I have a 1999 F150 XL Super Cab 4x4. It was originally a 4.6 truck that needed a new engine. I installed a remanufactured 5.4 engine from S and J eninges in Spokane, WA. The first one started knocking with 350 miles on it. I had it replaced under warranty by a mechanic. It is the most updated version of a 2v 5.4. The mods list to follow.

Gotts Mod

Emmisions Deleted (egr, cats, rear o2s)

Pacesetter Long Tubes Ceramic Coated

3 in y pipe to 3 inch single exhaust exit behind passenger wheel with Borla XR100 muffler

Screamin Demon Coils

Taylor 10.4 plug wires

Dyno Tune with SCT x4 from Blankenship Tuning and Performance

It has factory 4r70w transmission and 3.55 gears in the 8.8.
136000 at time of engine replacement.

Dyno Slip

If you can't see the numbers the max is 211 HP at ~4300 rpm and 304 Lb-ft at ~2500 rpm. Also this is with 87 octane, unknown weather. I wasn't able to be present when it was tuned due to my work schedule conflicting with his availability.

Considering the heavy 265/75/16 tires and the fact that it is a 2v without significant mods I am very satisfied. I wasn't shooting for ultimate power, just enough to lug around the heavy truck and all of the crap I'm going to carry with me. Reliability and driveabillity were the most important factors for me and Lee Blankenship at Blankenship Tuning and Performance in Shelbyville, KY delivered. It runs super smooth and idles consistently. I couldn't be more satisfied. He is also super friendly in conjunction with him being very knowledgeable and professional. Worth every penny.

I'll post up pics of the truck tomorrow after I get my camper shell finished and remounted.

 

Just a comment but it seems down on HP for a 5.4 with cats off and long tube headers.
The larger diameter exhaust may be hurting torque.
Remember the motor is only 330 cu.in and can't put stove pipe size exhaust on and lose exhaust flow 'velocity'. You really need this for truck application to keep low end torque up.
We had a near stock 4.6 in the road race car that was at about 275 HP at the flywheel.
The new motor is a 4.6 with mods and dynos at 344 hp at 5400 rpm at the rear wheels.
Just seems something is not right with your set up.
If your happy that's all that matters.
Good luck.

 

From my research it seemed that once you get past the long tubes, the actual pipe size and geometry matters much less as long as it isn't restrictive. As anyone looking at long tubes for these truck knows there aren't many options that are also reasonably priced, so I went with what I could get. Then I chose 3 inch for a combination of the simplicity of buying a bolt on y pipe and tail pipe I could install myself and knowing it would be very much sufficient. A little over kill but I don't believe I would have any really noticeably improved performance going with a smaller pipe. The exhaust is likely going to be changing some at some point though but that is for sound reasons, not performance. I'm definitely going to have it dump somewhere before crossing the rear axle, probably just before the rear tires if I switch to a dual setup with crossover tube.

 

I got delayed, but here are the pictures.





The chip on the passenger front of the hood is from a small tornado that blew the hood off right after I dropped it off at a shop. I didn't feel like bolting the hood back on so I just threw a ratchet strap across the back and bungie corded the front. It didn't hold up to the wind. At least we found it.

My future mods list that probably won't all ever happen, but you have to have goals.

9.75 Swap from my parts truck with a 3.73 gear swap and air locker (elocker if I could find them would be preffered) and a front end gear swapped to match with air locker (rear disc brake swap at same time)

Full on board air system with 10 gallon capacity at 150psi with 2 100% duty cycle 12 volt air compressors

Ranch Hand Front and Rear Bumpers

Cables ran to front and back to run receiver hitch winch and/or jumper cables

Expedition bucket seat swap so I can build my center console for my emergency equipment.

Full emergency equipment install for 360° visibility

Limo tint on camper shell with some light tint on truck Windows

Custom locking mechanism for camper shell

Light bars on sides and back of camper shell for scene lighting

Front light bar

A pillar spotlights

Air springs for rear

Custom version of decked truck bed storage system

Recessed led bumper reverse lights

Upgraded speakers to use with stock head unit

Factory power windows and power lock setup

Manual tow mirrors (or power if I get the locks and Windows in first since I'm going to use factory power equipment door panels that will have mirror controls)

Rocker Panel replacement (that will be quite soon)

Custom built frame mount side steps (rock sliders if you will)

Custom built full frame skid plates

This is all I can think of at this time and is in no particular order. I know if I did all this I would have WAYYYYY more money in it than it is worth, but as long as I keep the rust away I don't care to keep rebuilding this truck.

 

the new coil is not COPS ? It looks like individual wires ?

 

Since it originally was a 4.6 it had the coil packs and wires. I didn't want to mess with swapping the harness so I mounted the coils to firewall and ran with them. A whole lot cheaper than high quality cops also.