thread the crest of the thread can knife edge the ring which can propagate into a full separation.
All I have is an example of one, from a 2010 Ford rebuild. I don't know if they said, "Hey, we just gave this guy some crappy lifters, lets upgrade his block plugs, here's this prototype". But it follows the traditional design of these type of fittings. At least it looks like it does.
With the lack of pressure behind this and the torque spec I'm not sure it really needs a washer like the hydraulic ones do.
Jack, you crack me up! Conspiracy theory noted... I compared my plugs to your pic, and they do have the groove all around the bottom of the plug head - made me think I had missed the washer, but no, it is just a groove. Yours has that groove too, but it definitely looks like there is a washer below that.
Perhaps this is one of those: put into production after the F series run of 6.0s? (blue spring, STC replacement, etc.) I'd probably chalk it up to that versus the: "let's give the boy something nice since we screwed him so badly on the internals", line...
No yet. Later I'll stop playing like I belong in the radiator location of the truck and clean off the plugs so I can see if it's a groove or a washer. It looked like a washer but as you stated it might just be a groove. Why the hell would they put a groove there?
Oh, wait ...... "OK we just gave this guy some crappy lifters, now lets confuse him more while he's tearing apart his motor by putting a groove in these plugs where we don't have to". SOB's.
No yet. Later I'll stop playing like I belong in the radiator location of the truck and clean off the plugs so I can see if it's a groove or a washer. It looked like a washer but as you stated it might just be a groove. Why the hell would they put a groove there?
Oh, wait ...... "OK we just gave this guy some crappy lifters, now lets confuse him more while he's tearing apart his motor by putting a groove in these plugs where we don't have to". SOB's.
The reason I'd have a groove there, is to implement a locking/hold-down mechanism. They just forgot to put the lock part on...
Timely thread although the poor OP has it hi-jacked! I'm getting ready to do a coolant change this weekend and have the Fumoto valve F108 for the driver's side and a F108SX for the passenger side. Didn't think about the o-rings. Wonder if I can find a Parker Stat-o-Seal in time.
Since he got his answer in post 5 it's a winding road.
I'm not going under the truck until I have to, but I'm not sure a Stat-O-Seal will work due to the counterbore on the block. I've already got a swing and a miss since the plug has a groove, NOT a washer like the typical ORB fitting.
Scott, get in-line behind my wife for the "you were right" festival.
